Separate Battery box from Fuse box

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russb wa
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Separate Battery box from Fuse box

Post by russb wa » Mon Oct 03, 2016 4:48 pm

I have all the bolts out of the BB, including the two down below, but can't get the fuse box to detach from BB. I figured the Fuse box would slide up from the BB. Pushed the tabs in and out, hammered lightly on the BB next to the connection ... Maybe some grit down in the connection mount. I don't know if the Fuse box is supposed to slide up or down. And, I don't know if the latch tab goes toward or away from the FB?

I know I sound like a weakling or something. Sorry for the sissyfied question. :negative:

I am just getting started on my first Neon, 98 RT. The PO got to 180,000+ before the belt went.

OK, I got it!! It took a little more light and the tabs push toward the FB. FB pulls up. :grin:

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jimbo in MI
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Re: Separate Battery box from Fuse box

Post by jimbo in MI » Mon Oct 03, 2016 5:17 pm

You sometimes need a small screwdriver to depress the tabs, but most of the time you can push the tab, and wiggle one side of the box past the tab, then repeat on the other side. You have to be pretty coordinated to push both tabs and lift, so do one side than other and finally lift the whole box off battery tray.
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russb wa
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Re: Separate Battery box from Fuse box

Post by russb wa » Mon Oct 03, 2016 5:34 pm

Yep, putting one of the lower bolts back in made things easier too. Thanks!! I'm pretty slow. Gonna pull the engine so I can see what all should be done.

occasional demons
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Re: Separate Battery box from Fuse box

Post by occasional demons » Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:14 am

Assuming the timing belt is still broken/potentially damaged valves, unfortunately you can't do a compression test to see how good the cylinder condition is, as far as cranking pressure.

Unless you know how well the service was kept up with, at 180,000 with R/T gearing, the internal condition of the engine is anyone's guess, so pulling it and giving it a good inspection is probably the best route.

Don't let good looking cylinder walls fool you though. If they spec out good, hone them, and at least install new rings. You can pick up new pistons (aftermarket) for pretty cheap though. If you are keeping it N/A or stock compression ratio...

The DOHC that was in my '99 had near zero compression for #1 cylinder, Everything looked to be in nice shape, valves were sealing, nothing ugly going on with the cylinder wall, piston looked nice. The only thing I can figure is the rings were worn enough they weren't pushing against the cylinder wall well enough anymore.

The blocks are pretty tough, and don't generally develop much ring ridge. That engine had 236,000 miles on it, and the pistons pushed easily out the top.
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