High output alternator?

Post by **thoffmeyer** » Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:57 pm

I didn't know where else to post this since this is related to my stereo. Two questions.. First one is if I run two battery's off my 83amp stock alternator will it help it on its way out.. Since my amp pulls way to much juice because the car acts funny when the fuse is plugged in.. Besides the dimming headlights.. Or does anyone know where to get a h/o alt for a 1gn. Autozone, AAP, Napa, nobody has them besides maybe an 85amp one.. My amp is a 860watt bridged with one 12. Like I said car runs rough when it's hooked up. Have the amp grounded to the top strut mount in the trunk.. Don't think it's a ground issue.

98 neon sohc, 680 cca / 725 @ 32 battery.

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Post by **OhioHomesteader** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:50 am

For giggles and grins look at this -->> http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f ... nator+amps

Post by **Mitsuru** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:07 am

why not get a minivan/caravan/voyager alternator as the v6 is
about 130+ amp and swap it with your original neon one.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:18 am

What amp is it? If its truly 860 watts total, there's no reason you should have problems with power for it unless you alt is going bad. Im running over 1000 watts total, and even at full blast with dubstep, my lights don't dim. Stock almost 200,000 mile alt and 3batt year old basic everstart battery.

Post by **Purpose** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:42 am

http://www.lfsracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=LFSODP

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:57 am

I suggest figuring out what's wrong before throwing parts at it. At 860 watts rms, the only way you'd see more than a 55 amp draw would be if you were playing test tones at full volume with low battery voltage, and that's if the amp is class ab, if its class d that number goes down even more.

Get back to me on what amp it is, brand and model number, as well as the impedance you'd driving with it.

Post by **thoffmeyer** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 11:35 am

When I bought the neon they said they put a new alt in it... Doubt it since it makes a high pitched squeal all the time. The headlights and all lights for that fact dim a lot. I'll get back with you fail when the wife gets home from work. Thanks all

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Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 11:38 am

pt alternator is supposedly a drop in, and 130 amps. and PS, i have an RF t1000b/d amp, running 1 12 inch T2 at 1 ohm. it makes the lights dim. it will make the lights dim on anything short of a semi. (im also running my car off 2 small lawn mower style batteries. 1 in the fender, the other in the trunk

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:04 pm

A t1000 can draw 114 amps at full output with a 1ohm load, doesnt surprise me that peaks dim the lights, if your using the whole 1000 watts.

For the OP, i gotta know the amp to know the efficiency, power output, etc. But, it shouldnt be causing the car to run bad, because constant draw will never be as high as peak draw, unless you listen to test tones. Most music has at least a 3db crest ratio, even rap and dubstep, meaning constant draw would be half of peak draw. Most modern music is more around 6-9db, which means 25%to 12.5% of peak for the constant draw.

Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:27 pm

my specific setup is actually capable of, and im sure actually hits(tho i have no way of testing it) up to about 1200 watts(yes on a 1000 watt rated amp) also the lower frequencies you push through an amp, the higher the load to keep the Db. most people crank the gain(bad) and itll keep it closer to the peak output for longer.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:45 pm

Yep, I saw on the website that it was capable of something like 1350 transient, just figured I would give a rough easy number.

And yep, cranking the gain into clipping is a definately way to increase the average power over time without increasing the peaks, how he set his gains is actually my follow up question for when he posts what amp and what load its seeing.

I'll probably up my alternator with one from DC Power (thanks to Wootah for getting finding a legit high output alt that puts out a ton of power at idle). Right now I'm my gains are set so the sub gets about 600, the mids get 150 each, and the tweeters have a possible 70 each (although they never see that much). But, I am about to upgrade and add a dedicated midbass that will get about 240 a piece, a dedicated midrange that will get 150-225 a peice (whatever gets them level matched with the midbasses), the tweeters will stay on the same amp, and going from 1 10" sub to two 15"s in an infinite baffle setup, so they will probably use 500 watts total.

Post by **thoffmeyer** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:41 am

Sorry was going to post info last night but I obviously made somebody mad and they did some malicious "activites" to my house.. Lol.. Anyways will have the details soon. Short of having the box. I can tell you a few things now..

It's a pioneer 820w amp
Kenwood 12

Like I said ill have more details soon. Thanks again guys

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Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:01 am

theyre prolly jealous cuz your drivin that *sweet* neon around..

mine looks like... well a 95 neon that got hit by a deer. so nobody cares about mine... till i walk em off the line. so many mustangs have lost it because they go light... feeling sorry for my rustbucket... suckers!!!!

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 2:49 pm

Im going to guess that its this one here.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_377 ... 5500T.html

If so, and the gains are set properly, the average power draw from that amp would be no more than 53 amps, assuming a voltage level of 12.5 volts, and 49 amps with a more normal 13.5 volts at the battery. And thats playing a test tone at full volume, playing music would result in an average draw of about 25 amps or less. Something is definately wrong somewhere, either with the amps wiring, or the car itself. Or the alt is going out. I'm running more than twice that much power, and I dont have any problems at all, as is sparky.

Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 2:51 pm

this sparky

... theres a few sparkys here

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:09 pm

^yep, you sparky.

Sonic says 400rms when bridged at 4ohms. 820 peak, but that may be clipped to almost square.

Post by **NickKo** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:31 pm

sparkysneonsport wrote:pt alternator is supposedly a drop in, and 130 amps.

It is.
It will bolt in / plug right in, like it grew there.

You'll want the PT Naturally Aspirated Alternator.
Mine was 120A - I believe that is the spec.

You could use the Turbo PT alternator, it is even more powerful - but that is larger, and will require some modification, to fit.

If you do this, I recommend upgrading your output wiring, to be on the safe side.

- Nick

Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:54 am

big 3 ftw! instead of getting that heavy stereo speaker cable... which is leaf spring juicing expensive in a size that makes a difference(2g-00g depending on your alternator output. sounds overkill, but check you voltage drop over that oe cable, then over a 0g cable and try to tell me it was a waste...) so i hip up a junkyard and raided 2 mercedes, about early to mid 80s and pulled the battery cables. they go from the trunk to the engine bay. one was enough, but i wanted 2 to be safe. these are somewhere between 2g and 0g, theyre mercedes so you know theyre decent quality, and the daimler(mercedes) name in chrysler means ITS ALREADY A DODGE PART! BOOYA!!

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:16 am

Definately check all your wiring, and have your alternator checked. With your amp, theres really no meed for anything above a stock alt, unless you dont mind spending.

Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:33 am

also think about it this way. a stock alternator for another car is rated to put out an average of X amount of amps at an average engine speed over X miles/years.

put the stock PT alternator into a neon, and its putting out X-NEON amps, at average engine speed + ratio of amp draw decrease.

in practice it wont work out quite like that, but itll likely take whatever you throw at it, and last longer than a standard neon replacement would

Post by **thoffmeyer** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:37 am

Fail, that's my amp, and it is bridged. Sorry for the delay.. When I bought the car the previous owners said they put a "new" alternator and starter in it. Starter is new, but the alternator looks stock/original. Bunch of peanut had the alternator tested and it was pushing out 14.25 volts with no draw. Everything tested fine, I plan on doing the "big 3" but I think my alternator is going out.

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w00tah · Post by **w00tah** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:50 pm

If your alt is going out, it wouldn't be anywhere near 14 volts.

Big 3 is a huge improvement in our cars, the factory wiring is laughable.

Alt choices are limited to the PT alts, and if that's not enough, DC Power makes alts. I can get a fresh price quote if you want.

Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:11 pm

also if you have about 2-350 bucks sittin around... you can go hit up a junkyard, pull an alternator, and take it to any alternator/starter/auto electrical shop. they can rewind it for higher output, at lower rpms too.

might be able to get a better deal if you get chummy with someone there. buy em a six pack or summin

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:34 pm

One thing with the test, if the alt is still out, have it tested by a second place. My moms alt was dying, and I took it in to have it tested. First place said it was fine. I stopped a second place on the way back and they said it was dead. Replaced it and all problems were gone.

Post by **sparkysneonsport** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:56 pm

autostoned and pepboned are NOT the places to go to get it tested. unless at least 2 of each are around. theyll say its bad just to sell a new one. or if theyre swamped, theyll say its fine just to get you out of the store. make sure you can see them test it. and watch the display on the machine so you know what theyre seeing

Post by **thoffmeyer** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:05 pm

Went to AAP I have a few friends that work there and I know the manager. Only place I deal with, I know I can have it rewound but haven't called around on it yet.. I'll figure out what to do.. Probably later than sooner (when the damn thing just quits working) :P

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Post by **Purpose** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:00 pm

I have a used pt/GT alternator. PM if interested.

Post by **Rob13** » Wed May 02, 2012 4:01 pm

I got a 170 amp alt from Ebay and I think they had a bigger one

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · Post by **TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL** » Wed May 02, 2012 5:01 pm

Did it come with a graph showing how much it makes and where? Most of those ebay alts only make more power at max rpm. Most of them dont make anymore power at idle.

buxacr · Post by **buxacr** » Wed May 02, 2012 7:17 pm

Rewind an SRT-4 alt. (140 amp) stock, You can get 180 out of them with modded winding's. Run it with an ol Mopar performance external regulator (adjustable with knob) and turn it up with the VOLUME! "Watch the gauge's close though'.

CanIPlayWith_Madness · Post by **CanIPlayWith_Madness** » Thu Feb 11, 2016 6:51 pm

So which alternator is a direct bolt-in upgrade in amps for my car?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

occasional demons · Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Feb 11, 2016 7:41 pm

Direct plug and play would be the 2005 neon alternator, or the N/A PT Cruiser alternator. 120 amp
5033253AA - New Part Number: RL033253AA, which means it is only available from Mopar as a reman unit.

MSRP $307.00
Core $40.00

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... A&_sacat=0

CanIPlayWith_Madness · Post by **CanIPlayWith_Madness** » Mon Feb 15, 2016 6:57 pm

occasional demons wrote:Direct plug and play would be the 2005 neon alternator, or the N/A PT Cruiser alternator. 120 amp
5033253AA - New Part Number: RL033253AA, which means it is only available from Mopar as a reman unit.

MSRP $307.00
Core $40.00

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... A&_sacat=0

You are a god amongst mortal men.

I'm actually not sure if amongst is a real word but you get the picture. I am thankful.

I purchased a new TYC at Rockauto.

HottRodd · Post by **HottRodd** » Sat Feb 27, 2016 9:25 am

The 2005 neon alternator with 120 amps - How much amps at idle .no matter how many extra amps these higher output units seem to give (according to needs) what I'm interested in is more amps at idle . Checked Mechman and DC power ,they don't seem to have a drop in model for Neon/2.0sx anymore. Maybe local alt shop IS the only way to go. Oh right, any way to tell pcm to regulate voltage from 13.7 volts to 14.2 volts or do I need 2005 neon pcm too

CanIPlayWith_Madness · Post by **CanIPlayWith_Madness** » Sat Feb 27, 2016 9:42 am

Ya, DC has the best all around and at idle especially. I bought one of theirs for my last car. Damn hit-and-run driver obliterated it.

I purchased a TYC alternator for 05 Cruiser as recommended above. Just haven't installed it yet. haha.

HottRodd · Post by **HottRodd** » Sat Feb 27, 2016 10:21 am

I have here higher amp alternator # it's the Maniac #13735HO150 . I pm them .They said it puts out 150 amps at 1800 rpm and half that at 900 rpm . Does that solve my problem ,good question. Idle is at 600 to 700rpm and this is where I need more amps. How many amps does a normal alternator put out at idle? If this alternator gets 150 amps at 1800 rpm and 75 amps at 900 rpm that means 54.17 amps at 650 rpm (theoretically ) again How many amps at 650 rpm does a normal alt put out ? 54.17 amps doesn't seem enough (high amp alternator???

) my amplifier says 72 amps at 14.2 volts .Car would have to be moving just to crank volume. I am going to to talk to local alternator shop ,seems the only way to go

CanIPlayWith_Madness · Post by **CanIPlayWith_Madness** » Sat Feb 27, 2016 10:27 am

Well, an over-drive pulley would work for that, right? Problem is everyone and their sister websites sell only under-drive pulley's. It's a real headache finding them. At least it was for my last car. I just got the Neon from my Sister when she bought a new car so i'm not super knowledgeable about this car.

CanIPlayWith_Madness · Post by **CanIPlayWith_Madness** » Sat Feb 27, 2016 10:30 am

And DC is really, really, really peanut expensive. Mechman, I'm not positive but their prices were fairly high but not as high as DC.

But as far as quality I don't believe anyone beats DC.

CanIPlayWith_Madness · Post by **CanIPlayWith_Madness** » Sat Feb 27, 2016 10:32 am

"leaf spring juice"

Hahahahah.

Sorry guys. I do curse a bit.

HottRodd · Post by **HottRodd** » Sat Feb 27, 2016 12:20 pm

Did a cold load test on my 120 amp alternator. IT'S -6° Celsius out side .it was charging at 14.6 volts then I turned on heater and stock radio (fan on high),it went down to 14 volts , (still great) Then the rear defrost it went down to 13.5 (perfect) charging nicely.Then I turned on my hid lights 55 watts ,Wow it dropped to 11.88 volts .peanut what a power hog .I thought they were supposed to take less power.There is my problem .Wonder how much power a LED setup takes ? Looks like the big 3 power line boost is also in order.Try that first ,if voltage still goes down ,LED lights all around and cross my fingers. Anyone use LED HEADLIGHTS ,is it really true they take less power?

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