www.neons.org

Not even close, they were 29.5-31psi! Up to 50psi they go.

Do you know what's coming up by the look of this?














I was swapping the K member and carefully went along. Then when I torqued the vertical control arm bushing bolt down, snap! I was able to back the bolt out a little, but then it just started rotating freely. Awful! I mean seriously, it wasn't even rusty! Right now I haven't touched it since coming home from the hardware store with a M14x2 nut and washer, to attach it from the inside. :(

I haven't done the driver's side yet, kind of antsy. I'll be trying out a set of front struts from an r/t, and rear KYB GR2s that I have laying around. It's probably going to look like a 4x4!

i would have much more colorful expressions for that bolt then flipping it off if that happened to me.

I save those expressions for the tiger mosquitoes.




Yay happy bolt!



Working in a driveway is getting old, very old.



The cross member is on, rust free brake/fuel lines are on, front r/t struts are on. I ran out of brake fluid while bleeding the front driver's side line, that will be done tomorrow. I also picked up new rear lateral links from a 1999 at pull a part. I'll do those tomorrow when I add the rear KYB GR2s. :)

I can't believe I haven't taken a picture of it yet, but the rearmost lateral link on the passenger side is bent in a very noticeable way. Like a frown. :(

Hmmm.glad to see everything worked out. Man im not enthused to do mine at all..but it must be done. I still need to pull a spare set of control arms from the yard to do this..bolt on affair is a must.

Should be better than my car! Especially the rear control arms. Of course, the bolts are seized. I have new control arms/bolts from pull a part ready to go as soon as the rusted on OEM ones feel like coming out.

The brakes are bled, the rear struts are in and the rear control arms are the only thing stopping me now.



Booo!

Those links are in pretty bad shape..mine arent bent at all surprisingly.

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd they are still stopping me. The bolts that go through the subframe area are freed, but the ones going through the knuckle are not. The plan is to heat, hammer and pb blast them into submission. I really don't want to take anything off since I bled the brakes, though I may have to. Looks like I went in the wrong order!

It's ok because USPS was good to me today. I haz a shiny!


If I don't sell it right away, I'm going to see if cam timing will make a difference in mpg at cruising speeds or if it will pick up any tq at slower speeds. Thoughts, comments, concerns, experiences?

Did anyone read that whole story? 180 miles per gallon. These people are nuts.

Mase

It's amazing what can be done in both unmodified and modified cars. I think I remember someone saying that at a steady speed in lean burn, the first gen Honda Insight can hit 125mpg.

The aerocivic (http://www.aerocivic.com and his build thread here http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.p ... 90-31.html) has now been fitted with a different engine and transmission.


Insane indeed!

I've been stopping in and reading every so often and I had to state my opinion on the rapid accell thing.

It's my opinion that you are only fooling your scanner. The science says, under a greater load your engine will be less efficient, along with other things. Extra blowby and friction will increase and lower the efficiency. Normally an automotive computer(and definataly a stock Neon one) will richen up the AFR and disregard the O2 under WOT, but right under WOT(in closed loop) it's still trying for 14.7:1.

What was your measured mileage (not by the scanner) on those runs?

So far I still think the project is pretty cool!

Thanks!

The scanner may possibly be fooled 100% of the time.
I haven't measured any other way. It would be neat to use a car that had a readout on the dash and then compare.

I'm not sure if 75% throttle will put the neon into open loop, I could see that throwing off my test.

Have you read up on brake specific fuel consumption? How I wish I had a chart for the neon. http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110216/article.html

According to the scangaugeII, it won't go into open loop until just about wot. Going by how I've been accelerating, it stays in closed loop.

Been attempting at hypermiling my 98 a little (yes...the modded one) on this tank of gas. Aired the tires up to 42psi, driving at the actual speed limit instead of keeping up with traffic. We'll see how this tank goes. I'm at 200 miles and a little bit above a quarter tank. I was filling up at 200 miles before (26-28 depending on the pump). I might air up the tires to 45 or a little more, it feels like I have power steering again when compared to 32 psi.

The 3.94/.81 is killing me on the highway.

In my old black car, I was keeping track of mpg per tank. Just about all of my drive was 45/60mph freeway. I used to get in the mid 40s no matter what. That sank to the low 40s after running falken azenis in the front. Then when I switched to the 3.94/.81 trans and azenis all around the best I saw after that was 36mpg. :/







I'm taking my coupe up to ohio this weekend. She has a good alignment and without any aero mods other than not running an airdam and being lowered, she matched my 4 door's highway mpg.

1998 sexpresso dohc/3.94 with the .72 fifth
Same alumasteelies/ziez 512s
No ac/ps
58mm tb
hondata intake manifold gasket
pt exhaust manifold/srt4 cat
~180? pounds of weight reduction

Somewhere around 43.5mpg at a steady 65mph.

Since then I've put the grill block/airdam/mirror delete from the sedan on, sold the 58mm tb and replaced it with a 49mm, moved the wipers down closer to the cowl, and found the tires to be ~46psi cold. Back up to 51psi they go. Hopefully over 55mpg on the trip up!

Sweet man! I'd love to find a 3.94/.72 for my car, and a wideband so I can tune it out, I know it's gotta be running hella rich.

I'm driving it to NJ on the 12th, 34MPG or bust!!

GL broseph. :)

I cant wait to get some skinny's back on my RT wheels..im pullin 41-43hw on these Dunlops. 35psi cold.

Just have to watch out for the rolling resistance coefficient.






Made it back from Ohio in one piece!





150,000 miles young



About halfway through I realized I wouldn't be breaking any personal bests and decided to just go 5mph over. Well, then I decided I had enough to still make it on one tank instead of filling up about an hour away. How could it get more interesting than that? I hit some nice bumper to bumper traffic on the highway! So with it sitting at near empty, the low fuel light having already come on some 50 miles or so ago I had to get through this traffic. Luckily it was downhill the entire way. For almost 1.5 miles I had the engine off and coasted in bumper to bumper traffic. It was where two freeways met as well, just to make it more fun.



At one point I ran over some little sand piles, I imagine there was an accident that caused the traffic.

I finally made it to my destination, the pull a part on the east side of Cleveland where I was meeting my friend Scott. He didn't find anything, I spotted a platinum sohc hood in good shape and planned to pick it up on Monday instead of lugging it around all weekend. As you may have guessed, I went back Monday morning with a 10mm socket and it was gone. :(
The only thing I bought was a 2gn '2.0 16v' injector cover.


Well, here I am still at empty in a not so great neighborhood. The car almost didn't start, thanks for fumes! After turning over 6 or 7 times I was in business. I followed my friend into a couple cities over and finally refueled.












You're seeing it right. 12 gallons to fill, scangauge says 11 gallons. Also, the egr was acting up, I suspected something was wrong even before I took off because the gallons per hour would not go under .35 at idle, it would hover mostly around .38 gallons per hour. It definitely showed. I imagine that since the scangauge expects a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio, the neon's pcm was running more rich with the bad egr. Still 543 miles on one tank, I made it. :)

Also, I didn't look it up until then, but the calibration I was using with my scangauge and 4 door was only .8%.

On my way back I averaged about 47mpg without trying too hard. It's nice having almost all of VA and NC being downhill on the way home.

Hmm. Ever think about going mopar PCM for the timing advance? Since you don't race the car any, you could get away with 87 and not worry about pinging issues.

Haven't thought about that one yet. Though it gives me an idea to test a dohc pcm on my sohc.

so far, im getting an average of 42 mpg, over a 110 mile commute, 105 miles of which are on the freeway, at 55mph, half the trip in the morning with no ac and the lights on, half the trip in the afternoon with no lights but ac.

98 R/T
MPP Pcm
3.0 cai
52mm half shafted TB
P/S pump used as an idler for the A/C
no muffler (noticed about a 1 mpg diff on the highway back when this was all that was done to the car)
Unorthodox racing UDP
removed wipers and antenna

Fusion, i weighed that clutch i was talking about putting in with the 3.55, 21 pounds 2.0 ounces on a postal scale. Fidanza non mod flywheel, fidanza kevlar semi-sprung 4 puck disk and fidanza pressure plate. Pressure plate was 9 something, clutch disk was 2 something, and flywheel was 8 pounds 2 ounces. (this includes all bolts for flywheel and pressure plate)

The stock modular clutch out of my 96 weighed 27 pounds 6 ounces, including all bolts, and the flexplate. The flexplate itself weighs 3 something, some im right inline with what your stock modular clutch weight is on your other post.

Today put back on the grill block i had on before since my new rad is in, removed the side moldings, and removed the sways, havent decided if there staying off or not, but i really dont plan on autoxing the car anymore, since i have limited time and would rather get my racing fix with motocross.

Makes sense about the clutch weights. You need to make a project log on here! I'm interested in seeing how far you go.


The EGR issue on the coupe finally bugged me enough to do something about it. Insufficient flow, I definitely know why now! Before my trip, I swapped on a used intake manifold. It looked ok, I gave it a light cleaning on the inside. Well, I skipped the EGR port. It was pretty well sealed up. Doh! If I was right about going for 55mpg, when I only got 46mpg round trip due to an EGR problem, it basically cost me $10 in only a weekend from the decrease in fuel economy. :(

Control arm bolts going through the rear knuckles on the sedan are still frozen! I've just been hitting them with PB Blaster. I think they'll need to be taken off after all.

I just stumbled over this thread... I actually have your original hood on my Winter beater...lol... I lived in Pittsburgh for awhile and worked at a Napa store there... Somebody backed over the front of my car with a pick-up truck, and i needed a hood.. "Keith" came in and had the original hood off of his/your car in his garage and i bought it off of him for like $30.00 or something... I believe at the time he had a fiberglass or carbon fiber hood on it... Crazy small world... The car looks great again!! Nice work!

Been trying to get better mileage in the R/T.

This last tank i managed 428 mostly highway..getting on it sometimes. Azenis on front, BFG Traction TA's on the rear with my R/T wheels. I might go ahead and get those Falken Ziex's all around for better mileage. That and i think my alignment needs to be done again..it doesnt feel quite right. Plus i used cruise 95% of time on the hw..without cruise my foot gets cramped.

That and a Scanguage.