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 Post subject: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:32 am 
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Ok when you attemp a radiator flush you want to do it in these exact steps to be done correctly, im not responsible for people getting burned from this post, in all the years ive done radiator flushes i havent gotten burnt but everyones heat tolerance is different SO BE CAREFUL!! MAKE SURE CAR IS PROPERLY HELD BY JACK STANDS RATED FOR THE CARS WEIGHT!! Also when starting flush make sure car is cold, and dispose of fluids properly.

step 1) Buy yourself hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, hose clamps, plastic funnel, and anti-freeze. Depending on how you want to do the mixing you can buy yourself 50/50 or just straight anti-freeze and mix it yourself.

step 2) Put your car on jack stands in the front and open radiator cap (when cold) go to the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator and open it, I personally just pull the lower radiator hose off its faster and what ever gunk is in the radiator will be forced out a lot quicker. Take the radiator hoses completely off, take the new lower radiator hose and clamp to the engine leave it this way through the whole process, then take upper radiator hose and clamp it to just the radiator, while up top replace thermostat with new one.

step 3) Take your garden hose and put it to your upper radiator hose and run water through radiator for a good 15 seconds, then let the water drain. Put your lower radiator hose on the radiator but don't clamp it, put your upper radiator hose on to the engine and clamp it. Fill the radiator back up WITH JUST WATER ONLY!! make sure you get the plastic funnel you bought and cut it to make it fit the lowest hole in the filler neck and jam it in there, then fill the radiator through the funnel. When the water is half way up the funnel start the car.

step 4) Let the car get to normal on the temp gauge, this means the thermostat is open. Rev the engine enough to get the water flowing rapidly at the bottom of the funnel, and you will start to see the water turn nasty colors depending on how dirty your system is. Then when you feel the water has circulated enough turn the car off.

step 5) Go to the lower radiator hose and pull it from the radiator (this is why we don't clamp this side, also the water coming out of this hose is going to be EXTREMELY HOT!! refer to top if you get burnt) let the radiator drain all the water out, if you don't feel comfortable doing this let the car sit for 10 min or so till it cools down, its just going to take longer for you to finish since you are repeating this step until the water comes out somewhat clean. I personally repeat this step 4 times to make sure all the crap is out, but that's just me.

step 6) When you feel your system is clean clamp the lower radiator hose to the radiator and tighten all clamps on all hoses. Then fill the radiator with the funnel still in place with what ever anti freeze mix you went with, when its full squeeze the radiator hoses making sure all air is out of the system. Start your car and fill as the water level goes down but don't let it get to the point where you cant see anti freeze in the bottom of the funnel because then your getting air in the system, if this happens just squeeze the hoses again the final goal is to have no air in the system if you can help it. Then when you can still see the anti freeze in the bottom of the funnel keep the car running and wait till the temp gauge gets to normal and let the thermostat open up and let the water circulate make sure you see no air bubbles, rev the engine enough to make the coolant circulate again, squeeze the hoses and watch for bubbles. KEEP IN MIND THE HOSES AND ANTI FREEZE WILL BE EXTREMELY HOT SO BE CAREFUL!!

step 7) When the car has been running like this for 15 min or so and you still have anti freeze in the funnel, turn the car off and fill the funnel all the way up to the top with water, and let the car sit overnight when you wake up in the morn the water level will be down which means you have successfully taken all the air out of the system. Take the excess water out of the funnel but leave the filler neck full to the top. Then put your new radiator cap on and fill the coolant reservoir to the full line, now when your car starts back up the coolant will flow from the radiator to the reservoir giving you no chance for the level in the reservoir to drop thus causing air in the system. If you are worried about having the reservoir too full its ok, it has a special overflow that will let it release, but leaving it full will guarantee no air gets into the system. Many people make the mistake of not putting enough coolant in the reservoir and when the car cools down after a drive the water level will go low and eventually suck air in the system.

I didn't see any How to on this so i figured give it a shot, i know the coolant system is pretty simple but some people may not know the correct way to flush a system. They may think just draining the radiator from the drain valve and filling it back up again is enough when it can cause problems down the road.

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Last edited by rev9fan1 on Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:02 am 
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rev9fan1 wrote:
step 4) Turn your heat on full blast and let the car get to normal on the temp gauge, this means the thermostat is open. The reason for the heat being on is so your heater core gets cleaned too.


Turning the heat to max is important on vehicles that have a valve that regulates flow through the heater core, but neons have flow through the heater core all the time. Heat is regulated through the blend doors.

Good how-to. Thanks for posting!

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:37 am 
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sticky? lol

good post tho :good:

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 2:56 pm 
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rev9fan1 wrote:

step 2) Put your car on jack stands in the front and open radiator cap (when cold) go to the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator and open it, I personally just pull the lower radiator hose off its faster and what ever gunk is in the radiator will be forced out a lot quicker. Take the radiator hoses completely off, take the new lower radiator hose and clamp to the engine leave it this way through the whole process, then take upper radiator hose and clamp it to just the radiator, while up top replace thermostat with new one.


Other than for easier access to the lower radiator hose and drain plug, are there OTHER reasons that we must put the car on jack stands?

In other words, we don't have to, right?

Thanks for an excellent post, though! :good:

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:22 pm 
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I do it mostly for access ease, but it may help bring the air bubbles up from the heater core, water pockets in the engine, and hoses, faster but im just speculating.

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1998 R/T Mopar pcm
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Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


Last edited by rev9fan1 on Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:23 pm 
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sandstone wrote:
rev9fan1 wrote:
step 4) Turn your heat on full blast and let the car get to normal on the temp gauge, this means the thermostat is open. The reason for the heat being on is so your heater core gets cleaned too.


Turning the heat to max is important on vehicles that have a valve that regulates flow through the heater core, but neons have flow through the heater core all the time. Heat is regulated through the blend doors.

Good how-to. Thanks for posting!


Something new i learned thanks for that ill change it. :good:

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1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:26 pm 
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forgot to mention if anyone else has any other input or ideas i missed feel free to tell me and ill change it... :scratch:

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1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:14 am 
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no one else has anything to add???

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1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:21 am 
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rev9fan1 wrote:
no one else has anything to add???


I'd just add that when mixing coolant, it's important to use only DISTILLED WATER, not tap water. Tap water can contain minerals which form deposits in the cooling system and cause it to clog.

Here's a related article on radiator/hose replacement:

http://www.allpar.com/neon/radiator.html

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:57 am 
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This is great thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 4:26 pm 
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sandstone wrote:
rev9fan1 wrote:
no one else has anything to add???


I'd just add that when mixing coolant, it's important to use only DISTILLED WATER, not tap water. Tap water can contain minerals which form deposits in the cooling system and cause it to clog.

Here's a related article on radiator/hose replacement:

http://www.allpar.com/neon/radiator.html


yea that's why when i said use what ever mix you want, like me i dont mind using tap only because i flush my coolant 2 times a year or maybe more, i should probably still use distilled :dunno: but you are right you can extend the life of every part of you coolant system by using distilled water....good advice though :good:

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If neons suck so bad why did i just beat you?!?!
1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 4:50 pm 
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Never used distilled water....never had a problem, I don't think any techs at the shop use distilled water either...just kinda seems like something that is more of a personal preference than anything, to every one there own.

But regardless decent writeup.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 1:09 am 
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yea maybe my first sticky??? ::hint:: :grin:

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1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:35 pm 
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A few things prevent this being a sticky worthy (in my opinion).
You failed to mention that there is a coolant drain plug in the back of the block. Removing it to drain the coolant in the water jackets around the cylinders can't hurt.
Any water used in flushing will not completely drain out thereby diluting what you thought was a 50/50 mixture. Water from a hose is tap water, not distilled water. That may be inconsequential but I wonder what those that insist on distilled water think about that.
Neons are a little more complicated than doing a flush the way it was done back when I had my '70 Dart. What about removing the fans to get access to the lower hose clamp?
How can you be sure the flush gets into the heater core?

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:46 pm 
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alpinegreenneon wrote:
A few things prevent this being a sticky worthy (in my opinion).
You failed to mention that there is a coolant drain plug in the back of the block. Removing it to drain the coolant in the water jackets around the cylinders can't hurt.
Any water used in flushing will not completely drain out thereby diluting what you thought was a 50/50 mixture. Water from a hose is tap water, not distilled water. That may be inconsequential but I wonder what those that insist on distilled water think about that.
Neons are a little more complicated than doing a flush the way it was done back when I had my '70 Dart. What about removing the fans to get access to the lower hose clamp?
How can you be sure the flush gets into the heater core?


never did think about all that.... :scratch: why do you have to remove the fans for a hose clamp?? Where is that drain located exactly behind the motor, what does it look like? and just so i know for future reference, how much water do you think might be left in the engine from flushing? and as far as the heater core, if you run the car long enough and get it hot doesn't it circulate through???

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1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 6:05 pm 
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rev9fan1 wrote:
Where is that drain located exactly behind the motor, what does it look like???


It's a hex-head plug near the oil pressure switch.


rev9fan1 wrote:
and as far as the heater core, if you run the car long enough and get it hot doesn't it circulate through???


I believe that the coolant circulates through the heater core any time the water pump is turning, whether the engine is hot or cold.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:47 pm 
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This can be an alternative way to flush the cooling system which does not involve hot coolant. Ideally best done this way outside in the driveway, on jack stands, and close enough to an air compressor for the air hose to reach.
The stock hose clamp for the lower hose can only be removed with the fans removed since that is the way the clamp is installed at the factory (clamp ears on top). If you have the fans removed and both hoses off, removing the radiator is just a few more bolts. Flushing the radiator out of the car with a hose couldn't be easier. Compressed air and leaving it in the sun should remove most of the excess water.
With the drain plug removed from the back of the block, more of the coolant can be flushed and the hose can be run through each opening, the thermostat housing, the lower hose, and through the drain plug. All followed by lots of compressed air.
I disconnect the heater hoses at the metal lines, then run a hose through each rubber hose so water flows in both directions. Lots of compressed air till it comes out dry.
This is just my way (yes, I get wet), not from any service manual. There's probably those who think it's overkill. I'm open to more discussion and maybe then a possible sticky.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 12:30 am 
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alpinegreenneon wrote:
This can be an alternative way to flush the cooling system which does not involve hot coolant. Ideally best done this way outside in the driveway, on jack stands, and close enough to an air compressor for the air hose to reach.
The stock hose clamp for the lower hose can only be removed with the fans removed since that is the way the clamp is installed at the factory (clamp ears on top). If you have the fans removed and both hoses off, removing the radiator is just a few more bolts. Flushing the radiator out of the car with a hose couldn't be easier. Compressed air and leaving it in the sun should remove most of the excess water.
With the drain plug removed from the back of the block, more of the coolant can be flushed and the hose can be run through each opening, the thermostat housing, the lower hose, and through the drain plug. All followed by lots of compressed air.
I disconnect the heater hoses at the metal lines, then run a hose through each rubber hose so water flows in both directions. Lots of compressed air till it comes out dry.
This is just my way (yes, I get wet), not from any service manual. There's probably those who think it's overkill. I'm open to more discussion and maybe then a possible sticky.

That is very thorough and good :good: but my way was just a more user friendly way of doing it, by making the water pump your best friend :grin:. Your way is good to do once every 4 years or so, as far as using compressed air, not everyone has an air compressor. Do you think there is enough water left in the block and heater core to dilute the mix of 50/50 and make a difference? im not being smart im asking seriously, cause if thats true then maybe you can use just STRAIGHT antifreeze with my way?

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If neons suck so bad why did i just beat you?!?!
1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:22 am 
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rev9fan1 wrote:
Do you think there is enough water left in the block and heater core to dilute the mix of 50/50 and make a difference??


No. In any case, I always check the coolant's concentration with a hydrometer, which usually also is calibrated to show boiling and freezing points of the coolant. Coolant testing hydrometers are available at all auto parts stores and most discount stores (WalMart) for just a few bucks.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:36 am 
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yea i dont even have one of those yet lol

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1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:05 am 
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rev9fan1 wrote:

... maybe you can use just STRAIGHT antifreeze with my way?


100& antifreeze is not a good idea. At least 30% should be water. Might want to google that and see what problems that would cause.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 550AAOR81j

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 10:44 am 
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oh no yes i know what problems 100% can cause, i was referring to when you said the way i do coolant flushes is diluting the 50/50 mix. So i was saying do you think its enough to use %100?

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If neons suck so bad why did i just beat you?!?!
1998 R/T Mopar pcm
lowering springs/ES bushings(1.75in drop)
Iceman CAI w/ Indy intake and 55mm TB
Long tube headers-no cat-cherry bomb-thrush welded
2004 Dodge SRT4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNXGmWA5wz8


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 5:30 pm 
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sandstone wrote:
rev9fan1 wrote:
Where is that drain located exactly behind the motor, what does it look like???


It's a hex-head plug near the oil pressure switch.


rev9fan1 wrote:
and as far as the heater core, if you run the car long enough and get it hot doesn't it circulate through???


I believe that the coolant circulates through the heater core any time the water pump is turning, whether the engine is hot or cold.




does anyone have a photo of said hex,as i dont have a manual at the mo' and gonna change mine soon,so would be handy :bye:


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 5:55 pm 
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Will this also get all the hose water out of the engine / heater core? I have read that there will still be some in there and adding in 50/50 premix will actually make it less than 50/50. Is there an engine block drain?


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:33 pm 
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protivakid wrote:
Is there an engine block drain?



Yes. It's a hex-head plug near the oil pressure switch.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:36 pm 
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[quote="protivakid"]Will this also get all the hose water out of the engine / heater core? I have read that there will still be some in there and adding in 50/50 premix will actually make it less than 50/50. [quote]

Some hose water will remain in the block after a flush. I always check the coolant's concentration with a hydrometer, which usually also is calibrated to show boiling and freezing points of the coolant. Coolant testing hydrometers are available at all auto parts stores and most discount stores (WalMart) for just a few bucks.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:50 pm 
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Location: Wadsworth Ohio
alpinegreenneon wrote:
I disconnect the heater hoses at the metal lines, then run a hose through each rubber hose so water flows in both directions. Lots of compressed air till it comes out dry.
This is just my way (yes, I get wet), not from any service manual. There's probably those who think it's overkill.


You may have to carefully cut the hoses to get them off, depending on how stubborn they are. If gently trying to twist them doesn't work, I break out the knife. Hoses are easier than heater cores to replace. But the hoses should probably be replaced anyways, if you suspect they are the originals.

Just as reference:
alpinegreenneon wrote:
How can you be sure the flush gets into the heater core?


You would know there isn't trapped air, if you are getting heat from the HVAC, and both lines are hot. But it is something to consider and check when flushing. Sometimes we tend to forget those little details.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:38 pm 
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Whats the best way to clean the coolant reservoir? Mine looks pretty grimey inside.


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:42 pm 
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This is a little late, but i want to mention this~ Letting the car sit overnight with the cap off will not get all the air out of the system. Especially when there is'nt time for that.
A good way to burp the system is to let the engine run for awhile after the t-stat has opened, then top it off and put the cap on. After verifying that the overflow bottle is at least half full, bring the rpms up to about 2500-3000 for about a minute, then let it idle for about a minute, repeat several more times. The higher rpms creates a strong enough flow to push what air is left thru the overflow and the system will suck in coolant after the air is pushed out into the overflow bottle. Double check the coolant level in the overflow bottle when you're all done, ensure that it is aleast half full.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:10 pm 
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What I have done to clean the coolant reservoir is remove it, fill it a few different solvents and a handful of ball bearings, and shake it vigorously. Then I used water and liquid soap with the ball bearings. Finally I took out the ball bearings and did a thorough rinse with plain water. If I remember correctly, the solvents were engine degreaser and carburetor cleaner.

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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 3:42 am 
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alpinegreenneon wrote:
What I have done to clean the coolant reservoir is remove it, fill it a few different solvents and a handful of ball bearings, and shake it vigorously. Then I used water and liquid soap with the ball bearings. Finally I took out the ball bearings and did a thorough rinse with plain water. If I remember correctly, the solvents were engine degreaser and carburetor cleaner.


I used crushed ice mixed with Purple Power ( or 409 or something similar ) to clean dirty coolant reservoirs. The crushed ice is abrasive enough that agitating the reservoir causes the ice to scour the inside.

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1997 Plymouth neon expresso
1988 Dodge Power Ram
1984 Dodge RamCharger
1996 Jeep Cherokee
1999 Jeep Cherokee


And the people bowed and prayed to the neon god they made.
-Simon and Garfunkel, "The Sound of Silence"


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 Post subject: Re: COOLANT FLUSH HOW TO
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:23 am 
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sandstone wrote:
alpinegreenneon wrote:
What I have done to clean the coolant reservoir is remove it, fill it a few different solvents and a handful of ball bearings, and shake it vigorously. Then I used water and liquid soap with the ball bearings. Finally I took out the ball bearings and did a thorough rinse with plain water. If I remember correctly, the solvents were engine degreaser and carburetor cleaner.


I used crushed ice mixed with Purple Power ( or 409 or something similar ) to clean dirty coolant reservoirs. The crushed ice is abrasive enough that agitating the reservoir causes the ice to scour the inside.


This sounds great and I don't have to drive out to get anything.


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