www.neons.org

There are many different ways to do this swap; my swap is not "the way" to do it. Take what is helpfull to you.

Also..Please read the how to before asking any questions. It's silly for me to answer a question that is answered within the how to.
Do not hold me responsible for anything that may result from using this how to; to include: car damage or injury to yourself or others.

Interior swap project log

Written by Dajokerx2
I wanted to make sure everyone noticed the connectors for the 1st gen on this how to are for a 95..it may vary from year to year..Do not hold me responsible if your wiring doesn't work..you should check your 1st gen wiring to be sure it matches what I put up..

Yes I used a stage 1 pcm(a new one). This makes it reliable
Use the rear section! I can't tell enough people.
Wiring/soldering that I can think of off the top of my head if you use the rear harness too and want fully functional everythingl.
engine bay
Brake warning level switch(use 1st gen connector)
vss(1st gen)
oil pressure sender
battery temp sensor(1st gen works for me)
reverse switch
blinkers and sidemarkers, foglights,(headlights are direct fit
horn
windshield washer pump motor
interior
ignition switch
buy the headlight and wiper stalks you don't want to rewire the 1st gen stalk and headlamp switch..trust me)..and besides..the srt ones look better
clockspring
Stop lamp switch
hvac controls
defrost
wipers
power locks/mirrors if you have em. Power mirrors are easy; I had to run new wires for the power locks running of the hot wire from the security module connector..works..but it was a pain.
dome light
door ajar sense
speakers of course
rear
fuel pump module connector should be the same
I will update this at a later time with proper pinouts.

If you don't use the rear harness. You would splice the srt harness near the hood releae lever and add on the following soldering
fuel pump sender
fuel pump power
brake light wires
rear turn wires
defrost wire
fuel pump sender wire to cluster
I can't think of the rest for some reason..but here
1 L38 16BR/WT (EXPORT)
2 G71 20VT/YL (POWER LOCKS)
3 G10 20LG/RD
4 L7 18BK/YL
5 L62 18BR/RD
6 L63 18DG/RD
7 X51 20BR/YL
8 X52 20DB/WT
9 L50 18WT/TN
10 X5 20WT/RD (EXPORT)
11 G120 18WT/DB (EXPORT)
12 G4 20DB
13 M2 20YL
14 M9 20LB/OR
15 X57 20BR/LB
16 X58 20DB/OR
17 -
18 M1 18PK
19 P33 18OR/BK (POWER LOCKS)
20 -
21 Q2 14LG/BK
22 -
23 P36 18PK/VT (POWER LOCKS)
24 C15 12BK/WT
That's the connector off the srt harness. You would be using alot of them and there is another 5 pin connector off the srt harness you would splice as well. And you would have to research each wire and each wire on the 1st gen harness. They are not all on the same connector on the 1st gen harness. Gets messy quick.
The other reason I say to use the rear harness is.....I woud have to cut all my connections to remove the pdc and interior harness for any reason and soldering by the hood release lever is not really fun. It's alot cleaner using all the harnesses.

Honestly..the swap isn't that hard. Just takes some fabbing here and there and takes some time to do.
I'l write up a quick how to for you guys..here goes..If I forgot somethng and I remember I will post up..if someone notices I forgot something please post up and I can change it. But always be prepared for the unexpected..your swap may vary and I will not be held responsible for something going wrong on your swap:-)
In the how to below I did not include basics like hooking up the cat pipe, running the brake booster lines and a few other basics. If you do not know to do the basics of a swap. Don't try this until you do!!!
What I don't have;
I do not have ac.
I do not have airbags yet!
I do not have evap/purge or srt nvld system yet!
And now the list


Parts needed for 95 and steel tank neons
Fsm for your year neon and SRT

Wastegate solenoid 4606599AA
Surge valve solenoid 4606598AA
Tip solenoid 4606597AA
solenoid bracket
Tip sensor
solenoid/vac lines 4884539AB & 4884538AB
aat sensor PT#5293138AA
charge intake sensor P/n 4606487ab
srt o2 sensors up 56029049aa down 5033200aa
srt clutch switch 4671756ac

stage 1 pcm Must be new and never installed on an srt this is to avoid using the sentry system. (you can use an srt pcm so long as you have the matching skim and chipped key(ensure you know the proper vin for the set if you want to upgrade to a staged pcm later you'll need the vin); or get a matchin key and skim and send a staged pcm out to flight systems for a vin flash)
If using a 03 engine you must get the stage1/04 injectors.
Engine harness
Pdc and headlamp harness
Interior harness
Rear harness( I didn't originally use it; I did redo my interior wiring to include it though)
I used a 1st gen starter.

stratus tensioner mount 4593436AA (use a 04 upper outer stratus timing cover to close the gap that a srt cover would leave)
Toomanyneons mount adapter
Srt structural collar 4792251AC
Flip your tranny mount.

plastic fuel tank , straps, filler kneck and door housing.
58psi fpr
srt fuel line
1st generation fuel accumulator(found on plastic tank neons)
srt or walbro fuel pump and canister(a complete pump) If you use a 1st gen canister your gauge will read backwards from what I've been told.
small filter for fuel vapor tube

04 Srt engine complete with sensors, alt, coil pack etc. Get a dropout minus the tranny.
Srt cat pipe with gasket and nuts

srt fan
srt intercooler 5278944AC
hot side pipe 5290252AE(comes with hot side charge pipe)
charge pipes 5278973AE(cold side pipe)

Bigger clutch
modular conversion kit if going from non-mod to modular
4 back of flywheel bolts if going from non-mod to modular

srt coolant bottle 5278953AC (I actually ended up using the 1st gen bottle)
boost gauge
srt cluster
Srt blinker/headlamp switch w/ foglights 5073045Ab (multifunction switch)
Srt wiper switch
Srt flashers

Fabricate a cai
Trim your 1st gen front motor mount bracket to clear the srt oil pan
Fabricate/modify a bobble bracket or fabricate a hotside pipe to clear the stock bobble instead. I've heard you can use the bobble strut in it's original location if you work the hotside pipe around it. I did not use a bobble strut. With my mounts I have virtually no engine movement. I have installed a vitor bobble strut; I had to bend up my hotside pipe for a tight fit. My other mounts are AFX solid front, deyeme firm filled sides(which is what I originally had without the bobble)
Relocate the oil cooler hoses to clear the axle. Your oil cooler may hit your axle depending on your setup; I did not have this problem.
fabricate a pcm mount
Trim the bottom of the lower pdc cover to clear the battery tray. It's a tight fit but it works. if you relocate your battery this is not needed.
Fabricate a battery tray;
Trim your dash for srt cluster fitment
Trim you srt fan to fit
You need a dohc bulge hood and need to trim some of the underhood bracing to clear the thermostat housing and timing covers.
Trim front of structural collar to clear fmm bracket <---I did not use the structural collar!!
Splice srt harness to appropriate 1st gen switches/connectors.
Along with many interior switches you'll need to splice in your brake fluid sensor, reverse switch, headlights/blinkers (if needed for some reason..my 1st gen headlight bulbs fit the srt harness; blinkers needed splicing) , vss. Be prepared for lots of research in your fsm's. And be prepared for the unexpected and unlisted.
Cut as you see fit to install the srt ic; trimming or extending of charge pipes may be needed depending on your ic mount location/angle.
Be prepared for unlisted fabrication.
I also removed my heating ducts. The srt harness went in a lot easier that way.
Modify a longer t-body cable onto the srt bracket or get an srt cable to fit.
Will need to trim the steering surround to clear the srt headlight/blinker stalks.<--mine still don't fit I'll be trying the srt surrounds sometime.
extra wires in every size.
heat shield of some sort for brake lines behind turbo

Every tool you can think of.


Parts needed for plastic tank models
All of the above with the exception of the plastic tank and straps,filler kneck, door housing, accumulator and srt fuel pump canister. I have seen some 1st generation plastic tank pump canisters which are not campatible with the srt pump. To totally avoid this possible situation buy a complete srt pump with canister.

recomended
Bigger axles
bigger better radiator
Limited slip differential
Solid front mount and firm side mounts

Of course you still need basic stuff like alt belt, plugs, oil etc..you get the idea
EDIT AND UDPATE
I am swapping in an a srt clockspring and ignition switch. I'll be using the srt rear harness with an uncut srt dash harness and srt door harnesses. The only connectors I will need to splice on the interior are the brake lamp switch(which is connected to the pdc/headlamp harness) and c202 which leads to the wiper motor and resistor block. I also have the srt interior in my car which lets me use the srt defrost switch, hvac switch etc so this option is pretty much for anyone else who uses the srt interior. It will all be plug an play with the exception of the c202 and c203 connector which are the wipers and heater blower motor connector. This is much simpler and a much cleaner/reliable install than the original instructions.C202 is the connector I couldn't find when I first wrote this how to. Again..the wires and color code/circuit designation are the same;; just match the color sup and be good to go. If I find another connector that is different I will post up. And before I forget I will have to splice the p/m, p/l, p/w motor connectors on the srt door harnesses but that is simple compared to making new harnesses for the locks/mirrors which I had originally done. Running the power options off the srt harness is safer as well.
Pic of srt driver's door harness connector/also you can see the wiring is seriously cleaned up using the rear harness too.
.
The door harness connector where it connects to the body is bigger than the 1st gens. So I took the pins out and put all the wires through the 1st gen grommet type thing and put the pins back in the connector with the connector near the kickpanel.
Using the rear harness, srt clockspring and ignition switch will still save you time even without the srt interior.
On the rear srt harness the dome light connector is different. Simply pull the pins and swap them into a 1st gen connector(the pins are the same type).
The rear plate light grommet/wiring is on the passenger's side where the 1st gens is on the driver's. These wires needs to be extended a foot or so and attatched to the 1st gen wiring.
The trunk light is the same. Using the rear harness you will lose your door ajar switches due to the 2nd gen/srt's using a different setup. You can always wire them up by splicing here and there but you'll need to research that.

I would install the rear, interior and pdc harness first. Get those wired up as far as you can without the engine in. Assemble the interior. You will notice your 1st gen steering surrounds do not fit over the srt blinker and headlight stalks. I have not tried to use the srt ones yet but will sometime. They should fit. I currently have no surrounds.
Basic Wiring to get the car inspectable
When removing your interior harness. Leave pigtails on the following;
ignition switch, brake lamp switch, defrost switch, heater core, the wipers, the heater resistor block, hvac controls.. There is a a connector on the right side top dash that looks like 3 connectors in one. Leave that in tact. Those wires run to the resistor block and the wiper motor. You will use that to splice in your srt harness instead of pulling up the cowl.
Left to right 95 connectors----srt harness
Wiper motor 1st gen I cannot find the wiper motor wiring in the fsm I have on me. I used my suppliment and I can't find it right now. When I do I will post up the 1st gen wires. They are the same colors and cicuit code as the srt ones. The location is near the resistor block wires
srt harness is connector C202.
1.---------------Z1 16BK GROUND
2 ---------------V5 16DG/YL WIPER PARK SWITCH SENSE
3 ----------------V6 16DB FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-ACC)
4 ---------------V3 16BR/WT WIPER LOW SPEED OUTPUT
5 ---------------V4 16RD/YL WIPER HIGH SPEED OUTPUT



Heater blower motor 1st gen C404 Color Black on right side of hvac housing
1. C1 14DG-------C1 14DG FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN)
2. C7 14BK/TN--------C7 14BK/TN BLOWER MOTOR HIGH DRIVER

Hvac use first gen connector
1. E2 22OR-------------E2 22OR PANEL LAMPS DRIVER
2. C2 22DB/YL--------------C2 22DB/YL (RHD) MODE SWITCH OUTPUT
3. C4 14TN-----------------C4 14TN BLOWER MOTOR LOW DRIVER
4. C5 14LG-------------C5 14LG BLOWER MOTOR M1 DRIVER
5. C6 14LB---------------C6 14LB BLOWER MOTOR M2 DRIVER
6. C7 14BK/TN-----------------C7 14BK/TN BLOWER MOTOR HIGH DRIVER
7. Z8 14BK/VT-----------------Z8 14BK/VT GROUND

Resistor block 1st gen connector
1. C4 14TN---------C4 14TN BLOWER MOTOR LOW DRIVER
2. C7 14BK/TN------------C7 14BK/TN BLOWER MOTOR HIGH DRIVER
3. C6 14LB-----------C6 14LB BLOWER MOTOR M2 DRIVER
4. empty
5. C5 14LG ---------C5 14LG BLOWER MOTOR M1 DRIVER

The hvac for 1st gen is a 25A fuse. The srt uses only 10A. I threw in a 15A otherwise the fuse will blow on high. WARNING!!! I have not melted my srt wires running a 15A fuse. You might run the risk of doing so using a 15A instead of 10A in the srt fuse box. Run a 15A at your own risk.
From left to right. 95 ---------- SRT

Oil pressure sender
1. G6 18GY------------G6 20GY

Brake fluid level switch(1st gen connector)
1. Z1 20BK------------- Z12 20BK/TN GROUND
2. G9 20GY/BK--------G9 20GY/BK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH SENSE

Battery temp sensor(1st gen connector)
1. K4 18BK/LB------------K167 20BR/YL (2.4L TURBO) SENSOR GROUND 2
2. G31 18VT/LG---------K118 20PK/YL BATTERY TEMP SIGNAL

Blinkers(1st gen connector)
Left
1. L161 18 LG-------------L161 18LG/OR LEFT TURN SIGNAL
2. L7 18BK/YL-------------------L7 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
3. Z1 18BK----------------Z1 18BK (2.4L TURBO) GROUND
Right
1. L60 18TN------------L160 18TN/RD RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
2. L7 18BK/YL--------------------L7 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
3. Z1 18BK-----------------Z1 18BK (2.4L TURBO) GROUND


Side markers(1st gen connector)
Left
1. L61 20LG-----------Z1 20BK GROUND
2. L7 20BK/YL-----------L7 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
Right
1. L60 20TN-------------Z1 20BK GROUND
2. L7 20BK/YL-----------L7 18BK/YL HEADLAMP SWITCH OUTPUT

Foglights(1st gen connector)
Left
1. L39 20LB/WT----------------L39 16LB (2.4L TURBO) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
2. Z1 20BK---------------------Z1 18BK (2.4L TURBO) GROUND
Right
1. L39 20LB/WT----------L39 16LB (2.4L TURBO) FRONT FOG LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
2. Z1 20BK---------------Z1 20BK GROUND

Defrost switch 1st gen connector
1. C15 14BK/WT-----------C15 12BK/WT REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER SWITCH OUTPUT
2. A4 14BK/RD---------A4 12BK/RD FUSED B(+)
3. F20 22WT-----------F20 20WT FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN)
4. Z2 22BK/LG----------Z2 22BK/LG GROUND
5. E2 22OR-----------E2 20OR PANEL LAMPS DRIVER


Ignition switch 10 pin connector (the srt switch fits the 1st gen fine..so if using the dash harness get an srt switch to make it easier for yourself)
1 nothing
2 A22 12BK/OR----------A22 12BK/OR IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT RUN
3 A2 12PK/BK-------------A2 12PK/BK FUSED B+
4 NOTHING
5 NOTHING
6 NOTHING
7 A1 14RD --------------A1 14RD FUSED B+
8 A31 14BK/WT -----------14BK/WT IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT(ACC/RUN)
9 A21 14DB -----------14DB IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT(RUN/START)
10 A41 14YL -----------A41 14YL IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT(START)
Extra srt wires I DIDN'T USE for cig lighter are
F30 16RD/BK
F1 16DB/BK
G26 22LB IS FOR IGNITION SENSE
On my srt harness the DB was LB and the RD was PK..just a heads up may vary from year to year.
IGNITION SWITCH SENSE 2 PIN CONNECTOR
1 G26 20LB -----------G26 22LB KEY IN IGNITION SWITCH SENSE
2 G16 20BK/LB --------G16 20TN LF DOOR JAMB SWITCH SENSE

STOP LAMP SWITCH 6 PIN CONNECTOR
1 F32 20PK/DB ------------F32 18PK/DB FUSED B+
2 L50 20WT/TN -----------L50 18WT/TN STOP LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
3 NOTHING
4 NOTHING
5 Z12 20BK/TN -----------Z1 18BK GROUND
6 K29 20 WT/PK -----------K29 20WT/PK BRAKE SWITCH SENSE

VSS 3 WAY USE 1ST GEN CONNECTOR
1 G7 18WT/OR---------20WT/OR VSS SIGNAL
2 K4 1BK/LB------------20BK/LB SENSOR GROUND
3 K7 18 OR---------------20OR 8VOLT SUPPLY

CLOCKSPRING 4 WAY 1ST GEN CONNECTOR
1 X3 20BK/RD----------X322BK/RD HORN RELAY CONTROL
2 NOTHING
3 NOTHING
4 NOTHING

FUEL PUMP MODULE 4 WAY
1 A141 18DG/WT-------18DG/WT FUEL PUMP REALAY OUTPUT
2 G4 18DB-----20DB FUEL LEVEL SENSOR SIGNAL
3 Z2 18BK/LG--------20BK/LG GROUND
4 Z1 18BK ------18BK GROUND

REVERSE SWITCH 1ST GEN
1 L1 20VT/BK--------18VT/BK
2 F20 20VT----------18WT

The srt clutch switch has two switches on it. One for up and one for when the clutch is down. You obviously want to use the down one. I had to guess. So do you. But You can't just plug it into the pedal bracketry. No of course not. On the 1st gen connector there is one lip on the clutch switch on the srt one there are two. Cut one off to make it fit. I actually carefully melted it down. If your car does not start after you are done with the swap andf everything seems to work properely try using the other clutch switch. I guessed wrong and had to switch the clutch switches just make sure to tie the leftover one out of the way.

Trim you front motor mount bracket to clear the oil pan.
Quick story on front motor mount bracket
Initially I did not loctite my front motor mount bracket bolts that bolt through the bellhousing. This caused bolts to back out. This also gave a pivot point for the bellhousing. I tore my front motor mount bracket 4 inches and broke a piece off my bellhousing and my turbo slammed my firewall a few times. I have since fixed the bracket and temp fixed the bellhousing.
Specific advice on the motor mount bracket.
Loctite all the bolts and put a nut on the end of each one on the bellhousing side(with washers). The bottom front motor mount bracket has the 3rd bolt hole. You cannot get it in from the passenger side the oil pan gets in the way. What I did was took a 12x1.75(correct size bolts) bolt and matching nut with washers. I wedged the nut inbetween the bracket and the oil pan and stuck the bolt through the drivers side of the bellhousing(I had to use washers on the driver's side to space the bolt from grinding into the oil pan. It has to be just right or you can damage your pan. If I were you I would do this as well.
Install your clutch and dust shields. Everything will be 1st gen. You can use the srt clutch if you get Jeffb to trim it for you. I am using a 60k beat on pt clutch and it hasn't slipped once. Use the 1st gen tob if using 1st gen clutch use the srt tob if you use the srt clutch.
Then mate the trans with the engine and drop it in using solid and firm mounts(make sure your alternator is on the engine it is a pain in the *a#S!d^f* getting it under the wiper cowl support it will not fit in any other way so put it on before dropping in the engine). Connect all the engine wiring and splice all the engine connectors.You will need to extend wiring on the vss, reverse switch, oil pressure sender, air temp sensor in the intake tube, iac and tps sensors as well and battery temp sensor(I'm sure someone didn't extend the tps and iac but I would just because it was a tight fit and the harness was pulling on those specific wires).

Connect your ic piping( I used a heavy duty zip tie on the hotside ic pipe bracket and tied it to the front motor mount bracket..this keeps it tight with no play; it will hit your bracket though) and then go ahead and put the ic on since you know where the ic pipes will be resting at this should be easy. If you are worried about hitting the rad just drop it in while you test fit the ic. I flipped my ic. I did not remove my bumper support or trim it. I cut holes in the sheetmetat of the radiator support. I then (using the stock srt ic bolt holes(more like slots) used 3/8 inch lag screws and 3/8 inch washers. I drilled them towards the engine bay into the sheetmetal(I held the ic up with a jack while doing this so it was as flush as possible with the bumper support. I then marked where I wanted to drill into the ic towards the bumper support. Yes I drilled straight up through the srt ic mounting bracket and into the bumper support(all holes for lag screws were drilled undersized to ensure a tight fit for the lag scews). Again I used 3/8 inch lag screws and washers. I can shake the ic and get the whole car to shake with it. It works good. You may do something else of course but this is what I did.


Then fit the rad and fans in. Here's a tricky part. The srt's use a seperate fan harness running off the pdc harness(connects near the fmm). And guess what. That harness is not available for purchase seperately through dodge..great huh?{This harness is now available for purchase..took them long enough; so no need for splicing} So if you're unlucky like me you need to make a harness. I wanted to use the srt fan so I had to find matching connectors for them off an old 2nd gen harness we had laying around. I spliced it into the high relay output of the fan harness connector. Using the srt fans will require serious trimming of the bottom of the fan shroud and the use of zip ties .
Srt fan harness connector
1 Z1 12BK GROUND--------------Splice in Z1 14BK off the 1st gen wiring
2 C23 12DG RAD FAN CONTROL/HIGH RELAY OUTPUT<---splice in C25 14LG of your 1st gen harness.
3 C116 12LG/WT RAD FAN HIGH/LOW FEED
4 C25 12YL RAD FAN LOW RELAY OUTPUT
Your fan wiring may vary. I made a harness(Well someone made it for me actually) from scratch so I did not use the 1st gen wiring. The wiring above technically should get 1st gen fans going. I would reccomend using a dual fan.
Using the srt fans makes it a tight fit as well. I am not using rad brackets of any sort.(I have since installed a set of deyeme rad brackets; they make the fan shroud extremely close to the intake mani but they do the job) Rad hoses were trimmed and made to fit. They are my 1st gen hoses. You can try whatever you want there.
Shifter cables..run one on each side of the srt hot side downpipe(Might want to take off the pipe and then slide it in from the bottom throuh the cabels; you don't want to mess up your cables)..there! easy right? Next move onto the axles, pop em in. You'll see your cv boot likes to rub on the oil cooler hoses. so you gotta fix that!! What I did was cut about an inch and a half(may differ with yours) and just pull them tighter towards the cooler side. This made them clear the boot by a 1/4 of an inch. I also used a zip tie on the hoses to pull them a little bit out of the way as well.
Computer mounting time. I took a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel and cut it 1.5 inches longer than the pcm from one corner to the opposite corner. I drilled a hole into the metal behind the headlight/blinker. I then mounted the pcm with a bolt and wingnut through the steel and another bolt through the pcm as well as another bolt through just the steel into the metal behind the headlight (there is a bolt on the bottom of the pcm as well..through the steel)(I have included a pic of my pcm relocation as well as left the original location pic I used. This cleaned up the bay alot)



What's left? Battery tray! I used an iceman. I drilled new holes for the iceman tray. I moved it back as far as possible. There is a piece of steel on the back right corner of the iceman tray. I cut an inch off it. This made it easier for it to slide under the trans mount housing and gave me a little more room to push the tray back.
Right under my filter is where the piece slides under the mount housing steel. There is a lip on the front of the iceman. I would cut it off; just to give a little more clearance for the harnesses.

I drilled a hole back there for a new bolt hole for the battery tray. I used the top side bolt hole in the battery tray but just drilled a new hole into the metal of the car. I did not use any lower bolts. You will want to take a piece of thick heater hose(if you trimed your stock ic pipes use a piece of that) and epoxy it(or glue..whatever) on the front bottom corner of the battery tray. This will prevent it from rubbing your throttle body and make a pad for the tray instead.
Make your intake tube. Looking at mine it looks like crap. Well I have to rework it. But if you go on ebay you can search for short tube intake etc tubes and find one very similar to mine. Buy a 90degree elbow for it and there ya go. You will need to drill a hole for the air intake temp sensor in the tube. And use a grommet. Or just drill a hole into your filter and use the rubber that you just drilled into as your grommet. Hopefully your intake tube came with a barb. If it didn't make on for a vac line. Prefferably not in sight like mine is You now need to run a small filter off the valve cover breather barb. Why not just connect it to the intake tube like a stock srt? Cause it will not work properly so just put on some hose and a small filter. Ok so your intake tube fits good. Take it out. 8O
Now install your vac solenoids and run all the vac lines. Mount the solenoids where you see fit. I hid mine under the battery tray and zip tied the solenoids bracket to the wiring harness as well as the vac lines(not too tight there) to keep them from getting in the shifter linkage.

You almost forgot about your fuel vapor filter!! Mount it where you want to away from the exhaust. Where did I put it? The charcoal canister has the fuel vapor hose running into it. Pull it off. Now look at how the charcoal canister is secured. There is a bracket. You can undo the bracket and slide the hose you just popped off throught the bottom of this bracket and out the top. Connect your little filter to the top side. Close the bracket and your done.(try to get a picture of this sometime)


Now go back inside your car and fit int he srt cluster if you haven't already. This takes some trimming of the cluster and the dash. I trimmed all the screw tabs off the top of the srt cluster. I then tried to fit it in. It's not happening. Take some angled sheet metal cutters and start trimming the cluster housing(The dash). Fit the cluster and try to get the dash on. Using your better judgement continue this process until it fits good. Secure the cluster? NO I didn't. It is held down with pressure from the top dash. I had to trim some of the inner cluster bezel so it would not rub the face of the srt cluster.

More fun with wires? Yup..Time for horn and windshield washer pump motor. Well the horn and the washer pump motor on the srt are located on the pasenger side. Well you don't really want to run wires that far. Time to open up the pdc/headlamp harness loom near the foglights(or if you don't have foglights..near the foglights if you had them).
Windshield washer pump motor srt wires
1.V10 18BR WASHER PUMP CONTROL SWITCH OUTPUT<--in srt harness
2. Ground I ran a ground from the 1st gen connector to the body.
Windshield washer pump motor 1st gen wires
1. V10 18BR waher pump Motor Feed
2. Z1 Ground

Horn wires for srt
1. Z1 18BK (2.4L TURBO) GROUND<--in srt harness
2. X2 18DG/RD (2.4L TURBO) HORN RELAY OUTPUT<--in srt harness
Horn wires from the 1st gen connector
1. Z1 20BK Ground
2. X2 20DG/RD Horn Feed
Splice those wires up.

Throttle cable. I used the 1st gen long cable. I trimmed the srt throttle bracket slot for the cable. All I did was dremel out a piece of the slot to make it wide enough for the 1st gen cable to snap in. I don't know if the srt cable will connect to the gas pedal properly. My cable makes a U-turn behind my intake manifold.

Installation of the fuel tank and filler kneck(fuel door as well) can be done whenever if need be. I won't write a how to for that. It's pretty straight forward. I did use the 1st gen steel tank straps from what I remember.
For the fuel line from hardline to rail I used an srt line. I had to twist the connector on the line to fit the rail better and I looped it around the thermo housing. a dohc fuel line might work better. I don't know if it would or not.{edit. I have since switched to a dohc line; fits much better than the srt line}
See pics at bottom to view dohc fuel line.


Hook up your boost gauge. I used the srt factory boost lines. I connected the boost line to the extra brake booster nipple. The boost line is preinstalled in the srt harness. There is another one on the interior harness it connects to. Then that leads to the top dash. the connector for the boost gauge light is up there as well. Feel free to hook it up.

Go around and check everything. You will have quite a few leftover connectors in the engine bay. Get them out of the way. Fill up all your fluids if you havn't already. Start her up. If she didn't start you did something wrong. I canot tell you what you did wrong. If you made a wiring error you are pretty much screwed. Ensure you make good connections with solder and heatshrink everything. I heatshrink then wrap it in electrical tape to be on the safe side.
If your brake warning lamp stays on then I Don't know on that one either. Mine stays on and I rewired it 5 times.

Update
SRT Power steering in and fully functional.
Parts used
Torque react strut bracket(just a fancy name for the ac/lower mount bracket that holds the compressor.
Srt/pt turbo power steering pump
Srt power steering lines
Srt power steering bracket
Srt/pt belt tensioner part # 04668509AD
Srt/pt non ac belt part # 04668444AD
Srt/pt idle pulley part #04668588AA
1st gen power steering pressure switch and connector

The idle pulley replaces the ac compressor pulley. The tensioner is different than an older one I had(04668509AC) The newer revised one was thicker(the pulley part) I had tried the older version at first because I couldn't find the newer one I bought. The older version was bent slightly and didn't cover the belt very good. Actually it's the same width as the belt. The newer one is a good 1/3in wider than the belt and holds good. So if you have a chance to get a used tensioner..check the part number(the belt might have slipped just due to the slight bend on the tensioner but I don't think the small width of the pulley helped).

I didn't use the Srt P-side mount bracket but rather the stratus bracket so I don't have the P/s pump brace on it. I simply used the srt p/s bracket and used two 5/16in X 3.5in bolts through the the bracket and pump with nuts and washers on the other side to hold the pump in place. I did use the one threaded bolt hole with the proper bolt for the thrid hole.

A few pics






The power steering lines ran pretty much like how they would ont he srt. I had to run the lines under the fmm bracket then up. They bolt to the oil pan than run to the rack. The cooler is currently secured with heavy duty zip ties until I can get to a friends and get it up to drill the kframe for the cooler bolt holes.
I did not try the srt p/s pressure switch...because I lost it..... and forgot about it lol.
edit again..I took the pins out of hte srt power steering pressure switch connector and put them in the 1st gen one..direct fit. Sensor works 100%.
Written by Dajokerx2
I don't think I forgot anything but I will re-read this tonight and make sure I didn't forget anything. I did not put info on how to splice the 1st gen rear harness. And I most likely will not. Just use the rear harness from an srt; I don't want to re-research those wires.
If I forgot a connector or switch please feel free to yell at me and I'll update the list.
This is not the defenitive way of doing to swap. There are other ways and I'm sure someone will ridicule my way; but my car runs great and I have had no problems(except that motor mount bracket thing).
Please ask questions if you have any. Pm's on this are getting old really fast.
I have been asked by a few members from multiple online forums how much I would charge for the swap.
If you are local and have lots of money and a place to do the swap with lots of tools(air tools). Message me. But don't waste my time. This swap takes a while and you should expect to have your car down for a while. So I reccomend to anyone doing this swap they should have another car to drive while their swap is in progress. It will not happen overnight.
My swap completed..and of course, it's not done!!










Have fun with it.
Later
Jake

If you have any questions..Ie possible other ways to do such and such I can give insight. I never stopped researching shortcuts or possible alternatives for this swap and have a ton of info.
Ask away..but do it in this thread to share with everyone else...do not pm me; it will be ignored.

Later
Jake

Thank you for putting this back up

omg such amazing info at the rite time. realy appreciated.

thank you.

-trev

If it is alright with you Jake, in the next week or so, I am going to move this over to the archived posts.

Thanks for posting this.

Could I have permissions to edit in my updates when it's moved please?
Thanks
Later
Jake

Well, if you have updates to do, I will just sticky it here until it is complete.

what kind of issues did you have with the axles, shift linkage, drivetrain, etc. Could we use a "painless" wiring harness. Is ther any way to utilize the 04 wiring harness to the 99 model or are we just going to have to do alot of splicing.

Do you have any info on using 1st gen wiring with a megasquirt running the NGC firmware.

-Trev

Any problems I had are lsited in the how to.
I'm not sure what all painless includes. I assume you could get a large aftermarket connector and cut and pin wires for it at the firewall or in the cabin. That would make it "like stock" and safer than tons of splicing. Using all the srt wiring is the way I finally went with after splicing and splicing at the kickpanel.
I did lose my door ajar switches in the process of using all the srt wiring but I could always extend that wire from the kickpanel and then a round to all the doors easily; probably do that this year along with getting my power locks working and SRT RKE(need to splice on the 1st gen connector to the srt door harnesses), run the rear harnesses as well. Power mirrors I need to run 1 wire since the srt uses a 3 wire setup where 1st gen uses 4; again..not a big deal.

I don't know megasquirt.

I'll update pin out matching on the rear harness's lighting when I get a chance.
Later
Jake

I'm guessing you used the srt tranny, it hooks rite up to the stock driveshaft?

can you show me any pictures of underneath the car so i can get a better idea of what i'm getting into.

thanks for the info

-trev

It says in the title what trans I used.
There's really not much to see under the car. It's crappy out for the next few days. Maybe monday I'll snap a pic.
Later
Jake

I'm going to be starting the same project swapping the srt-4 motor and tranny in but the question I have to ask is that I bought a complete srt-4 car that was totaled and well I think I have everything I need so if you could get back to me with any info on what I can do with this cuz noticing what you did was splice into wires and such well I don't think I'll need to do that but if you can get back to me with any help. thanx

If you read the entire how to you would see I originally spliced the rear harness in. I later went back and used all uncut dash, rear and door harnesses to make it a cleaner swap; which was edited in, in red, near the top of the how to.
Some connectors still need to be spliced on to match the srt harness. Heater blower, wiper motor etc are all srt connectors on both sides in my car. Wiring shouldn't take long if you use all the wiring.
As far as letting you know what to do..I'm really not sure what you're asking me.

Later
Jake

I'm hearing that the car wont be able to be lowered because the transmission hangs too low. I this true?

-Trev

Since it uses the same transmission that came in a Neon, I cannot see that being the case.

I've talked with a couple people that have used the srt tranny; one used the srt frame modified..couldn't lower it I believe they said due to the axles?..I am not sure why; maybe they bottom out. The other guy I have talked to used the 1st gen modded frame; I don't know if he can lower it or not.
From what I can tell though it could be possible the tranny sits too low. Using the 1st gen the engine is dropped due to the mount setup as is the tranny. So maybe that is the case , as it does sit low enough when not lowered to actually hit the kframe; I can't be certain due to me not actually trying any of it.

I'll see if I can get in contact with a guy that used the 850 and have him chime in.

why did'nt you run a/c?

-trev

I don't need it..waste of space to me.

I started mine i just work on it when i have the time i completed the dash wiring and got it all back togeather and gauge cluster fit great after a lil shaving on the right side of the dash where the old one bolted to and cut out the back for the wires to go in further .. Thanks for the info helped me a good bit ill post pics sometime when its closer to done

Yeah the dash can be made to fit with a bit of trimming..it's the door panels that can turn into an issue for most.
Later
Jake

i have a question about the "SKIM" how did you get by with the VIN in the PCM and the SKIM module around the Ignition lock cylinder?

Do you know if the car will run with the Cluster removed like a 1st gen will?

i am diong this swap. but only engine and harness.
so far Head light to dash harness
Engine harness
Dash harness.
all thats the easy part. thehard part is the SKIM

i can use my SRT-4's VIN and buy a stage 1 PCM and buy a SKIM module.
what did you do? the stupid SKIM is my only draw back atm

Initially I used a new stage 1 pcm to get around sentry. Just unplug the skim and be all set.
I recently installed a used Stage 2. I had to obtain a chipped key with matching skim and the proper vin for the pcm. Using the srt dash harness I attatched the skim and taped the key to it. All set.

If you buy a skim it must be matched the the key/pcm. Dodge could progam it for you but they might want proof of ownership of whatever vin you are using.

The car will run without the cluster.

Later
Jake

ok thanks.
getting a code is not a problem for me i work at a dodge dealer ^^

it cost me as much if not cheaper depending on what i find a wreaked SRT-4 to buy all the parts and build the setup myself ^^

Why do you have to use a new ecu?

You don't have to..
If you get a srt computer with matching skim and matching chipped key you'd be all set or get matching key(s) and skim..get the vin and send a staged pcm off to flight systems for a flash to match. The new pcm's do not recognize the sentry system until introduced to it via the skim. Once the pcm has seen a skim the sentry system must be installed. more info on that is all over the org.

I am currently using a used s1 with the skim and key setup.
Later
Jake

Hey was just wondering if you could help me out with a problem? I got my swap done every thing works except the brake lights its a 95 car i wired every thing as it say cant figure it out help would be appreciated. thanks

Been meaning to fix mine..I have the same issue.
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=263363
Later
Jake

Free Bump.




Great work Jake, thanks so much for spending the time to write it up.

How much would you say you spent on just doing the engine swap?

When I did my engine swap srt parts were a hard to find item and what I paid then is not what is paid now. I will say I got my engine with 600 miles on it for 1750 shipped to my door. I'd say for just the engine swap you could get it done for the price of a parts srt(3-4k)..and misc parts needed; ie, mounts..possible fuel tank swap etc. Then sell leftover parts off the srt and lower the cost to 2500 or so..that wold be the best way to go.
Later
Jake

Where would you suggest getting an SRT parts car, I would need everything from the dash forward, umolested, and would prefer at least the front seats be usable. Would you suggest ebay? Or get in touch with Junk yards and tell them to be on the lookout?

What are all the sentry items? I'm thinking buy an srt donor car, and swap the dash to the first gen, because of the cluster issue. by doing that the wheel stalk would fit in too right? Along with the ignition, so I could use the SRT key for the ignition right? Also, the dash swap, whats involved with that?

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=239857

oh, thanks, I did a search and didnt find it

n/p its on the front of this thread. I would like to see a more info on the dash swap

I dont understand what he means by the glass part. Still cant find a list of the sentry items, if anyone knows what they are id apreciate help

Glass..as in fiberglassing the door panels...is that what you're talking about?
I don't know what else I could put up in the project log about the interior swap. I thought I was pretty thorough.
As far as sentry components just search the engine swap forum for sentry or skim and I'm sure you'll find an answer.
Later
Jake

Oh, lol. ok.

So you're not running a bobble strut and have no engine movement? What mounts are you using? They must be pretty damn solid...

Sorry I didn't update that. I have a vitor bobble now. My original mounts were AFX solid front, deyeme firm sides using no bobble. The bobble did reduce hop and there is virtually no difference in cabin noise.
Later
Jake