www.neons.org

I'm sure he explored all options. He has since worked on other big boost SRT setups and has found the same issue. All of the 700+ guys are using individual coils.

Update:

I purchased a Howe 82870 hydraulic TOB setup, which is what Nemo uses on his kit. Unfortunately it appears that it only fits the T850 trans; the T350 is not as deep. Drew and I determined this after spending Tuesday night pulling the tranny out of the car and taking some measurements..

So back to Summit the Howe went yesterday. I've found a Tilton HTOB that looks like it will work. I'm hoping to find a discount online vendor that can hook me up.

I'm waiting on a hot price on the AEM pencil coils and their CDI box. As soon as that comes through if the price is right I'll get those on order. Look for my DIS-2 price to drop once I have the new box ready to go!

Update on the dad / heart situation.. I've been at the hospital with family all day, and brought the laptop to pass the time. His surgery went great, they ended up doing 5 bypasses, plus a valve repair and the maze procedure. He's in the ICU still, with a ton of equipment hooked up to him, but they think they'll have the ventilator out in the next half hour or so. Thanks for all the kind words from everyone!

good to hear matt.

its amazing what they can do nowadays.

outstanding!!!!!

Great News.

Drew

AEM parts on their way (CDI box & pencil coils), and Tilton HTOB is on order. Long lead time though - 4-6 weeks. I plan to hit the dyno again and tune for power once the new parts are installed. Hopefully all that happens in time to make the IFO race in October.

Monday has set the bar; I have some catching up to do already!!

atleast the bar isnt very high it would be awesome if you came to the indy race though!

Glad everything went good with your father. Hope the rest of it goes just aswell.



Hope you get all your parts and get it to the track again with dyno numbers.

Monday has set the Bar and we both have some catching up. My car is up at the shop right now having some tig welding done (shhhh, 2-44mm wastegates, and a 4" dp) so I hope to be out finally next week.

It's great to have someone pushing you. Both benefit!

Make no mistake Carl - I'm coming after you too!

I just want to get the black coupe trophy first.

Just kidding, of course - we're all in this together. Down with Honda!!

Update 9/13.. Received the HTOB and the new AEM ignition parts.


^^ Here's the new HTOB with some nice braided stainless -3 lines from Darrin at Detroit Flexible (http://www.hosenow.com). I'm going to switch back to this cable style bellhousing because the position of the fittings / lines work better than they would on the 2nd gen (hydro) bellhousing IMO. I ordered a bushing from McMaster-Carr with a 1.5" OD, 1-3/16" ID to center the HTOB on the input shaft snout. I need to create a way to prevent the bearing from being able to rotate on the shaft, but I don't want to take up any more depth. According to my measurements, the fingers on the clutch are 2.75" from the mounting surface of the block. The depth of the bellhousing is 4.40" from the mounting surface. This leaves 1.65" for the HTOB. The bearing is 1.44" tall, so the gap is .21", which is right in the range that Tilton recommends (.17 to .23)".

Still waiting on the new Tilton 3/4" master cylinder, so I can make a new under-dash bracket for it. I ordered / received a couple styles of 5/16-24 threaded rod ends from McMaster that will thread onto the actuator rod on the Tilton MC. The plan is to choose one that can be modified to also fit over the stud on the clutch pedal. Hopefully the threaded adjustability should allow me to set the pedal position so that the bottom switch / hard stop is where it needs to be for a pedal stop. Don't want to overstroke & wreck the HTOB!


AEM CDI box / Pencil Coil installation:







Nothing special here. The box fits nicely in the cowl (man is it DIRTY in there ), and the coils fit right in the valvecover. I ordered the "short" coils (AEM 30-2850) and they fit snug, but that should eliminate the need for any hold-downs.

Should have it together in another week or so, and then ready for a Test-N-Tune, then a dyno appointment, then IFO in Indy.

woot!!

Pencils look sweet, im assuming the new Tilton HTOB is a "LIL" smaller then the other one.

Drew

Good luck chasing Steve down for that trophy. He ran a flat 10 recently and still isn't even close to maxing out that turbo (he's only running 26 PSI). The only thing holding him back is his chassis certification for 9's, and then the boost goes UP. I'd to see 2 black coupes in the 9s.

Btw, that manifold looks awsome, as does the COP set-up. How much did those run you?

Best of all, glad to hear your father is doing ok.

I got the AEM & Tilton parts through Jegs.. I registered my NHRA license number with them, and get a pretty significant discount now. The box & coils were $485 together.

Anyone know how much stroke a Clutchmasters FX600 or FX700 needs to disengage? The contact ring diameter is 44mm (same as their TOB). I'm having a hard time finding this information. I'll have about 0.3" of stroke on the clutch given the clearances that Tilton recommends. If it needs more than that, I'll shim the HTOB a little. I'd rather know that now before I put it all back together.

looks good man im very exiced to hear how the TOB works out keep us updated i might be folowing your lead here.

This setup looks so cool. I'd love to see a video on how it works. Are there any on the web that would show this? I'm just having a hard time visualizing it... I'm still an old cable clutch driver, LOL

Car looks great Matt!

Think of it as a hollow hydraulic piston. When you push the clutch pedal, the master cylinder pushes fluid into this piston and makes it extend. The face of it that makes contact with the clutch diaphragm is the same contact circle as a normal throw-out bearing (TOB).

The extra braided line coming off the unit, connects to a bleeder fitting. This makes it possible to bleed the system outside of the bellhousing. That was the PITA about the stock parts I was using before - no way to bleed the air out. This also removes some mechanical slop since the clutch fork goes away.

Matt, so glad that your Dads outlook looks great. That MAZE thing is WILD. My Dad had a bypass years ago and then about 10 years ago he had a valve replaced. Never needed the MAZE.

PS: Your car is amazing!! Would love to see some of the ultra fast neons in person
S

Perfect!

Yes, very cool! Glad to see people are still innovating.
These type of TOB's have been around for a long time. IIRC, early 90's Ford PU's had them.
Dunno why Neon didn't ... $?

Please let us know your evaluation of the coils when you get them working. Is the Box CDI?
IOW, do you need the box or will the VB's/whatever is in MS now fire them?
Both coils fire at the same time (wasted spark)?
Thanks for posting all the details so far

Here's another look at a hydraulic throw out bearing. This one is for my car and I'm putting it in a 2nd gen bellhousing so the lines are routed out the bottom. I'm building mine similar to Matt's car. I just got the AEM pencil coils and AEM 4 channel ignition box too.

Okay, Len what kind of HTOB are you using? I like the way that one is designed more then the way Matts is. I know with Matts first one we figred it was a joke, then the new Tilton in my opinion and size wise is alot better. But i like how yours has the eyelets in it, which im assuming are for securing the HTOB? and the way the lines run out of the 2gn bellhousing is really nice.

Need input on the pencils as well for my upcoming project.

Drew

I believe Matt and I have the exact same Tilton bearing, based on the measurements he listed. His HTOB has the same mounting holes that mine has. I bought mine used and didn't even know it was a Tilton at 1st. I was told by Terry that the 2nd gen bellhousing was stronger. It looks like it has better structural webbing inside, and no big hole on the top. I'm making a billet bracket and spacer to mount it using a couple of the bosses cast into the bellhousing. Maybe I could make extra, if its not too difficult. I plan to run steel brake line from the master cylinder to the trans, and then flex line into the bellhousing.

I'm gonna use the AEM coils mostly to get increased spark, and to keep the heat away from the coils. My turbo would be sitting real close to the stock coil pack. I'm still gonna use them as a wasted spark setup with megasquirt, until a full sequential ignition is developed. I don't have a lot of confidence that the stock coil pack will have enough spark energy for running lots of boost.

Ooh, Len - where'd you find that boot? You chose better fittings than I did - but yeah, looks like the same HTOB. The spacing is correct without a shim under the HTOB, which makes it tougher to make a mounting plate to pick up the two mounting ears.

2nd Gen bellhousing is stronger, eh? Well, guess I'll head back to the fitting store and exchange my junk for some banjo fittings.