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Anyone has pics of where the oil port is in the DOHC head?
I want to install a oil pressure gauge but want to minimize the time spent out in the cold
Any pics would be great to I'll know where to look.
Thanks

anyone?

drivers side rear.

I figured that much but there is a few (3?) screws that I can feel.
Which one is it?
I did not remove the strut bar yet so I cant get a clear view.
It sucks working out in the cold

There used to be great pics of the DOHC head in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=65778

Unfortunately the pics aren't there now. You could try PMing the guy who posted them. You will see his posts in the thread.

Good Luck

yup i saw that thread but the posts are way back from 05

There's a thread in the forced induction forum about guys taking oil feed from the head. I think there is 2 ports and you take it from the one closer to the valve cover. The plug will either be a freeze plug, allen screw or square. I happened to have the square plug. I hammered in a flat head screw driver to turn it.

The plugs are on the end of the head, i.e. the head has 4 sides, the longer sides have the intake/exhaust manifolds, the shorter sides have the cam gear and the shorter side opposite of the cam gear is where the 2 plugs are for the two oil galleys. They have to drill the hole into the side of the head to form the oil galley, then they cap it off to keep the oil in.

If it has the pressed in freeze plug, then there are NO threads to screw the sensor into. Forget about tapping threads, unless you plan on pulling the head off, so you can thoroughly flush all the metal particles out of the oil galley that will destroy your motor if you leave any behind.

If its a screwed in plug with the square hole, visit the hardware store get a square drift key of the right size and put it in and fit a wrench on the drift key and turn.

Use Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant, I've had an electric oil pressure gauge for years, on a "T" with the OEM sensor. I have redone it several times, because it kept leaking, the Permatex has been the only thing I've found that stops the leaks permanently.

Keep in mind, the cylinder head gasket has a restricter in it, to keep the majority of volume of oil in the galleys/bearings of the faster turning higher load crank and rods. The oil pressure in the head, where you want to tap it, will always be lower than the block, as much as half of that in the block.

Consider using the port in the block, its a 3/8" NPT port, you'll need an adapter to the size of your sensor, most aftermarket sensors are 1/4" NPT. Try to find a steel or stainless steel adapter over the more common brass/bronze, steel will expand contract at a much closer rate to the block, and thus be less likely to leak.

Here's where Rick is talking about


The top hole on the left is where I have always tapped into


That is a 95 head with the pressed in plugs. I think the newer heads have the plugs screwed in with a square recess. I took the one out of a 2.4 head with a flat head screwdriver.

Here is the Darrell Cox head I got from Sgt.Craig. Disregard the leaking fitting. I've got the stuff to change it to -3an braided line.


And from the end


hmmm, i just noticed almost all the numbers match on the two except for the 2R and 3R. Anybody know what those mean?

thanks everyone!!