See Also:
How Stuff Works: Camshafts
Camshaft Terminology
Single Cam
95 SOHC: The SOHC engine originally came with a 4667667 cam that had 12 lobes with two narrow ones (.450") and one wide one (.690") between each journal. The lift at the intake lobes (narrow ones) was about .190" to .200" and about .170" to .180" on the exhaust lobes (wide ones). There is no identification on these cams other than the six pairs of two lines stamped in the outer diameter of the flange that's right behind the back journal.
However, Chrysler put a different cam in the 96 SOHC motor. It's 4777128 and it has about .175" to .180" of lift at the lobe for the intakes and about .178" to .191" for the exhausts. Most of these cams have a series of two to six punch marks stamped around the perimeter of the flange that's right behind the back journal on the cam.
Please note: Advertised duration for all cams is @.006" lift *EXCEPT* for the factory Chrysler cams. The duration given for those is @.019"/.5mm lift according to the Factory Service Manual.
Please note: the 95 SOHC is NOT the same as the 01 Magnum Cam, as the Mopar Performance Catalog may indicate.
Specs for P5007024 are listed as Stock 1995 SOHC 2.0
Specs for P5007030 are listed as Stock 01 Magnum. It is not 2HP over the 2001 H.O. engine as printed. It is 2HP over the 95 cam, 6 HP over the 96+ cam.
The 01 Magnum Cam (Chrysler part # 4884325AA) is also different from the 02 Magnum Cam (Chrysler part # 4884325AB).
Double Cam
95 - 99
Intake Cam: The original 4667917 cam has been replaced by the 4777631AA that appears to be interchangeable. It can be identified in two ways:
1) It should have either 917 or 631AA etched on the back of the cam or on the semi-finished area in the middle of the cam.
2) With the dowel pin at the 12:00 position, the first lobe should be at 11:00.
Note: The rear flange on this cam is .337" wide.
Exhaust Cam: The original 4667918 cam has been replaced by the 4777632AA that should be interchangeable, too. It can also be identified in two ways:
1) It should have either 918 or 632AA etched on the back of the cam or on the semi-finished area in the middle of the cam.
2) With the dowel pin at 12:00, the first lobe will be at 6:30.
Note: The rear flange on this cam is .160" wide.
Thanks to Tomorrow's Technician
Please note: Advertised duration for all cams is @.006" lift *EXCEPT* for the factory Chrysler cams. The duration given for those is @.019"/.5mm lift according to the Factory Service Manual.
FYI: The 1995 Factory Service Manual lists the 1995 DOHC cams as identical to all other DOHC 2.0 cams.
Lift (zero-lash) intake................ 8.75mm (0.344 in.)
Lift (zero-lash) exhaust............. 8.00mm (0.314 IN)
Intake valve closes (ABDC)....... 38 Degrees
Intake valve opens (BTDC)........ 1.2 degrees
Intake valve duration................ 219.2 Degrees
Exhaust valve closes(BTDC)...... 3 Degrees
Exhaust valve opens (BBDC)..... 42 Degrees
Exhaust valve duration.............. 219 Degree
*=@.050" lift
How To: Aligning Cams 2.0 or 2.4
Nick@BlackdogMotorsports wrote:
I dont have a pic but its easy to explain. First is to align the crank. Put the crank bolt back in so you can turn the crank. Move it 3 teeth back from TDC. There is an arrow on the crank gear and on the block that define TDC. Once you are 3 teeth back move it within 1/2 of a tooth back. Now set the timing marks on the cam gears so that the marks are straight accross from eachother. You also need to make sure that the cams are set at TDC.. Remove the valve cover. You will see that each cam has a 1/4" hole drilled into near the passenger (or timing gear) end of the cam. That hole should be facing up not down. Once you have verified that you are ready to install the belt. This is made much easier by having another person there. First put the belt on the crank then to the water pump. Once I go around the water pump I pull on the belt some to remove the slack as the water pump turns a bit. Then onto the idler pulley, over the top, and then onto the intake cam.. Continue onto the exhaust cam making sure the timing marks are still lined up. If they arent you may need to pull the belt off the exhaust cam and adjust the exhaust gear a bit to match. Once you have that set move it down onto the idler swivel pulley wihch completes the timing belt path. Take a 15mm ratchet and put pressure on it clockwise. I believe its about 25ftlbs.. I always just hold it snug.. Then put the hydraulic tensioner back on. When you do that besure to push up on it from the bottom so that there is a space between the tensioner and the block. Then tighten down the 2 13mm bolts. Pull the tensioner pin and spin the motor around 2 times. That will bring you back to TDC. If all 3 timing marks line up you are set to go. I can do it first try perfect everytime now.. but I've done it like 40-50 times. It can be VERY aggrivating and a total pain in the *a#S!d^f*.
Eddy Fierro wrote:
Ok this is how the cam pins line up
and this is how the camlocating holes on top of the cams between lobes of #1 and #2 piston should be when they are timed properly
and this the only real way to find TDC without using the often unrealiable TDC mark on the crank pulley
