1929 Willys Whippet SRT-4

Post by **srt4eh** » Sat Jan 03, 2015 11:58 pm

It's looking very clean - love it

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:25 pm

Gonna have a prop valve? And with 11" brakes in the rear whats gonna be up front?

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 7:13 am

redneckmoparman wrote:Gonna have a prop valve? And with 11" brakes in the rear whats gonna be up front?

Yep, it has a proportioning valve going to the back along with some 2 PSI residual pressure valves. The front is 9.5" discs.

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 7:24 am

I used the Eastwood Fast Etch product to clean up the rust on the frame and am pretty happy with how it turned out. They are not kidding when they said do it in a well ventilated area, I had my garage door half open and I still have a sore throat this morning from it. Next step is to use some acetone to clean the residue off and spray on the primer.

And After:

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:30 am

cool stuff! idk about the residual valves though.... theyre designed for drums to keep the caps on the wheel cylinder and will likely cause some nasty brake drag and tiny brakes up front! youll be able to tow with it though with that much rear brake lol

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 12:30 pm

I have talked to a few guys about this before and the consensus is that since the master cylinder is below the calipers you need a residual pressure valve to stop bleed back.

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 1:05 pm

hmmm okay will be interesting to see the result, looks good though! its getting close!

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 7:11 am

I finished coating it with the rust converter a few days ago then yesterday I cleaned it off with acetone and sprayed the first two layers of the primer on the frame. Today should be another layer of primer then some colour!

My biggest lesson learned was respect for the chemical in the rust converter. The first time I used it I had the garage half open and I ended up with a really bad sore throat which turned into a bad cold and made me feel like crap for a week. This time I ramped up my protection and had the door wide open.

Mr incredible · Post by **Mr incredible** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:40 am

chemicals will sneak up on you

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Thu Feb 26, 2015 2:14 pm

Making great progress. Finished assembling the front end and am just waiting on the flex brake lines for the front. All the back brake lines are completed. Will be installing the engine and transmission this weekend.

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:48 pm

So a few updates. Built a new shelf/TV stand so I can watch BBC Top Gear while I work now. Was also able to get the transmission back from rebuild and installed it and the new clutch onto the engine. Dropped the whole works in this afternoon and started finalizing the various components (axles, starter, boost piping, etc...). Next weekend I am attempting to finish rad piping and depending on deliveries might finish the clutch and fuel systems!

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:48 pm

That is just way too awesome. I LOVE it!!!!! Better progress than me too, but that will be changing here shortly! What kind of paint job are you going for? Rattle can, daily useable, or show quality?

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:00 pm

Body will be rough (no filler at all and I am not that great at metal work) so I am going with a flat black/flat dark grey two tone scheme. It will be painted early next month I hope.

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 1:45 am

So it will be a very useable and enjoyable car thats awesome. i hate seeing awesome cars finished so nicely that they refuse to use them, so i love your plan. Cant wait to see it driving!

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 8:51 pm

I was able to build the cooling lines out of some aluminized exhaust pipe and 4 different random rad hoses I cut up to make what I needed. Also made a battery tray and started routing the shifter cables.

Post by **c987long** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:53 am

i really have loved watching this build, well done so far!

RD RT 98 · Post by **RD RT 98** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 6:12 pm

Making good progress

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:12 am

I am to the point when I need some help from the smart people here. I am running a Stage 3 with toys ecu with the turbo, fuel rail and an AGP Stage 3 WGA.

I have all of the sensors/stuff hooked up to it but need advice on the following:

1. EVAP stuff is not hooked up either electronically or other. Other than throwing a code will it cause issues?
2. No downstream O2 installed. Cause fuel mapping to go crazy?
3. Recommendations for the ignition/immoblizer? I have the stock ignition tumbler and the immobilizer setup. I need some way to trigger the starter.
4. Vac line setup/connections. I am not hung up on making the DAB work and just want it to hold it at 20 psi or so. Can I just use a manual boost controller to work the WGA?
5. I was stupid and removed many wires out of the in-car portion of the harness. How many wires do you need to drive the OBD2 port so you can push new SKIM info to ECU?
6. Same reason as above, if I don't have gauge cluster plugged in will ECU be mad?

Post by **srt4eh** » Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:40 pm

Syked ECU tuning can turn off the emissions, turn off the downstream O2, and can program the skim for whatever code you need.

You can just run a stronger wastegate and run a manual boost controller no problem. The pcm will not be mad without a cluster.

islandapache · Post by **islandapache** » Fri Apr 03, 2015 11:49 pm

Looking real good man, keep up the good work

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Sat Apr 04, 2015 2:50 pm

The gauge cluster can be bypassed, but you need to figure out what wires need looped. A 2gn will not start without the cluster installed.

If you do not want the skim, SykedEcu can shut off the skim completly.

I would get an aftermarket wg and mbc to run the boost and set it where you want if you just want a single setting, but you need a 3bar map and tip and a rescale for those.

Downstream O2 and evap will throw codes, but doesnt really cause any issues. Again SykedEcu can shut those off.

I would reccomend getting a 3 bar map and tip with s2 or 750cc injectors and a rescale for them from SykedEcu with all unused components shut off that you dont want.

Post by **srt4eh** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 12:46 am

I've started a srt4 without a cluster before....

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:35 pm

Everyone ive ever known to try it, including kevin and myself, an unmodified 2gn from 00-05 srt or not needs the cluster to start with stock ecu and wiring

RicksNeon · Post by **RicksNeon** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:49 am

Is the cluster deal skim related?

redneckmoparman · Post by **redneckmoparman** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 3:34 pm

No idea but eddie above just unplugged the cluster and it still started..... dunno till you try i guess

Post by **joesf** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 12:44 pm

Maybe something with the bus system?

Post by **srt4eh** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:59 am

Indeed - I had an issue with the cluster not working correctly so I just straight up unplugged it and had no issues. Turned it off and started it back up with it unplugged a couple times. I can't imagine my wiring harness being any different than any other SRT or 2g harness

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Fri May 15, 2015 10:59 pm

Appreciate the insight. Hypothetically is there a wiring guru on the forum who would want me to fly them to Calgary for a few days of help to get this finished?

I have wired up almost everything, the lights work, fuel pump, water pump, starter engages, brake lights, turn signals, etc all work. I have been using my battery charger to test all of the circuits and all have worked first time!

Here is the list of what needs to happen before starting:
1. Figure out throttle cable (have a push pull that kinda works but needs improvement)
2. Bleed clutch line
3. Fill Oil/Coolant. (theoretically shouldn't leak?)
4. Reinstall PCM that is out getting reprogrammed (Syked)
5. Vacuum Lines
6. Hook up temp fuel cell (building final one after body is back on)
7. Last piece of boost piping into Throttle Body

esteinmaier · Post by **esteinmaier** » Sat May 16, 2015 7:43 am

I wish I had the time. I don't know if I'm a guru, but I know my way around it OK. Calgary sounds like a cool place.

Post by **Mitsuru** » Sat May 16, 2015 6:35 pm

Here is my suggestion for the throttle and peddle suggestion! Have a look at the VW air
cooled Beetles as they are rear engined and so will have some of the same problems

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Sun May 17, 2015 11:39 pm

Took a break from wiring and did some more body stuff. Finished welding the fenders, doors, added a few filler pieces as needed. The passenger side is almost done externally. Also started on mounting the windshield with some 1/4" plate brackets that will bolt through the windshield frame and into the main dash framework. I also was filling the extra drip rail around the perimeter of the windshield to make it look more smooth. I will probably use some carriage head bolts and acorn nuts on the back for the final bolts.

95-stock_dohc · Post by **95-stock_dohc** » Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:23 pm

So... much.... coolant.. lol. I've loved watching this thing progress.. great work.

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 5:24 am

I wish there was more progress but I have been busy moving into a new house. I am out on 4 acres now so I will be building a much more spacious work space here shortly.

Post by **doerun** » Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:18 am

kberjian wrote:I wish there was more progress

X2! This thing is awesome. I hope to see more updates soon

RD RT 98 · Post by **RD RT 98** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 7:48 am

Been following this one and looking forward to seeing more progress. Post up the new workspace project too

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Tue Nov 24, 2015 9:53 am

Was able to do some organizing in the new garage. It is 4' wider than the last one which makes a fair bit of difference. It will have to do until I can build a proper shop now I am out in the country.

Post by **doerun** » Tue Nov 24, 2015 10:43 am

Looks like a nice setup. Better than my 2 srt4 swaps in a driveway! I can't wait to see some updates

RD RT 98 · Post by **RD RT 98** » Tue Nov 24, 2015 10:52 am

MUCH nicer than my one car garage with my R/T. I can barely move around in my garage, have no access to the passenger side of the car at all because its hugging the wall

Post by **doerun** » Tue Nov 24, 2015 10:58 am

kberjian wrote:

If that is your son, I know what he is going to be begging to driving on dates lol. That's a lucky kid

kberjian · Post by **kberjian** » Tue Nov 24, 2015 12:26 pm

He has two older sisters that want a chance to drive first. The oldest is 5 and she has tried welding a few times now.

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