front control arms

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jfertita90
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front control arms

Post by jfertita90 » Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:09 pm

Hey guys i'm new to this forum, i own a 2000 dodge neon and i'm trying to swap the control arms up front with Moog replacements. I'm having trouble getting the bolts free, and specifically i'm confused on how to get the horizontal bolt on the passengers side out. the frame is in the way of getting any kind of socket on there. also on the drivers side the horizontal bolt hits the transmission...

any help is greatly appreciated. thanks so much

HottRodd
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Re: front control arms

Post by HottRodd » Sat Apr 21, 2018 5:00 am

Friend is the bolt spinning? If so ......

Pt control arms are the same as a Neon . Usually an impact gun with a prelube say PB blaster every day for a week before you try to take it off. Some say if you tighten before you untighten, then tighten then untighten over and over again until it gets loose . If you do get it off ,put a new bolt in its place to stop the onslot of rust.
The 2003 2.0sx guy, 30k original miles :dance:
30k is that possible, Yeah :good: :

jfertita90
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Re: front control arms

Post by jfertita90 » Sat Apr 21, 2018 10:47 am

i got all bolt out now except the horizontal bolt and nut holding the ball joint to the wheel . someone please help me they are stripped i dont know how to get them out

bust0023
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Re: front control arms

Post by bust0023 » Sat Apr 21, 2018 12:03 pm

That's literally the easiest bolt to get out in the whole control arm swap. How did you manage that?!

If it's stripped and there's room, a chisel is a good method for loosening a nut. I don't know if there's quite the space for that. About 5 min in on this video.



Another method I've used is I hammer on a socket that's just a bit too small. I don't recall that size, so let's say it's 15mm.

15/25.4 = .590"
16*.590 = 9.44

So a 9/16" socket will be a tight fit to hammer on there. A 14mm will likely be too small. Warning-this will likely destroy your socket. I've only used this as a trail-fix and I don't have other options.

Last method, if you have a welder, is just weld a new nut on and loosen that up. It works really well, I think the biggest reason is the added heat from the weld helps it break free.
'99 R/T 2.4, Crane 16s, 10.5:1, PnP'd head and no-90 IM, LTH, 2.5" exhaust, AFXR, no PS/AC, UDP, ATX TB

1974 260Z, 2006 Magnum R/T AWD, 2016 Grand Caravan

Log: viewtopic.php?f=51&t=408917

jfertita90
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Re: front control arms

Post by jfertita90 » Sat Apr 21, 2018 12:17 pm

This car is from upstate new york, it has 75k on the odometer for an 18 year old car thats amazing. however it sat in the snow for years and years. everything is all rotted away. seems that someone has already tried to get into this because the bolts are stripped on the ball joint and mounting bracket for the sway bar bushings. im at a loss. can i just cut the ball joint bolt out? i tried getting a 9/16ths socket on there, i cant get it to hold without stripping it even more

HottRodd
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Location: Brossard, Quebec, Canada

Re: front control arms

Post by HottRodd » Sat Apr 21, 2018 12:40 pm

Don't have the tools do ya? You need something like this.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kp7DcpIZOHSj9d3J2
If your going to work on this car it might be a worthy investment
The 2003 2.0sx guy, 30k original miles :dance:
30k is that possible, Yeah :good: :

bust0023
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Re: front control arms

Post by bust0023 » Sat Apr 21, 2018 2:03 pm

Those may work. Cutting/grinding either the head or the shank off of the bolt and then punching it out would work, too. A metal chisel could be used to shear the bolt off as well, but you'll be there a while. I would be hesitant to drill as you could inadvertently drill into the knuckle.

If the control arm is unbolted, could you unbolt the sway bar link, brake caliper, tie rod, and strut, and remove the control arm/knuckle assembly and work on it on a bench top? It may give you much easier access to decimate that bolt.
'99 R/T 2.4, Crane 16s, 10.5:1, PnP'd head and no-90 IM, LTH, 2.5" exhaust, AFXR, no PS/AC, UDP, ATX TB

1974 260Z, 2006 Magnum R/T AWD, 2016 Grand Caravan

Log: viewtopic.php?f=51&t=408917

jfertita90
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Re: front control arms

Post by jfertita90 » Sat Apr 21, 2018 9:30 pm

my first try is going to be getting those extractor sockets for stripped bolts, i have hard time believing i have to go as far as to cut them off.. what do you guys think? what are my odds of success with the sockets??

HottRodd
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Location: Brossard, Quebec, Canada

Re: front control arms

Post by HottRodd » Sun Apr 22, 2018 6:34 am

If they bite they will work. Buy the appropriate set and you won't believe how you ever went without them .
The 2003 2.0sx guy, 30k original miles :dance:
30k is that possible, Yeah :good: :

JeremyJ
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Re: front control arms

Post by JeremyJ » Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:19 am

When installing the Moog arms, don't torque the big vertical bolts to factory specs; they'll just deform the washers and push into your frame. I had a hard time getting mine to tighten over 100 ft lbs without causing problems.
2002 Neon base -> 2005 SRT-4 ACR -> 1996 Dodge Neon sedan -> 1999 R/T Coupe -> 2002 R/T -> 2003 SRT-4

Build Thread: https://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=69296

jfertita90
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Re: front control arms

Post by jfertita90 » Tue Apr 24, 2018 12:10 pm

okay thanks guys, i'm trying to find a set of 1/2 inch drive bolt extractor sockets. do you guys think i could get it done with a 3/8 inch drive on the ball joint bolt and nut that i was referring to in the previous post? i'm having a hard time finding an extractor set local to me with a 1/2 inch drive

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NickKo
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Re: front control arms

Post by NickKo » Sat May 05, 2018 7:14 am

jfertita90 wrote: Tue Apr 24, 2018 12:10 pm okay thanks guys, i'm trying to find a set of 1/2 inch drive bolt extractor sockets. do you guys think i could get it done with a 3/8 inch drive on the ball joint bolt and nut that i was referring to in the previous post? i'm having a hard time finding an extractor set local to me with a 1/2 inch drive
I don't see why not. What do you have to lose at this point ??
But if you do manage to locate a 1/2 drive set, even better. Have you tried searching / shopping for this on-line ??

- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 52mm TB; Maddog STS
-1999 4-dr DOHC ATX= went to car heaven (junkyard)
-2000 Ply.LX with MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; R/T muffler + Header
-2001 Ddg.ES ATX = UDP, Magnum Header; + Syked PCM 'pending'

-1971 Ply.Scamp SL6cyl. ('Horse Traded' away)
-1968 Chry.300 w/440 V8 (sold)
"MoPar or No Car"

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MichNeon
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Re: front control arms

Post by MichNeon » Sat May 05, 2018 12:53 pm

When you go to put those lower control arm bolts back in, do yourself a favor, slather those bolts in anti sieze. That will make future removal much easier. The previous owner of my car did that, and i was very happy to have them come out without a fight. Also, don't forget to adjust the upper torque strut properly, or you'll have a vibration.
1995 Sport Sedan (The Frog), 2.0L sohc/atx, Bone Stock Canadian model, Belvidere built 4/94, 203,220 miles (327,052 kms) as of 01/30/16. Given to my brother. Sold, 07/01/2016. Was told it went to the junkyard in 2018, with more than 300,000 miles on it.
2004 R/T, Bone stock, 2.0L Magnum/mtx, Belvidere built 11/03, 246,157 miles as of 10/20/20, My current DD.
36 year Chrysler Tech.

jfertita90
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Re: front control arms

Post by jfertita90 » Tue May 15, 2018 2:11 pm

hey guys just wanted to update ya'll

I ended up going to Harbor Freight and i bought a set of 3/8" drive stripped bolt socket extractor set. I hammered the 17mm socket onto the nut of the ball joint pinch bolt and i was able to get it done. This job fought me the entire way, trying to loosen up bolts that had not been touched for 20 years was quite a task, needless to say i got both sides done and my steering feels much better. with the addition of the moog sway bar links, the clunky creaky noise in my steering is completely gone.

Time to move on to other tasks, thanks a lot guys!

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