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 Post subject: Electrical Connector "how to"
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 4:38 pm 
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Neons have many electrical connectors and there are occasions when they need to be repaired or replaced. Electrical repairs can be intimidating so I have attempted to make this as simple as possible by using pictures. Although there are many styles of connectors, they do have some general similarities. Damaged connectors can be replaced by knowing how to disassemble the connectors. As far as I know all the different types of connectors can be disassembled.
Sometimes removing a connector can seem difficult and here are a few examples of connectors that were damaged from removal attempts:
Image
Image

If a connector has a red locking tab, it must first be unlocked. It helps to give the red locking tab a squirt of PB Blaster or similar penetrant. This will help the locking tab to slide rather than breaking it. This is a common connector shown in the locked position:
Image

The same connector unlocked: (Note that the release bar can now be depressed and if this was connected to a sensor, the connector would easily slide off.)
Image

Another common connector shown with the red locking tab in the locked position: (This type is quite fragile and it helps to push from the other side of the red tab with a small screwdriver at the same time as you try to pull the red locking tab out.)
Image

Same connector shown unlocked:
Image

The injector connectors that have red locking tabs are frequently broken. Once unlocked the release bar must be depressed: (I've cut apart a few connectors to show what they look like internally.)
Image

Now that the connector is off, it can be disassembled. Usually there is a different color plastic piece over the terminals. This must be pried off. Some connectors like the following injector connector have a release bar for this piece:
Image

Once that different colored plastic piece is removed, the terminal locking bar can be pushed away from the terminal to release the terminal and wire: (As soon as you feel the terminal is free, pull the wire out of the connector. It may feel really tight as the wire terminal exits the silicone seal in the back of the connector.)
Image

Oxygen sensor connectors do not have red locking tabs and release by pulling the release bar away from the connector rather than pressing down. There are other similar connectors that release this way so if pressing down doesn't do anything, try pulling the release bar away from the connector and at the same time pull the connector apart. Here is an O2 connector release bar in the unlock position:
Image

Disassembling the O2 sensor connector is different from all the others. There is a release tab at the wire side of the connector that needs to be pushed down. Once depressed the connector easily comes apart:
Image

The terminals are held by plastic fingers that can be spread to release them:
Image

The female O2 sensor connector disassembles the same way:
Image

The terminals of many connectors can be adjusted to hug the pins by pushing a small screwdriver into the small square opening: (Look carefully where the pin would go to see which way to push.)
Image

Sometimes the whole connector has to be replaced with a newer style connector. You will need a solder iron, heat shrink tubing, a heat gun, and quality vinyl tape like Scotch 3M Super 33+:
Image

The wires to be cut should be staggered. Remove a small amount of insulation and then just push the stranded wires into each other (top wire).
Solder over the connected wires (middle wire).
Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the repair and apply heat (bottom wire).
Image
The wires should then be wrapped with the Super 33+.

Edit:
Use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. It protects the splice from the hostile underhood environment much better than regular heat shrink tubing.

The FSM uses abbreviations for the wire colors. Many wires have two colors, a main color and a thinner tracer color. For example DG/OR. Dark Green is the main color and Orange is the tracer color. When possible, use the same color wire when making repairs. The best source for extra wire with the correct colors is the junkyard.
This is the abbreviation list:
BL = Blue
BK = Black
BR = Brown
DB = Dark Blue
DG = Dark Green
GY = Gray
LB = Light Blue
LG = Light Green
OR = Orange
PK = Pink
RD = Red
TN = Tan
VT = Violet
WT = WT
YL = Yellow

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 4:44 pm 
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nice post. getting those connectors torn apart can be frustrating some times. nice to see a how-to on this.


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical Connector "how to"
PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 9:51 am 
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alpinegreenneon wrote:
Once that different colored plastic piece is removed, the terminal locking bar can be pushed away from the terminal to release the terminal and wire: (As soon as you feel the terminal is free, pull the wire out of the connector. It may feel really tight as the wire terminal exits the silicone seal in the back of the connector.)
Image

This is the part that always gets me, Some are very straightforward,
other's, like the CTS or injector really are hard as hell for me to remove
because it's hard to see the 'terminal locking bar' or get at it.

And the new style coil/Cam pos/ Crank ... They suck..

If you had details on the difficult one's, it'd go from a great to a super
great post...

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Last edited by UptownSport on Mon Aug 20, 2007 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 4:27 pm 
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I prefer to just splice new(er) connectors on but I've "repaired" some of mine this way, lasted long enough lol.

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 Post subject: Re: Electrical Connector "how to"
PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 6:49 pm 
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UptownSport wrote:
alpinegreenneon wrote:
Once that different colored plastic piece is removed, the terminal locking bar can be pushed away from the terminal to release the terminal and wire: (As soon as you feel the terminal is free, pull the wire out of the connector. It may feel really tight as the wire terminal exits the silicone seal in the back of the connector.)
Image

This is the part that always gets me, Some are very straightforward,
other's, like the CTS or injector really are hard as hell for me to remove
because it's hard to see the 'terminal locking bar' or get at it.

And the new style coil/Cam pos/ Crank ... They suck..

If you had details on the difficult one's, it'd go from a great to a super
great post...


The connector shown on that pic is an injector connector and if you look closely, you can see how deep the terminal release bar engages the terminal. I chose to section that type of connector because it is one of connectors that I have had trouble disassembling . The coil, cam position, and crank position connectors are much easier to get the terminals to release. All these pics are from junkyard connectors and I would encourage anyone who has a problem with a connector, to get a few junkyard connectors and practice on those or even section a connector to see exactly how it's put together so you can take it apart.

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97 Expresso Coupe Black ATX stock (daughter's)
97 Sport Coupe Magenta ATX stock (wife's)
95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical Connector "how to"
PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 10:18 pm 
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alpinegreenneon wrote:
The coil, cam position, and crank position connectors are much easier to get the terminals to release.


Ya I did it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, although it wasn't pretty lol.

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 Post subject: Re: Electrical Connector "how to"
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 5:42 am 
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chipdogg wrote:
alpinegreenneon wrote:
The coil, cam position, and crank position connectors are much easier to get the terminals to release.


Ya I did it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, although it wasn't pretty lol.


The FSM shows a bunch of special tools (Miller 6807, 6680, 6932, and 6934). I find the very small flat blade screwdriver shown in the pics is very useful and works in every connector. I got it at sears a long time ago. You can fab one from an old screwdriver or almost any piece of metal or wire or nail. Use a grinder, go slow and don't overheat the metal.

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95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:35 pm 
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Probably gonna have to replace the CTS connector, since I damaged one of the tabs and sporadically it loosens and triggers a CEL. Any name for it?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 8:16 am 
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I'm not sure if Chrysler has a name for their connectors. GM calls their type connector "WeatherPak". Instead of looking for a new connector from an electrical supply house, just get a few from the junkyard. Disassemble or cut one apart to learn first and then take the one on your harness apart. If you have good soldering skills, just splice in another good connector and don't forget to slide a piece of heatshrink tubing on each wire before you solder the wires together. After soldering, slide the heatshrink tubing over the repair and apply heat. Should look like the pic.

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95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:29 am 
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my problem is I have the wires mess up on the downstream o2 on the harness side. Thinking of a junkyard run and just splicing it back in. Is this easier from the top with the airbox off?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 5:18 pm 
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I discovered some time after the fact that the dealership, while working on the engine at some point, had broken quite a few of those locking tabs.

Didn't notice in time to really complain. Nothing has fallen off, but...it's irritating.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:11 am 
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plymouth_neon_1998 wrote:
I discovered some time after the fact that the dealership, while working on the engine at some point, had broken quite a few of those locking tabs.

Didn't notice in time to really complain. Nothing has fallen off, but...it's irritating.


That's what started my interest in these connectors. When the dealer did the MLS headgasket, they broke the connector for the EGR solenoid. I lived with it until I bought a parts car for an MTX swap for my son's Neon. I had nothing to lose, so I played with that connector until I had it apart and replaced that broken locking tab. When I did the headgasket again (dealer did a slip and slide), I realized they also broke 3 of the four injector connectors locking tabs. Once we added used Neons to the family, even more broken connectors turned up. It's common but easily repaired thanks to the abundance of junkyard Neons.

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95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:31 am 
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do even the best soldering jobs change the voltage seen by the PCM? for some sensors like the O2, TPS, or CT, a small change in voltage could make a big difference, right?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:42 pm 
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a good solder (nice and shiny and strong) will flow electricity just as well as the wire. the PCM wont know.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 2:42 pm 
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i just got done soldering my 3 tps wires, then i wrapped each in individual one in electrical tap (A LOT) then i wrapped the 3 closer together, then ziptied em, hopefully it lasts niceley


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:46 pm 
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When you solder wires, push the strands into each other and solder. It should be as good as the original uncut wire. There should be no change in the wires resistance if done properly. It should look just like the pic, nice and shiny. If it looks dull, that is a "cold solder" and that would have an effect on the resistance.

Image

The adhesive on plain vinyl electrical tape will become a mess because of the engine heat. Heat shrink tubing and 3M Super 33+ would have been much better. The oem harness tape is the best, but is hard to find. I believe this is the web site:
http://www.plymouthrubber.com/

Anyone know a retail source?

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95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:27 pm 
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Great post - helped many times!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:45 am 
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As some of you know, I've recently had my fuel tank out and was working on the fuel pump electrical connector (inside the tank).

I'm somewhat confused to discover the neither the connector inside the tank not the similar connector n the outside have rubber seals in them.

egardless, the outside connector was clean as a whistle while the one inside the tank was somewhat corroded. (water in the tank obviously).

Coop

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:05 pm 
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If you look at the pics, the actual seal may not be externally visible on all connectors.
This type of connector shows the red ribbed seal:
Image
The fuel injector connectors that I cut apart had the seal well hidden. I would think the connector inside the fuel tank would have a seal. I'll try to remember to pick up one of those connectors the next time I'm at the junkyard.

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97 Expresso Coupe Black ATX stock (daughter's)
97 Sport Coupe Magenta ATX stock (wife's)
95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:59 pm 
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I'm pretty sure it's not there and that there's no room for it.

Also missing is the bit at the back of the harness, kinda clipped tp the back where the wires go into the connector...neither the internal or external has this.

But the little clips are there.

It's a strange setup if you ask me. The connector, if used anywhere else would have one of those red sliders, the space is there for it, but it can'tr be used on this application.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:43 pm 
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Good post! It was just what I needed to motivate me to swap alternator connectors for the new alternator :D

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:44 am 
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question about soldering. It says in the post to push the wires together, what is the best surface to solder on. I used a scrap piece of 2x4 it seems to work ok, but I am thinking something like ceramic or porcelain tile. something that wont conduct any heat away from the joint. any other ideas?

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1999 NEON DOHC R/T 11.5:1 comp, forged weisco pistons, eagle rods. P&P head, intake, crane 18's, rhodes lifters, PT rockers and clutch, iceman, TTi LT header, 58mm TB, apexi neo fuel controller, running E85
1996 NEON DOHC SPORT COUPE parted out after 7 years of service
mods: drop in K&N, 52mm TB, mopar PCM
1993 MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR-4 sold
mods:slotted, drilled rotors, custom cat back exhaust


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:46 pm 
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Does anyone have a spare CamPS plug from a '95 DOHC they don't need?

On the NYG, both the connector and the sensor are chewed up. They're staying connected only by the rubber seal

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:25 pm 
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rockyrunner99 wrote:
question about soldering. It says in the post to push the wires together, what is the best surface to solder on. I used a scrap piece of 2x4 it seems to work ok, but I am thinking something like ceramic or porcelain tile. something that wont conduct any heat away from the joint. any other ideas?


All the wiring on the Neon is stranded wire. This makes it convenient to solder because the strands of each cut end overlap each other and stay together when you push the cut ends into each other. Instead of soldering on a surface, I just put the tip of the soldering iron under the wires in mid air. As the wires heat up for a second or so, I touch the wires from above with the piece of solder. It melts and penetrates around the wire strands and then I move the tip of the iron away, it cools and the splice is perfect almost every time. The splice should look shiny and smooth. If it looks dull and porous, that is called a cold solder joint and it should be redone.

When you want to remove the tape from a section of wiring harness, a very good tool to use is a seam ripper from your wife's/girlfriend's sewing kit. Slide the long end under the tape and push. The blade part will safely cut the tape without cutting the wires under the tape. Don't use a utility knife/box cutter or insulation and wires could get damaged.

Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing is better that the plain heat shrink tubing I used to use.
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98 Sport Coupe Alpine Green ATX stock
98 Sport Coupe Amethyst ATX to MTX swap (son's)
97 Expresso Coupe Black ATX stock (daughter's)
97 Sport Coupe Magenta ATX stock (wife's)
95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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 Post subject: Re: Electrical Connector "how to"
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:24 am 
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There is a part number for adhesive lined heat shrink tubing:
5019912AA
4778570 $2.50 list $1.73 net
SLEEVE HEAT SHRINK

Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing can also be purchased in bulk from places like Digi-Key:
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=3M+adhesive+lined+heat+shrink+tubing
Connectors can be purchased from Chrysler. This link has the part numbers:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/conkits/index.htm

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98 Sport Coupe Amethyst ATX to MTX swap (son's)
97 Expresso Coupe Black ATX stock (daughter's)
97 Sport Coupe Magenta ATX stock (wife's)
95 NYG ACR Coupe (restored to stock)
03 Dakota QC 4.7 4x4 ATX Patriot Blue stock

Can your key can be made from one of the free keys?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=402268


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