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 Post subject: READ FIRST BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS: 2.4L installation howto
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2002 7:37 am 
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Please read through Michael Volkmann II's howto and FAQ both included below) before posting any questions to this board; any questions that are covered by the howto and FAQ will be summarily removed.

http://neon-owners.org/neon/tech/howto_files/24DOHC_conversion.html

2.4 swap FAQ

How hard is a 2.4 swap into a Neon?
Okay lets get serious here. If you are not prepared to possibly be out of a car for a couple days then this is not for you. A 2.4 swap is hard. I don’t think anyone will complain about that statement as it is hard to remove any motor from any vehicle under any circumstances. It is fun as hell though. If you do not have the tools to accomplish this do not even attempt to try it. Some people have done it in 6 hours. They had all their cards straight and ready to go. It took my friend and I close to 15 and that was taking our time and realizing that yes there are some trials and tribulations along the way. The 2.4 swap is not for the faint of hard and be prepared to spend money if necessary.

What 2.4 do I use? Where do I get it?
Okay you can use a 2.4 motor from any of the following… 1995 to 2000 Stratus/Breeze/Cirrus, 1996-2000 Caravan/Voyager, 2001 up PT Cruiser/Stratus/Sebring. Realize that all the common install kits available utilize the right side engine motor bracket from a ’95 to 2000 Stratus/Breeze/Cirrus. All 2001 up 2.4 motors have a lightly different head port and manifold mounting configuration so you have to modify your intake and exhaust manifolds to use that motor. That does include the PT Cruiser. 2001 up also have a different oiling system and different oil filter locations. In Late 1996 the timing belt tensioner was changed so the later tensioner is preferred. Get your motor from a local wrecking yard.

What tranny do I use? 3.94 manual or 3.55 manual? Can I use an automatic? What about the 4 speed auto from a stratus?
You can use either manual tranny you want. Just realize the 2.4 puts out a lot more torque especially on the low end so be prepared to roast the tires. A 3.55 tranny will gain you better gas mileage most likely along with easier launches. There is no definitive as to which is better so I say use what you got available to you and you will be pleased either way. As for the automatics, you can use the 3 speed automatic that came standard in lots of Neon’s. It is a tight fit but works fine. The tranny loves the torque. You must use a Neon DOHC automatic computer when using the automatic transmission. The 4 speed auto from a Stratus/Breeze/Caravan will not work in the Neon. Number one there is not enough room and number two it is computer controlled and there isn’t a computer that can control it and work well with the Neon.

What ECU do I use? Would a MPP ECU for the DOHC be beneficial or is it better to use a stock DOHC ECU?
Use a computer for a Neon! You can use any DOHC computer you want as long has it is for the same year as your car. You can use a Mopar Performance, Howell AF/X street or strip, or you can use a stock DOHC computer. You won’t need the higher rev limiters of the aftermarket computers because the 2.4 doesn’t generally make much power part 6500 anyway without serious mods. If you are using the automatic transmission then get a DOHC Neon computer from an automatic car. Easy as pie.

Will the 2.0 and 2.4 heads interchange?
Yes the 2.0 and 2.4 heads are the exact same head. They are the same casting number. The difference is the cam gears and the cams. You can use a 2.0 exhuast cam on your 2.4 motor and gain some HP. You must use 2.4 cam gears. Do not change the 2.4 intake cam. I will repeat the 2.0 and 2.4 heads are the same heads and can be used on either motor!!!

What's the deal with the PT Cruiser 2.4L head?
The PT Cruiser head has a slightly different (and better) port design, and the manifold patterns are different. The head will bolt right onto any 2.0L or 2.4L engine. older-style 2.0/2.4L manifolds will fit with some creative drilling on the manifold flanges.

What will I pay to purchase a 2.4 motor?
For a running motor expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $1500 dollars depending on mileage, age, and/or condition of the engine you are purchasing. I got my 2.4 short block for $50 bucks for a 1997 model year Stratus 2.4 with 16,000 miles on it. My buddy Tommy paid $1200 for a 2000 model year Stratus 2.4 with 12,000 miles. Depends on where you are in the country also.

Why are you using 24lb injectors? Do I have to change the fuel system?
You can use the stock injectors anytime as long as you use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with them. If you use 24lb injectors you don’t need the regulator but it is suggested for tunablity of the engine to your mods. Yes you can use some kind of piggy back fuel controller like the Apexi SAFC or a Split Second ARC1. You still must use 24lb injectors to be on the safe side. The 2.4 motor is bigger, makes more power and needs more fuel to satisfy it thirst. Feed it well and it will be good to you. Feed it to little and it will lean and blow up.

Where do I get 24lb injectors?
You can use Accell or Ford Motorsport injectors. Actually some Dakotas came with 24lb injectors. Search around. Just be sure to get the Bosch style connector from the 1995 to 1996 Neon. You will have to change your engine harness a little. Get the right connectors from the auto parts store and splice em on.

Will a 2.4 crank work in a 2.0? Will 2.4 rods work in a 2.0?
No and No. 2.4 has a longer crank and block casting. The 2.4 uses longer rods and they won't work in a 2.0. And that goes the other way too. Use 2.4 crank in a 2.4 and use 2.4 rods and pistons in a 2.4.

How much does the 2.4 weigh in relation to the 2.0 I’m replacing.
There is a 50 pound difference between the blocks. 2.4 block is taller and longer thus weighs more.

Will my '95 non-modular flywheel and clutch bolt up to the 2.4 motor?

Yes it will. The 2.4 and the 2.0 use the same style flexplates. Not a problem. You can use a modular or non-modular clutch and flywheel on your 2.4 swap.

Is there a performance advantage to removing the balance shafts?
Yes there is, parasitic loss HP can be found this way along with dropping about 15-20 pounds from the car. If you remove the whole balance shaft assembly, use 5 quarts of oil, and either use a shorter oil dipstick, or make a new FULL mark. Also strongly consider a Crankscrapers.com oil control system to prevent oil starvation during hard driving.

What exhaust do I use?
You can use the completely stock exhaust system from the manifold on back. The motor responds wonderfully to exhuast mods so they are recommended.

Why the DOHC IAC and TPS?
The sensors are different for a DOHC from a SOHC because of clearance issues with the different intake manifold so you must change them. I’m sure you can make the SOHC sensors work but I don’t recommend it because they aren’t designed to work with that intake manifold.

What TB can I use?
You can use any TB you want from a stock 49mm all the way up to a 60mm from Modern Performance.

What engine harness do I use?
You should use a DOHC Neon Harness for ease of installation. You can use a SOHC harness but it will require more cutting and splicing. If purchasing a harness purchase one from a similar year model to your vehicle. Get a DOHC just because of the ease of installation.

What hood do I use? Can my flat SOHC hood fit?

The SOHC hood will not fit a 2.4 motor swap into a neon using a common kit. You must use a stock DOHC hood. You can use a fiberglass/carbon fiber DOHC hood. You can use a CNNP Racing Cowl Hood. A Howell AF/X AAR style hood will not clear a 2.4 swap using a common kit.

Will a Hahn Racecraft Turbo kit for a 2.0 DOHC Neon fit on my 2.4 swap?

Yes it will. Modifications may or may not include running lines differently and such. Use you best judgement. The main part, turbo and manifold, bolt right on no problem when not using a 2001 and up engine.

I have a 2nd Generation Neon (2000-up) I want to put a 2.4 in it. How can I do it?
First off no one to my knowledge has swapped a 2.4 in to a 2nd generation Neon. You must use the right side engine mounting system from a PT cruiser if attempting the swap. You can use an older 2.4 block but it may require slight mods to get the mounting system to work. As for the computer use a PT Cruiser computer. If you have Sentry Key, then I wish you luck because the computer uses a code from the key to start the vehicle so changing computers would be a problem. If you actually do the swap, please contact me so I can check it out ;-)

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Last edited by ShagMan on Wed Jun 12, 2002 9:37 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2002 12:36 am 
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little fyi I figured out tonight, for mounting engine to stand... go with 10cm long 12mm bolts. those should mount up rather nicely. I needed two nuts for the bottom bolts on the stand.

useless knowledge, but saves a headache

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2002 1:20 am 
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dhampir wrote:
little fyi I figured out tonight, for mounting engine to stand... go with 10cm long 12mm bolts. those should mount up rather nicely. I needed two nuts for the bottom bolts on the stand.

useless knowledge, but saves a headache


I think we uses old head bolts on my engine

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 Post subject: a correction needs to be made
PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2002 2:12 am 
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you DONT need to change the throttle body sensors. I have stock sohc sensors on my 2.4. I just had to rotate them 180 degrees so the connectors point down instead of up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2002 2:48 am 
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Dennis,

We tried wiring the injectors like the new way you suggested tonight and the car didn't run all that well. It ran OK, but part throttle response was not very good and I had lost some torque. Things just didn't seem right. So I did some thinking and asking and found some things out that make sense. Moving the wires from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and 4-1 makes sense after all because the injectors are fired sequentially and the coil is fired in batches (1-3 fire together, 2-4 fire together and so on). They do not fire together at all. Cylinder 1 and 3 fire when cylinder 1 is at TDC and ignition occurs, 1 makes power, 3 is the wasted spark. Same goes for 2 and 4. That is why you switch out the 2 outer wires, to the move ignition 180 degrees. Now by moving the injectors down one you accomplish the same thing since they are fired sequentially and are 90 degrees off at teh cam, 180 degrees off at the crank. I hope this makes sense. Laters,

Steve K.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2002 9:56 am 
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steve, when you say move the injectors down one, am i moving them say from the cylinder closest to tranny out towards pass side and then bring the outer one back to the cylinder closest to tranny or is it the other way???

I am currently awaiting my right side motor mounts delivery and then the car should be up and running!!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2002 10:00 am 
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Master Neon Tech

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One tiny error on that Steve , it's 1-4 that's batch fired on the ignition and 2-3 ( if you look at a block with the head off you will see that when piston #1 is at TDC,...... so is piston #4 ( I know it was late when we spoke , after a good night's sleep I can make sense of it).

SO by switching the two outer wires on the coil pack you change the igniton timing around and that takes care of the igntion systems as far as the 2.4 being 180 out of phase.

Now you did it the right way the 1st time when you set up your 2.4 , I don't know why you changed it around.

When you cut off the nipples (ouch 8O ) off of the cam magnet and moved it 90 degrees ( cam degrees ) you in essence did jog the sequentcial Injector firing order one down ( because you moved the injector firing order 180 crank degrees forward when you moved the cam sensor 90 cam dergees) why ?

Because 90 cam degrees are 180 crank degrees that's the reason.

Remember the little numbers stamped on the AEM cam gears?
*1 degree = 2 crank degrees*

So when you moved the magnet 90 degrees you actually moved it 180 crankshaft degrees in reference to the 720 degrees it takes for one complete firing sequence.

(1st) 180 Degrees TDC to BDC.................... intake stroke
(2nd) 180 degrees BDC to TDC..................compression stroke
(3rd) 180 degrees TDC to BDC..................power stroke
(4th) 180 degrees BDC to TDC...................exhaust stroke

so a total of 720 crankshaft degrees to complete 1 four stroke cycle.

Dennis did the same thing the long way , he actually moved the injector firing sequence at the harness to make the 2.0 pcm work with the 2.4 motor.
Both of you did the same things in two different ways.

But keep in mind that it is the crank sensor that is used for igntion timing and the cam magnet is used for injector firing sequence.

That is why when I slotted the cam magnet pickup ( the one with the green o-ring that always leaks) to advance the ignition timing before I got the AFX pcm , it didn't work ( at least not with the igntion timing) it did not advance the ignition timing.

I checked it with a timing light and quick reference mark I made on the crank pulley just to see if the mark moved at all ( which it didn't because it doesn't control igntion timing) I probably advanced injector timing seuqence instead , but I didn't have a way of checking that. ( I do, but I don't want to confuse people)

So to recap, by switching the two outer wires at the igntion coil pack conector you took care of the igntion being off 180 crank degrees ( remember coil firing is batch fired not sequential)......................... and by turning the cam magnet 90 degrees on the back of the camshaft ( 180 crankshaft degrees that is) you jogged the four stroke cycle one over in essensce on the injector sequential firing sequence. ( you advanced the injector firing sequence to the next cylinder)

I think the intial confusion was in the fact that the cam magnet is refered to as simply 90 degrees off on the camshaft , which leads to believe that it is different then the 180 crank shaft degrees that the crank/igntion timing is off, when if fact if you think about it, both are actually 180 crankshaft degrees off on a 2.4 VS the 2.0 if you think about both in crankshaft degrees.

The other confusion was about the coil packs, they are not sequenctial, when number 1 piston is firing on the power stroke, number 4 piston is also firing at TDC on the overlap stroke, but before we get confused over that * but Eddy, how can it fire on the overlap if the fuel charge is coming in at the same time, won't detonate the fuel charge?*

Very simple, on the valve overlap, the intake valve opens up before the exhaust valve closes right.......
That means that there is an expanding burning gas in the chamber when the intake valve is opening ( just barely), the reason the exhaust gasses don't back into the intake is the scavenging effect of the exhaust manifold.

It actually pulls the exhaust out and brings some of intake charge in with it as it is exiting the combustion chamber.

That is why cars with bigger cams ( more overlap) will idle like crapola in the lower rpm's because there is reversion, not enough scavengin going on , but as you go higher in the rpm the scavengin effect is accentuated by the very same overlap and you can actually stuff more fuel/air charge in there.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2002 10:11 pm 
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Ive been following along, and I am confused as all hell. Now can someone explain to me what has to be done with the wiring? I thought I knew, but these last 4/5 posts confused me. I know to either extend, the oil sender wires, or just put a gauge in. Now I remember when the first 2.4 swaps were done they said to swap the injectors to the right, and switch the coil pac wires around. Then I "thought" if you rotated the cam magnet ?? degress there was no need to do the injector or coil wires.

Can anyone clarify this in "stoopidman's" terms, Very simple, dont even half to explain why if you dont want to, just like 3-4 senences?.

Thanks alot :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2002 2:20 am 
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Here is what I did and it works great.

Extended oil wire. Moved injector wires-1-2 2-3 3-4 4-1.

Swapped coil pack outside wires.

And I am using 2.0 cams on a 2.4l so I had to move teh cam magnet 90 degrees.



Steve K.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2002 2:26 am 
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spoolboy wrote:
Ok, so the difference in Steve K's car was that his cam magnet was turned?

Also... you can flip the cam sensor 180 so that the connector is pointed at the hood.... don't know why you'd want to tho. It would be another variable in the injector firing sequence if you were doing something weird.

Just want to clarify for others who are reading along.....

Dennis

Dennis,......yes the magnet on Steves car was moved counterclockwise 90 degrees from the orignal postion from the cam magnet locating holes on end of the cam by elimintaing the locating nipples ( :x ) on the cam magnet it self that goes on the end of the cam shaft............. not the cam sensor

In a nutshell it comes down to both reference points for the 2.4 motor as far as sequential injector timing ( which takes it cue from the cam magnet) and the batch fired igntion timing ( which takes it's reference point from the slotted wheel on the crankshaft via the crank sensor) are 180 crankshaft degrees out of phase for use with the Neon 2.0 pcm ( very important to keep in mind crankshaft degrees).

When Steve turned the cam magnet 90 cam degrees counterclock wise , he actually turned it 180 crankshaft degrees so the sequential injecting order of the injectors would work with the 2.4 reference points and the Neon 2.0 pcm.

See where the confusion began?

cam/crankshaft degrees...........big difference.

injectors.........sequential injecting sequence.....1-3-4-2

spark plugs.........fired in pairs....batch fired......spark plugs 1 and 4 then spark plugs 2 and 3 are fired.

Now becasue the ignition is batch fired ( spark plugs #1-4 always fire at the same time and so do spark plugs #2-3 in pairs) not sequential,............. all you have to do is switch the two outer wires of the igntion coil pack connectors to get the ignition for the 2.4 motor and it's reference signals in phase with the Neon 2.0 pcm.

I think a better way to expalin this would be with pictures showing where you switch the connectors on the coil pack harness itself and how to rotate the cam magnet on the end of the camshaft.
Steve you up to it?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2002 10:27 am 
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Alright. I've been reading and reading and reading, and I want to save up to do this, but I'm still a tad confused on some things. Mainly actually, I just want to clear things up. First, does an underdrive pulley *have* to be used? If so, why? Second, I remember reading that ac/ps is hard to get working but some have done it, who has and how did they do it? Third, if I have a DOHC motor already, I'm assuming that my hood will fit? And that I can use all of the dohc parts that I need from my existing motor, and not have to buy them, is that correct?

For any who have done this swap, have you done any other swaps? My dad and I swapped a 2.2 into my mom's '89 2.5L(originally) acclaim, the old engine died on us, and it only took an evening(which includes taking the other engine out of the donor car). Given that, about how long should it take us to do this? Probably won't be happening until the summer anyway, maybe around june(but hopefully before then), but I want to read up and find out as much as I can before then. I also remember reading a thread about a lot of people who were having reliability problems with their 2.4's, how common is this? I'm going to be using my car to get to/from work every day, so it would be a PITA if the thing crapped out on me one morning.

Spoolboy: What mods were you running on the 2.4? I'm assuming you were running some at least, or is a drop into the 13's typical with a 2.4 swap? That seems too good to be true :P What I'd like to do eventually is go with a 75 shot of nitrous. So, assuming I'm not too bad of a driver(never raced at the strip before) would just the 2.4 swap with a 75 shot be enough to hit 12's on street tires? Or maybe low 13's?(yeah I know this should be in the drag racing forum but it's all part of one big post).

Final question, I promise. To those who have done the swap, how much is fuel economy affected? In Steve. K's sig it says 36mpg on the highway, and that seems pretty close to what a stock 2.0 would get, but given his mods would his engine be better or worse on gas than a stock 2.4 swapped into a neon?

Sorry for the long post, but again, I want to find out as much as I can before I even start looking at buying the engine.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2003 4:24 am 
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for the most part yes, just a few things listed in the how-to need to be extended

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:36 pm 
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I am just curious to hear from someone else who used the CNNP / neonparts mounts. In the how-to Mike said his had some problems but it was most likely their car. Has anyone used these mounts and had less of a pain and not have to cut any of the given mounts? Thanks.
-Dan-

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2003 1:24 am 
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MelloYello wrote:
I am just curious to hear from someone else who used the CNNP / neonparts mounts. In the how-to Mike said his had some problems but it was most likely their car. Has anyone used these mounts and had less of a pain and not have to cut any of the given mounts? Thanks.
-Dan-


Dan, I've talked to many people who jsut bolted everything up literally with both CNNP and TTi setups.

Hope that helps. Our car really had been hit in the front in a parking lot grudge match it seems. We can see the proof.

Michael Volkmann II

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2003 11:35 pm 
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For all the newbs you can use this one or mine the link to mine is on the first post in this thread.

Here's spoolboys as listed below http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/pl24swaps.html

Michael Volkmann II

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Auto response from ACRCPE45 (3:06:14 AM): Confused. I hate Neon's.

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1995 Dodge Sport Coupe - Nitro-Yellow-Green - Loaded, Now Runs & Drives, but the alternator is dead.

My wife claims I officially have way to much Neon memorabilia. I disagree :)


Last edited by Mike V. on Mon Jun 30, 2003 8:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 9:38 am 
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Link to above in web-page form with links at the top to each section.

http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/pl24swaps.html

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2003 8:40 pm 
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CLEARING UP THE CAM SENSOR/MAGNET FIASCO THAT HAS OCCURED DUE TO AFTERMARKET CAMS AND MISINFORMATION THAT WAS NOT BY MY DOING BUT WAS BROUGHT UP TO ME AS MY WRONG DOING

The correct way to handle 2.0 cams in a 2.4 is cut the nipple off and turn the cam magnent = clockwise 90 degrees

The correct way to handle 2.4 cams in a 2.0 is cut the nipple off and turn the cam magnent = counter-clockwise 90 degrees

The cams install the same as a 2.0 and the gears just go on there are no specific things on that side just that you are using 2.4 side of the gears

Okay all clear now?

Michael Volkmann II

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 4:39 pm 
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Will a 2.0 UDP work on a 2.4?? If I read the how-to correctly it will. Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2003 5:50 pm 
1PhatACR wrote:
Will a 2.0 UDP work on a 2.4?? If I read the how-to correctly it will. Thanks


Is this a joke? If not....it will, with 2.0L accessories. You need to be more specific as in Gen1 or Gen2 UDP etc....


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2003 8:12 pm 
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ragtop63 wrote:
So this question is probably gonna get some real obvious feedback but I have to ask...

I have a '99 Neon R/T. I would LOVE to run a 2.4 in it. Even better, a 2.4 with forced induction. My question is, since I live in California, I wonder about SMOG laws and such. If I were to dump a 2.4 in my Neon, how would it get tested for SMOG? Does it's allowable range of emissions and stuff change? I know forced induction would drastically change this but lets just pretend I'll keep it normally aspirated for now. Any ideas?
Also, the How-To's seems to be oriented toward 2.0 SOHC to 2.4 DOHC. I am already running a 2.0 DOHC (obviously :D ). Does this mean the swap would be easier for me (labor-wise)?


I don't know how the SMOG laws are in California but here in Missouri my 1997 ACR passed with flying colors and it is turbocharged and has a 2.4L under the hood. When the emmissions test was performed on the car all I had to do was have them hook it up to their equipment through the data port under the steering wheel. As long as all of the sensors check out you are golden. Otherwise if they don't you are screwed. I somehow doubt that California does the sensor deal since it is so easy for people to defeat sensors these days so you might be up against the sniffer test and all I gotta say is good luck with the sniffer test because if you are running your fuel system for both the 2.4L and turbo you will be running rich even at idle.

Later

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My Seller/Buyer Feedback
2014 Dart SXT 2.4L - Current DD
2001 SE Sedan MTX – Future Autocross Car
2002 Base Sedan (R.I.P. 1-28-2012)
1999 Sport Coupe (GT Neon) - Sold
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Website - http://www.gtneon.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2003 1:06 pm 
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mopar95neon wrote:
A bunch of confusing stuff rather than stopping and reading.


LET ME CLEAR THIS UP FOR YOU AS YOUR POST IS MORE CONFUSING TO NEWBIES ANY OTHER POST I'VE SEEN. HOW MANY TIMES HAVE I TYPED THIS????? :lol: :lol: :lol: YES I KNOW I'M ALL CAPS!!!

FOR A 2.4 IN A DODGE/PLYMOUTH/CHRYSLER 1ST GEN NEON USING ALL THE FACTORY COMPUTER YOU MUST

STOP WORRYING ABOUT WHICH SPARK PLUG WIRE IS WHERE. LEAVE THEM ALL ALONE IN THE STOCK LOCATION!!!! JUST SIMPLY SWAP THE OUTER WIRES ON THE THREE WIRE CONNECTOR TO THE COIL PACK. SO CUT THE WIRES AND SWITCH EM...ITS NOT THAT HARD. THE NEON IS BATCH FIRE AND IT JUST CHANGES WHICH TWO CYLINDERS FIRE DUE TO THE CRANK SENSOR BEING 90 OFF OF THE 2.0 CRANK SENSOR

NOW THAT YOU HAVE CHANGED THOSE TWO WIRES ABOVE YOU SIMPLY GO TO THE HARNESS FOR THE FUEL INJECTORS. LABEL EM SO YOU KNOW WHICH IS WHICH. REMOVE ALL TAPE/WRAPPING HOLDING THE WIRES TOGETHER.
PUT THE NUMBER ONE INJECTOR PLUG ON INJECTOR NUMBER 2.
PUT THE NUMBER 2 INJECTOR PLUG ON INJECTOR NUMBER 3.
PUT THE NUMBER THREE INJECTOR PLUG ON INJECTOR NUMBER FOUR.

NOW PAY ATTENTION TO THE LAST PART HERE
CUT OFF THE PLUG FOR INJECTOR 4, GET TWO PIECES OF WIRE AND SOLDER THEM IN TO YOUR CUTS ON THE HARNESS AND PLUG. NOW PUT THE NUMBER 4 INJECTOR PLUG ON INJECTOR NUMBER 1.

Okay all sarcasism off now. Seriously thats all you have to do. I've repeated it more than once. Have fun. It is written on the FAQ more than once and it is in both of the How/To's. Read everything at least twice before ever attempting a 2.4 swap please

Have fun now and Mopar95Neon please edit you post cuz it will confuse the hell out of newbs. I know you are just trying to explain the firing order before and after but seriously its gonna freak out the newbs. I'm not downing you at all, I'm just being really sarcastic above and using you as an example. People really don't read things and are so easily confused when it comes to 2.4 swaps because of things like above. They will look at your thing and end up wiring something wrong.

YES I WAS SARCASTIC ABOVE...GET OVER IT :wink:

Michael Volkmann II

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Auto response from ACRCPE45 (3:06:14 AM): Confused. I hate Neon's.

1995 Plymouth ACR Coupe - Flame Red - Great Daily Driver... Thanks Ed.
1995 Dodge Sport Coupe - Nitro-Yellow-Green - Loaded, Now Runs & Drives, but the alternator is dead.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2004 7:40 pm 
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Let's see if people actually read this as it is posted more than once. I'm jsut curious if anyone actually reads all of it

WHERE DO I BUY 2.4 MOUNTS OR ADAPTERS?????

TTI is no longer in business making mount adapters for 2.4 Neons.

www.apexmodified.ca has an adapter very similar to what TTi had

www.neonparts.net Still has complete kits along with just the adapter


I hope its clear enough. :lol: Read a little...its a good thing. Congrats if you made it this far, read it again. :lol:

Michael Volkmann II

_________________
Auto response from ACRCPE45 (3:06:14 AM): Confused. I hate Neon's.

1995 Plymouth ACR Coupe - Flame Red - Great Daily Driver... Thanks Ed.
1995 Dodge Sport Coupe - Nitro-Yellow-Green - Loaded, Now Runs & Drives, but the alternator is dead.

My wife claims I officially have way to much Neon memorabilia. I disagree :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2004 1:03 am 
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So, I'm confused...

Where exactly can I go to get a mount for my swap?






:wink: :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject: Noob question
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 8:36 pm 
Sorry for the horrible noobie question but.....I'm new to the world of Modding engines, is there like a "bible" that i can read so i know what everyone is talking about?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 11:28 am 
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Posts: 312
Location: st albans w.v.
I have a couple questions that ididnt see in the how to's

1 on the clutches, can you use either one a modular or a non modular?
I have a modular system, will it bolt up to the 2.4 stock flywheel, or do
I have to keep the flywheel off my 2.0?

2 I have crane cams for 2.0. I understand how to make them work.
my question is. my adj cam gears. will they still work, or is there a
diffrent offset needed?

I know that the stocks just need to be turned around and its the
diffrence of the offset of those that rasies my question

thanks for any help
jeremy beane

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:58 pm 
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ok i have a 95 sohc and wnt to swap a (not sure) 96/97 2.4 dohc what would i need for parts?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:11 pm 
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jbeane wrote:
I have a couple questions that ididnt see in the how to's

1 on the clutches, can you use either one a modular or a non modular?
I have a modular system, will it bolt up to the 2.4 stock flywheel, or do
I have to keep the flywheel off my 2.0?



Bolt pattern is the same, 2.0 clutches work fine on a 2.4 flywheel.

Quote:

2 I have crane cams for 2.0. I understand how to make them work.
my question is. my adj cam gears. will they still work, or is there a
diffrent offset needed?

I know that the stocks just need to be turned around and its the
diffrence of the offset of those that rasies my question



Unorthodox is currently the only company that sells true 2.4-specific gears. AEM gears can be made to work, I have pieces to do that.

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'95 Ply ACR sedan NYG
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'95 Ply Sport Coupe NYG 2.4 SOHC ATX
'95 Ply Sport Coupe NYG 2.0 SOHC MTX
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 Post subject: Re: a correction needs to be made
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2004 9:43 pm 
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Posts: 7
Location: Punxsutawney
i have a 95 neon sport sohc with manual trans,,i want to put an 03 pt cruiser head and turbo on this car,,,what do i have to do to make this work,,do i need to change my harness and cpu, and if so what should i get,,email me please if you have the answer,,,


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 Post subject: Re: a correction needs to be made
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2004 8:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2002 2:49 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Neenah Wi
seegeer wrote:
i have a 95 neon sport sohc with manual trans,,i want to put an 03 pt cruiser head and turbo on this car,,,what do i have to do to make this work,,do i need to change my harness and cpu, and if so what should i get,,email me please if you have the answer,,,

Scroll wheel on your mouse not working?
carmen


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 Post subject: Read All This, But Still Have Questions!
PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 12:02 am 
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Posts: 1
Location: Iowa
Ok, where do I start? I have lots of questions. I have read all the way down on this forum, but I still have quite a few questions.

I have a black 1995 Dodge Neon 2.0 DOHC Sport Coupe with a Dynomax catback exhaust and a TTI Racing underdrive pully. I removed the 2.0 DOHC motor.

I bought a 2001 2.4 DOHC motor, removed from a 2001 Dodge Stratus. I have it in my garage on a motor stand.

I would like to use the newer 2001 Stratus 2.4 Intake Manifold and Exhaust Manifold (that came with the newer motor) in my Neon. The newer intake manifold is made of some kind of plastic. I also noticed that the 2001 2.4 has a larger bore throtle body on the intake manifold. Can I use the newer intake and exhaust manifolds that came with this motor on my Neon? I am not afraid to put a new custom exhaust coming off the newer exhaust header if that is what is needed to do this.

I am planning on using the stock 2.0 DOHC PCM (Computer) that came in my Neon with this newer motor. Will these work together? I know they were saying these are compatable, but will the difference in years make a difference?

I am also planning on using the 2.0 Neon coil pack, since the 2.4 motor that I purchased didn't come with a coil pack. Are there any differences in these coil packs?

The 2.4 came with no motor mounts at all. I have my Neon motor mounts. Do I need to get the motor mounts from a stratus to put into my Neon or can I use my 1995 Neon motor mounts with this motor?

I can weld and would like to make my own 2.4 conversion mount. Does anyone have the measurments for this mount?

I also have a TTI Racing underdrive pully from my 2.0 DOHC engine and I would like to use it on my 2.4 if possible. Can this be done?

I am ready to move to the next step, but I don't know what that is. Where do I go from here and what do I do next? I have never done a swap before, but I figure this is the best way to learn.

Thanks,
J-SUN
jasonmburns@msn.com :?:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 8:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2004 2:39 pm
Posts: 17
has anyone put a magnum head on a 2.4? I have a 2.4 with bent valves and a magnum head......just wondering what it would take and how you guys think it would run....I plan on doing a Nitrous/turbo Setup.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2002 12:37 pm
Posts: 560
Location: Kansas City, MO
As of now there is only one car that has been rumored to have a Magnum head on a 2.4L but there has never been any pictures to prove that the swap has been done. There has been alot of speculation from many who say it is do able but no one has really documented it and seen what it can do. It will be a wheel spinning torque monster though if someone does ever try it.

Later

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My Seller/Buyer Feedback
2014 Dart SXT 2.4L - Current DD
2001 SE Sedan MTX – Future Autocross Car
2002 Base Sedan (R.I.P. 1-28-2012)
1999 Sport Coupe (GT Neon) - Sold
1997 ACR Coupe - 2.4L Turbo - Sold
Website - http://www.gtneon.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 8:56 pm 
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Posts: 17
GT Neon wrote:
As of now there is only one car that has been rumored to have a Magnum head on a 2.4L but there has never been any pictures to prove that the swap has been done. There has been alot of speculation from many who say it is do able but no one has really documented it and seen what it can do. It will be a wheel spinning torque monster though if someone does ever try it.

Later


Well I'm going to try it. When I get knee deep in it I'll post how its coming along. 5.0 Mustang torque in a neon....Honda boys will be jealuos. I still would love to see flow bench numbers of a stock dohc head vs. A Magnum head. I also Pull motors at a slavage yard (its my job :twisted: ) So I get all the low price parts I could ever ask for...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 9:04 pm 
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Posts: 560
Location: Kansas City, MO
The Stock DOHC head is a bad head for the 2.4L to begin with anyway. It is good for a 2.0L but the 2.4L wants 20% more air and I highly doubt that the regular DOHC is up to the task. Now comparing the PT one to a Magnum would be a better comparison. I just don't think that the Magnum head can supply enough air for the larger motor but if you do attempt it make sure you document everything and take tons of pictures. Also buy stock in a tire company because you will need it......

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David Williams
My Seller/Buyer Feedback
2014 Dart SXT 2.4L - Current DD
2001 SE Sedan MTX – Future Autocross Car
2002 Base Sedan (R.I.P. 1-28-2012)
1999 Sport Coupe (GT Neon) - Sold
1997 ACR Coupe - 2.4L Turbo - Sold
Website - http://www.gtneon.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 9:17 pm 
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GT Neon wrote:
The Stock DOHC head is a bad head for the 2.4L to begin with anyway. It is good for a 2.0L but the 2.4L wants 20% more air and I highly doubt that the regular DOHC is up to the task. Now comparing the PT one to a Magnum would be a better comparison. I just don't think that the Magnum head can supply enough air for the larger motor but if you do attempt it make sure you document everything and take tons of pictures. Also buy stock in a tire company because you will need it......


I wonder If I will still have to lengthen the harness, I know the 2.4 Has a Taller Deck Hieght...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2004 6:04 am 
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Shouldn't have to lengthen anything from what I remember when spoolboy and I installed the engine in my car.

Later

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My Seller/Buyer Feedback
2014 Dart SXT 2.4L - Current DD
2001 SE Sedan MTX – Future Autocross Car
2002 Base Sedan (R.I.P. 1-28-2012)
1999 Sport Coupe (GT Neon) - Sold
1997 ACR Coupe - 2.4L Turbo - Sold
Website - http://www.gtneon.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 4:18 pm 
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Neon Enthusiast
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Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 12:03 am
Posts: 79
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Michael Volkmann II wrote:
Let's see if people actually read this as it is posted more than once. I'm jsut curious if anyone actually reads all of it

WHERE DO I BUY 2.4 MOUNTS OR ADAPTERS?????

TTI is no longer in business making mount adapters for 2.4 Neons.

www.apexmodified.ca has an adapter very similar to what TTi had

www.lfsracing.com sells billet aluminum ones with hardware


I hope its clear enough. :lol: Read a little...its a good thing. Congrats if you made it this far, read it again. :lol:

Michael Volkmann II


I was just about to post about this! I'm glad I checked 1st! Why are all these companies closed...CNNP, TTi, Rage, etc :?: :?: :?: :?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 4:24 pm 
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Neon Enthusiast
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Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 12:03 am
Posts: 79
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Michael Volkmann II wrote:
Let's see if people actually read this as it is posted more than once. I'm jsut curious if anyone actually reads all of it

WHERE DO I BUY 2.4 MOUNTS OR ADAPTERS?????

TTI is no longer in business making mount adapters for 2.4 Neons.

www.apexmodified.ca has an adapter very similar to what TTi had

www.lfsracing.com sells billet aluminum ones with hardware


I hope its clear enough. :lol: Read a little...its a good thing. Congrats if you made it this far, read it again. :lol:

Michael Volkmann II


http://www.apexmodified.ca/html/products.html doesn't have any products listed or pics :!: :!: :!: :!:

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