www.neons.org

Beautiful car and nice times!

That's awesome. This car is amazing.

Great times mang! Got any vid?

-trev

Thanks guys, it was an exciting evening for me.


.:FoRuM56:. was out for the drag racing and took some video (thanks man) so here it is. He got my first 4 runs and had to leave so unfortunately not the fastest but it was still cool to see the car from outside the cab and it is another thing for me to study and hopefully improve on.

The first run.





The second run.





The third run and into the 11s.





The fourth run. I totally botched the stage so back to the 12s.

AWSOME

Mutha F man! I really like what you have done Nothing like doing it yourself.

needs Crab wheels

w0w. this is AWESOME! just wish is wasnt FWD.

I would of given $10 just to see the muscle car owners faces as you dominated them.

WOW!!! I just read this entire log!!! You are a freaking god when it comes to cleanly fabricating something! You're awesome!!!

Nice runs mang!!!

-trev

Well I unexpectadly headed out to the Alberta wide SRT4 meet on Saturday and low and behold the location had a dyno. I wasn't going to run at first since I had to add some 91 to my tank of 106 to make the meet but I figured I was really looking for some shift points and didn't really care about the numbers anyway. After winning the best of show (shameless plug ) I took some timing out, though I still had more in than when I ran at the track. The dyno was really screwy and the only pull that looks normal and actually let me pull to 7000 RPM netted me 403 WHP and 390 ftlbs with the run settling around 23 psi on the log. This was on a Dyno Dynamics dyno which they were saying reads lower than a Mustang. I have no idea if this is correct, it's just what the owners were saying. They call it the "dream crusher". Well it didn't crush my dreams at all, especially with the fuel mix I had (about 20l of 106 and 13l of 91)


Now for the good part........that 403 peaked at abut 6400 RPM. Yep that's right, it pulled all the way up top like I was hoping. That was probably the most exciting part for me since my thought went in to building a higher RPM engine to take advantage of the 16V. Once again the car is making me proud and even more excited for the potential to come.

Yeah, Dyno Dynamics seem to read real low. I dynoed 260whp on the SRT turbo, trapping 111mph on a Dynojet. Changed a LOT, GT40 turbo, more timing, etc. Dynoed 259.9whp, trapping 119mph on a Dyno Dynamics. Didn't compute.

I also got wierd loopdie loops on the graph, kinda like yours looks, but a lot worse. I only got one out of four pulls which looked normal.

Awesome numbers! I can't wait until I can put down that!

That's an interesting coment. This was the only normal looking curve from 4 for me as well. On a couple of the runs the dyno would load up like I was doing steady state cell tuning and it held my car at 6000 RPM on one run and 6300 on another without letting me rev any higher. This was the only run that allowed me to go to 7000 RPM. And just like you said, the rest looked all loopy and jumpy. I don't think I will dyno on one of these again.

Yeah, left a bad taste in my mouth. I was kinda pizzed, and I didn't even pay for it. I'd recommend Mustang for drivability and tuning, Dynojet for the wow factor. I don't have any experience with the Dynojets which can load like an eddycurrent.

WOW! I bet the look of the mustang owners face was priceless. It kinda reminds me of the old video of len and the viper!

Looking at your coilovers, I decided to make my own. I'm not nearly as good at fabbing stuff. Any hints or ideas?

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=344536&p=2845680#p2845680

Man, I REALLY want to build an intake that follows this general design concept, I think it probably has a lot to do with the phenomenal performance you're getting out of your car.

So, just to confirm, you did use regular 16ga mandrel bent elbow for the main portion of the plenum then, right? I guess there wasn't any problem welding that to the 3/16" flat portion. . . I was thinking of using some more 3" straight tubing for the spine of the straight part, and then not having to do any bending. What do you think?

Also, what are the specs on the piece you cut the holes into to weld to the runners? It looks really thick.

Super nice project! ! !

Thad

I know - I love his work. Like jj07's(I think) log with custom aluminum welding stuff up too. I really wish I could learn how to TIG and own one too. I'm jealous.

Yeah, I've been around and around with myself over the issue of whether to get a tig or not. . . . So far the project of getting the 220v out to my garage has kept me from it, especially since I seem to get my projects done well with my spool gun and oxy/acetylene torch (on aluminum). They aren't beautiful though like a skilled welder with a tig can do.

Anyway, for anyone who may be interested, I have a good friend who is quite literally one of the best welders in the world, and he says the Miller inverter 165 (can't remember the model name) is a pretty awesome little tig that can be had for ~$1,200-$1,300. Sounds quite tempting other than for the 220v stumbling block.

you can buy a split plug at home depot, you just have to make sure you plug into two seperate circuts tho

Oh man, I DON'T want to know that! ! !

I'm just going to assume I only have one circuit to my garage. . . But then what happens if I am checking the breakers to do some wiring in the garage and find out there's more than one. . . ?

thats all a 220 outlet is, one plug into two circuts. all the depot plug is is external wiring, not ideal but it will work

Yup, two separate phase 110v legs come into your breaker panel feeding different 110v circuits throughout the panel. Some are one phase on the left side and another phase on the right, but I think most are split, having both phases on both sides, just swapping phase every breaker slot down. Wire both phases together(not literally) and you have a 220v single phase circuit. If your garage has two breakers, the easies way to check if they are on two different legs is to open the panel and pull the breakers and trace the bussbar/backplane to make sure they're on opposite incoming phases. You can also check it with a meter/scope(expensive). They may make something on the interweb you can use for cheap, but I dunno.

220v is no problem for me. I've already added a receptacle and breaker to the garage for my 60gal compressor.

Sorry for the off topic.

Yes, that is what I did. I guess the only issue with using 3" tube for the spine is that the flat will flex with the pressure changes and you may get more stress on that weld joint because of how long it is. The curve won'y give it any extra support from expanding but it will stiffen it along the spine and keep the flex under control in that direction. I just did it in one piece because I could and it would look cleaner.

The specs on the flange to runner piece is a bit arbitrary since it depends on where the runners are cut at. They aren't perfectly staight so the dimensions will change some along the length. If you are interested I can post up a drawing of the piece I did make even though it may be different for you. At least it would give you a start. Also the pice I made is 3/4" so I could get a somewhat decent radius on the entrances. We have some powerful TIGs so this may not be a viable option for you depending on the equipment you have avaliable.

Sorry, I've been slacking a bit on the log on this forum. So the next few posts are updates from a bit ago.

Well I made a couple mods to the car. One problem was that my current WGA seemed to be coming to it's limits at 24-25 psi. We all know that's no good. After seeing rx2mazda get a base of 18psi out of the Holset WGA, and since I am running 18-20 on the street I thought that might be the way to go. To get as close as I could to his setup I ported out the WG hole some more to 28-29mm so that the exhaust back pressure force on the WG puck which will help push it open would be similar. Unfortunately I had cut up my stock Holset WGA to make my current one so I had to buy another from an HX35. After extending the arm to reach it conveniently mounted on my current bracket and bam, I had a solid 18psi base. :clap:

Here is my newly ported WG hole.



Nicely radiused back towards the turbine inlet.




I also mounted a switch to my clutch pedal so I could use the flat shift feature in megasquirt. It uses the same trigger as the launch control but if armed above a certain RPM it will act as a flat shift. I can set a seperate rev limiter and timing retard so it will help keep the turbo spooled and not bounce off the top rev limiter if I shift without lifting the go pedal. While out testing it I pulled a hard shift and blew out the shift cable.



Luckily I was able to find the one manual 90+ shadow at the JY to get a new cable yesterday. I put that in last night and I haven't been able to really try a hard 3-4 shift since I have been burning off my fuel for the 106 tonight and I am currently running on fumes. I also put in mechanical stops on my shifter to make sure this doesn't happen anymore.

Because of the repair I wasn't able to mess with the boost controller since everything has changed with the new WGA. I also didn't get to try a new tune that has about 6 more deg of timing in it over what I ran last time.

So tonight (Sept 4th), weather permiting, I will be at the track again. I will be doing 2nd gear burn outs, running a tad more timing in my launch control, using a more aggresive ignition map, more boost, and if I feels ballsy the flat shift. Hopefully that will get me close to that 11.5 mark and still drive me home.

September 4th racing.

Well, not the night I was looking for at the track. I was having serious traction issues even with the 2nd gear burnouts which I though would really help. My experience level is obviously low but it was raining and about 15C (60F) all day right until about 5:00 when it started to clear so the track was really cold and I think that was a huge contributor. I also don't know how well the track was prepped for a street legal night after a long day of rain.

Things I tried:

• 11.5psi in the slicks -> didn't really play with it at all so I don't know yet what pressure is best
• 2nd gear burn outs -> took a while to get the hang of them but I think they will be better. It was hard to gauge with the track conditions.
• Adjusted launch control for more boost at the line -> bad for that night. Ended up spinning all the way through first and part of second so I turned it back down. That could be partly due to track conditions as well.
• Flatshifting -> worked great but I missed fourth once again on what would have been an 11.6 pass. Tried it again and missed 3rd but I think that was more driver error. As far as 4th I have never been able to get it in when flatshifting so that may be a tranny limitation and I will just have to normally shift that gear or mentally slow down how fast I try to shift. More experimentation to come.

Here are a couple of my runs. (I stole your format JT, I hope you don't mind.....oh and thanks :) )

First run of the night

R/T: -0.039.....oops
60': 1.824
330': 5.058
1/8ET: 7.740
1/8mph: 94.02
1000'ET: 10.021
1/4ET: 11.925
1/4mph: 119.03

Second run

R/T: 0.456
60': 1.827
330': 5.153
1/8ET: 7.778
1/8mph: 96.06
1000'ET: 10.035
1/4ET: 11.908....best ET of the night
1/4mph: 120.90


Third run......brought the boost up but I can't remeber where too. I need to check the log

R/T: 0.321
60': 1.846
330': 5.227
1/8ET: 7.853
1/8mph: 96.47
1000'ET: 10.066
1/4ET: 11.917
1/4mph: 122.49....new best MPH


Nothing too exciting on the fourth but then the fifth run....Tried flatshift and it definately helped but I missed 4th AGAIN!! and I think it would have been an 11.6 run

R/T: 0.160
60': 1.818
330': 5.020
1/8ET: 7.519
1/8mph: 99.29
1000'ET: 9.893
1/4ET: 11.971
1/4mph: 111.13


Seventh run

R/T: 0.094
60': 1.796......best 60' of the night
330': 5.171
1/8ET: 8.351
1/8mph: 82.48
1000'ET: 10.764
1/4ET: 12.730
1/4mph: 117.01


All in all it seems like I have a consistant 11.9 car which isn't that bad but not good enough for me. I will be back out on the October 3rd weekend to see if I can do better for my birthday. :D

Well, this Saturday (Oct 3rd) is the last weekend our track is open. There will be a street car shootout which I will go in. I should be near the top in my class but I don't think I will win since I know there are cars quicker than what will be allowed to do without a roll bar (optomistically thinking I might break the infamous 11.5 :thumb:). Either way it should be fun. Really I will just be shooting for my 11.5 goal for this year. I know it is in the car from a couple runs I have almost had, it's just a matter of getting it into the driver. I bought some 600 lb/in springs for the rear to help combat the squat. Watching the video it looks like the squat is much more violent than the front lift it so I hope having half the sqaut with a 600 lb/in spring vs. the 300 lb/in springs I run on the street will help out. I am also going to change the alignment for zero camber at about 3/4" lift in the front to get the most I can out of the tires. The 6.5" rims definately do narrow up the contact patch so some 8"ers will be on the table for next year. I am going to run 116 instead of the 106 I have been which should give me room for a couple more degrees of timing and a few more pounds of boost. Heck, if I can't learn to drive through an 11.5 this year, I will do my best to muscle my way there. If I have time I will also give it a quick polish with the DA. I'm expecting at least 3/10ths by the increased aerodynamics alone. :D


Here's a pic of the 600 lb/in vs 300 lb/in. Definately hefty in comparison. They lifted the back end about an inch which was to be expected so we will see if that helps or hinders as well.




This is what EGTs in excess of 1600 do to a metal turbo to header gasket. The first time it happened I noticed a turbo bolt missing and I thought when that fell out then the gasket blew out. Well, this time the bolt started to back out again and what I think was happening is that the gasket melted, blew out and then all the preload was gone from the bolt so it started backing out. I've tried the wheel bearing grease trick so hopefully that seals it up.

Well, my weekend wasn't as good as some certain people with red Daytonas but it did get me a PB. I drove to the track under heavy cloud and 2C (35F). The day did get warmer, like all the way to 8C (46F) and I was able to get 3 runs in before the event got rained out. The rainout was scheduled for today but it rained all day today as well, so that is the end of my season. Gotta love when they have snow at the top end of the track while you are waiting to maybe get another run in sitting in a car with no heater. The worst part is I had a really good chance of winning my class which would have got me $230 to take home. :(

Things I tried:

• 600 lb/in rear springs -> It was hard to tell with a track temp of 10C (50F) but I think they did help
• 116 leaded instead of 106 -> This definately helped with the cold air. I wish the day went long enough to get a solid 30 psi run in.
• I played with the launch control trying to get it to hook -> 4400 RPM was too much, 4200 RPM was still too much, 3800 RPM was embarassingly too low. I was going to try 4300 with less boost but didn't get the chance.
• Finally had non leaking slicks -> 10 psi seemed good. We will see next year.

Here are my 3 runs for the day

First run of the day. Spun completely through 1st gear. The rest was good.

R/T: 0.168
60': 1.821
330': 5.073
1/8ET: 7.655
1/8mph: 98.60
1000'ET: 9.828
1/4ET: 11.675 ...... New best ET
1/4mph: 123.00 ..... Current best mph

Second run. Popped out of 1st in the first 10 feet. Dropped it into 2nd at 1700 RPM

R/T: 0.305
60': 2.650 .... 2nd gear just after start is no good for 60' :thumb:
330': 6.447
1/8ET: 9.053
1/8mph: 98.26
1000'ET: 11.222
1/4ET: 13.022
1/4mph: 126.36 .... New best MPH. I haven't figured it out yet but 2nd gear right after start seems to be really good for MPH :confused2:


Third run. Embarassing burn out (the wheels didn't even spin) and my hand slipped off of the shifter on the 3rd shift because it was so dang cold. 3800 RPM launch control was a total fail

R/T: 0.347
60': 1.950
330': 5.330
1/8ET: 8.178
1/8mph: 92.59
1000'ET: 10.438
1/4ET: 12.299
1/4mph: 122.36

And that was it. A bit disapointing especially because the weather was so good all week and it is suposed to be sunny all next week. Stupid mother nature. Thecar was showing some good power and ET potential if I could get the launch down in the super cold which I was really looking forward to. I'm already excited about next year and where the car can go. There will definately be a couple projects over the winter including a certain safety feature :eyebrows:

Deja Vu...?





I found this volvo 240 in a Swedish site
http://www.garaget.org/?car=18948

Looks like the volvo opted for some reinforcements inside the plenum, hence the round welded circles. Looks like an easy to make manifold, assuming you can weld al.. :)

um, wow. thats just damn good. a+