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 Post subject: engine removal.
PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:23 pm 
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Neon Enthusiast

Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 7:12 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toledo, OH
I will soon be taking the engine out of my car (SOHC in a 2000) and I am looking for some advice...

- Where is the best place/method to connect the hoist to the engine?

- Do I need a load leveler so I can get two lifting points?

- Where is the best place to start with the removal? I will be taking the engine and trans out together, so I figured I should start with draining the fluid and removing the half shafts...and then go from there? Any other approaches?

- Any additional advice or tips?

Thanks in advance for the help, everyone!


.Chris

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:49 am 
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Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 7:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
i have always installed and removed my engine with transmission attached from the bottom of the car. i just find it easier to drop the car on the drivetrain like they do at factory, than drop the drivetrain into the car. i have actually removed my engine by jacking the car installing a 14" steelie under the pan. oh the steelie was on a dolly. lowering the car unhooking everything and than jacking the body back up. and rolling the drivetrain from under the car.

note this didnt work wit a 2.4 because it was taller. so i had to remove the steelie. roll it back under and drop the car on to it.

basically its the same way i remove engines from northstar caddillacs.

try getting on of those out the top, and back in. b :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:58 am 
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Neon Enthusiast

Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 7:12 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toledo, OH
That is definately an interesting way to go about it. I must be one of those on the side of removing the engine/trans from above, because I still tend to lean that way. At least until I do it that way and decide otherwise. Thanks for the thoughts, though.

Are there any attach points on the engine? I know my buddies engine that he pulled out of his Prelude has "loops"...one on the trans and one of the front of the engine. I have never seen anything of that nature all the times that I have worked on my engine, but I could have overlooked it since I wasn't exactly looking for it.

If there are no attach points...how did you all go about hooking it up? Also, would you suggest chains or straps (no this isn't a bondage question :lol: ) ?


.Chris

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Chris | '00 Dodge Neon • '04 Dodge Neon R/T • '00 Honda S2000 |

www.caughtyalookin.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2004 4:29 pm
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Location: Clarkston, MI
I just removed the engine on my 1st gen Neon. To be safe, I wanted 4 good spots to attach the chains. I would not suggest a strap personally. The chains I got have hooks on them. I was able to hook unto 2 spots, and hook onto 2 bolts. One spot where I was able to hook was the alternator bracket. And the another was the FMM still attached to the block. As far as the 2 bolts, I used long bolts with large washers on the ends so the hooks have room to attach and would not slide off. I believe the screw in the front I attached to was the P/S mount hole closest to the main body of the block, and the other was a screw kiddy corner in the back near the tranny. I do not remember what it was for. You just have to be creative. But make sure anything you attach to is on the block itself. My setup worked for me and my car. But engine setups and engine hoists are different. Just keep safety in mind, that engine and tranny are very heavy for their size. Also if one chain is too long or too short, you can twist the chain to make it shorter, or twist the other ones to make them shorter.


Also I would suggest at a minimum to get a Haynes or Chilton manual before you remove the engine. They break the engine removal process down in an alright fashion. Because the Neon engines are installed as an assembly from the bottom, there are no lift loops.

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'04 Dodge SRT-4 Stage 3R - Electric Blue
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'92 Dodge Ram W150
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:18 pm 
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Neon Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2002 7:39 pm
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Location: Sterling, VA
Old head bolt on the right, grade 8 bolt from Home Depot on the left.
Image

If you dont have a lift, just rent an engine hoist and take it out through the top. The reason people take motors out of V8 cars through the bottom is because they dont have to worry about scratching the paint on the firewall/tunnel with the trans when it is attached to the engine (or they dont have a load leveler). My only suggestion is to take off the hood when doing this, and that isnt even necessary as long as you disconnect the lines for the washer nozzles.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:47 pm 
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Neon Enthusiast

Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 7:12 am
Posts: 51
Location: Toledo, OH
Thanks for all the awesome advice guys.

My buddy and I got quite a bit done today. I had to wait to take the engine out completely because I will be getting a leveler and engine stand from another buddy tomorrow. The 'ole hoist is ready to see some lifting action! As of now, nearly everything is out of the engine bay. I was surprised at how easy the half shafts were to take out...I had never dealt with them prior to this. When we got nearly everything out of the engine bay it made it much easier for me to check out potential lift points. Oh and my Haynes manual came in handy for a few things that I was unsure of.

Things seem to be doing pretty good over here. Who knows when the next time I will get a chance to work on it will be, though. Oh well...I am happy thus far.


.Chris

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Chris | '00 Dodge Neon • '04 Dodge Neon R/T • '00 Honda S2000 |

www.caughtyalookin.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 7:23 pm
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Location: Cincinnati Ohio
the reason we take engines out of the bottom is that its easier to do so. if it wasn't they would be dropped in from the top at the factory. no or few clearance issues and it is just safer. we never have to worry about chains breaking or hoist failure. in and out through the top is the past.

_________________
95 MTX 2.4 SWAPPED COUPE- sold and totalled

2000 MTX SE... starting over after taking 3 years off.


MY SELLER BUYER FEEDBACK viewtopic.php?f=36&t=351814


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:23 pm 
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Neon Enthusiast

Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 2:26 am
Posts: 2798
Location: St. Louis, MO
I prefer two rachet straps. One to the engine and one to the tranny. Then you can adjust them to get the drive train level.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:03 am 
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Neon Enthusiast

Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:52 am
Posts: 43
put it 6 ft in the air and use a tranny jack and balance the thing, if u want to go out the top,, like dude said be creative just don;t use anything that moves or might move and ull be provided, as dude said, that u don;t care about ur engine bay paint

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