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 Post subject: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:57 pm 
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Read through the archived bedplate sealant topic. It was pretty vague, but I gathered that the 2.0 uses the mopar green bedplate sealant, and the 2.4 uses "red rtv" sealant. For clarities sake, is this what you guys are using on 2.4s?:

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:04 pm 
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Bedplate - green anaerobic sealer
4773257 $30.00 list $20.16 net
Sealant Torque Cure
(Loctite 19614 - if you can find it)

Cam cap - Oil Pump - MTX halves - red anaerobic sealer
4318083 $15.00 list $10.08 net
Mopar Gasket Maker
(Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813 is the same)

When I built my motor back in '01, the shop used Yamabond 5.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Content/Site302/SpecialIssue/02_01_2007/1538Chrysler207_00000001948.pdf

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Last edited by Vitor on Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:17 pm 
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The mopar red was the recomended bedplate sealant and then the green superceded it.I have always used the mopar red sealant and have never had any problems.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:24 pm 
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RTV is BAD!

Put it down :)

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:34 pm 
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mopar[maniac] wrote:
I have always used the mopar red sealant and have never had any problems.


x2. I have had no issues with the red and the green was on national back order last time I tried to get some.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Copy that. Permatex 51813 (51817): Image
OEM specified. Noncorrosive gasketing material designed primarily for use on aluminum, iron, and steel flanged mating surfaces. Ideal for on-the-spot and emergency repairs, or when a conventional gasket is unavailable. Fills gaps up to .015" and cures to a solvent-resistant seal that will not tear or decay during service. Parts disassemble easily even after extended service and old gasket material can be removed in minutes with a simple putty knife.


The link you posted for yamabond didn't work for me. This must be it:

Image
Product Description
Yamabond 5 Liquid Gasket 2.5Oz/1Ct Yamabond 5 Forms A Thin Elastic Film With Excellent Peeling Property After Applying And Drying. Works Effectively For Joint Surfaces That Vibrate Heavily. By Coating A Mechanical Joint With Liquid Gasket Before Assembly, Leaks Can Be Prevented. Cures In 26 Minutes.

Asked my machinist what he uses for bedplates and he swears by this stuff:
Image
Product Description
Permatex Moto Seal 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey forms a tough flexible bond that is highly effective on irregular and uneven joint surfaces. Ideal for use on frequently disassembled engines and two and four cycle engines. This solvent-based bond fully seals within 20 minutes. Resists gasoline and other damaging fluids. Withstands temperatures 350 degree fahrenheit continuous, 400 degree fahrenheit intermittent. When a chemical gasket is not an option, Permatex offers a wide range of gasket sealants suitable for applications on both import and domestic vehicles of any model year or performance caliber.

I have also read good reviews of:
the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker

A Reliable Gasket in One Minute.

Put vehicles back into service in just one minute with the Right Stuff®! OEM specified. These long-lasting, elastomeric formed-in-place rubber gasket makers are more reliable and longer lasting than cut gaskets, and at a fraction of the cost. the Right Stuff allows you to custom fit gaskets to any shape or size for different applications quickly and easily.

Leak & seepage resistant-protects against leaks caused by vibration & thermal expansion.
Superior to most OE gaskets and fleet-tested to be leak-free in more than 5million miles of heavy commercial use

... :shock: :bash: :wacko: I need to just pick one already... lol

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 10:59 pm 
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I wouldnt get the rubber type sealant or RTV, Like posted aboves it can clog oil ports when squeezed out.The mopar red doesnt set until it is torqued between 2 surfaces.You can leave it out in open air and it will not harden and it will disolve away in oil and such so it doesnt clog.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:51 pm 
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Don't use Right stuff, MotoSeal, Yamabond, or anything else on the bedplate. Those will ruin your bearing clearances and cause severe engine damage.

Use the correct red or green anerobic sealant. It looks just like loctite, but a gel form of it. I believe that Loctite 518 is the aftermarket equivalent of the factory stuff.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:14 am 
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Yep its loctite 518.I couldnt find the red sealant anywhere but DCR so i got it from them,had to pay $25 after shipping and such.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:10 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback everybody. I went with the permatex 51813 (anerobic red sealnt).

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:57 pm 
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RTV is BAD!

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:21 pm 
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I am not sure why you guys are bashing RTV.

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:lol:

To the OP use the right OEM green or red anaerobic stuff ONLY (or its aftermarket equivalent).

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:57 am 
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atroph wrote:
I am not sure why you guys are bashing RTV.

It depends on how and where it is used.


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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:43 pm 
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I used the Mopar green on my srt. Works great no leaks :good:
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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:56 pm 
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The green is a lil expensive tho,$30+ last time i checked.The red works fine but if you are ok with spending a lil extra coin for piece of mind then get the green.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 5:55 pm 
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mopar[maniac] wrote:
The green is a lil expensive tho,$30+ last time i checked.The red works fine but if you are ok with spending a lil extra coin for piece of mind then get the green.

With the time it would take to pull the motor, tear the block apart and re seal the bedplate. I would rather pay a little extra. The red wont cure at a near zero tolerance and without air will it?

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 6:14 pm 
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The red cures when torqued. You can leave it out in open air and it wont cure but when you torque it, it cures and as far as zero tolerence. I plastigauged without red and then with the red and their were vertually no change.I havnt had the red leak with using it on several engines.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 5:40 am 
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99dohcneon wrote:
mopar[maniac] wrote:
The green is a lil expensive tho,$30+ last time i checked.The red works fine but if you are ok with spending a lil extra coin for piece of mind then get the green.

With the time it would take to pull the motor, tear the block apart and re seal the bedplate. I would rather pay a little extra. The red wont cure at a near zero tolerance and without air will it?


I know i'm a little late on this but for anyone searching around later the Anaerobic Sealant is meant to be used in areas with no oxygen to cure it. Anaerobic literally means"living without air" in Greek.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 11:47 pm 
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LOCTITE 518 is the aftermarket version of the MOPAR RED ANAEROBIC SEALANT?

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:22 pm 
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Yep :good:

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 2:22 am 
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mopar[maniac] wrote:
Yep :good:


Thanks!

I've read a few posts claiming the red can be used and that the alternative to using green is actually Loctite 518. Eclipse and Turbo Dodge forums...

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:20 pm 
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For what it is worth the green anaerobic sealer is cheap compared to a crankshaft, bearings and a connecting rod or four. It lasts FOREVER on the shelf and the difference in cured thickness could be the one thing that throws your bearing clearances too loose or into the egg-shaped realm.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 4:13 pm 
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I got the stuff from the dealership, crap pricey didn't want to mess arwound with a leaking bedplate..$30.00 or so...cant' remeber took a couple days to come in..

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:14 pm 
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I don't understand why DCR and others have used the red and swear by it.

:scratch:

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:21 pm 
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Becuase it works.I tested clearence with red and then no seelant,their was no real difference, I wrote the exact measurements down but if some one is interested i can find them. I have never had a leak or engine failure from the red.I have used it ever since i built my first 2.0l.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:36 pm 
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mopar[maniac] wrote:
Becuase it works.I tested clearence with red and then no seelant,their was no real difference, I wrote the exact measurements down but if some one is interested i can find them. I have never had a leak or engine failure from the red.I have used it ever since i built my first 2.0l.


Thank you! :good:

I think since no one has offered a definitive answer, only speculation, it's safe to say the red is safe to use.

Seen more than a handful of guys using it in their progress logs and all of 'em were balls to the wall bat ish crazy.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:19 pm 
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I've never heard of an engine failing because of the red sealant.

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 Post subject: Re: 2.4 Bedplate Sealant
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:43 pm 
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BlackDOHC wrote:
I've never heard of an engine failing because of the red sealant.


Ever.

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