2.4 SWAP HOW TO... 56K YOU WISH...

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BlackRhino
Neon Mechanic
Posts: 357
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:03 pm
Location: Great falls, mt

2.4 SWAP HOW TO... 56K YOU WISH...

Post by BlackRhino » Sat Jun 07, 2008 1:47 am

ALWAYS READ THIS TOP POST FIRST


First off, I would like to get this out of the way…
This how-to is designed to help someone that has never done a motor swap, let alone ever taken a neon motor out of there car. It’s also designed to take someone from beginning to end, which I believe includes removal of the 2.0.

Secondly, this is the .org's how-to, I simply put everything together in one place. Without all of you this how-to would be impossible.

This how-to explains how to do a basic 2.4 swap. I will not be adding much about turbo 2.4 or any other major modifications. I intend to keep it as simple as possible. I have added information about how to use 2.0 cams including removal of the 2.4 cams and install of 2.0 or aftermarket cams, and information on how to remove the balance shafts.

I would also like to say that this is not the only way you can do the swap. I have added things like removing the motor and the transmission together so the person can better learn about their car and to make it easier on them for their first time doing something like this. So, with that said, if you have pulled motors before and believe you can do it easier, then great, do it your way.

If at anytime you are wondering why you are using one part over the other, check the bottom of the how-to in the information section. It also has prices of the SRT-4 parts you can use in your N/A 2.4.

This how-to will also be locked, by an admin to eliminate the amount of mis-information and BS that clogged up the last how-to.

IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION THAT THIS HOW-TO DOES NOT COVER,PLEASE POST IN THE ENGINE SWAP FORUM FOR THE ANSWER. PLEASE DO NOT FILL MY PM BOX WITH TONS OF QUESTIONS.


I also am not claiming to be a 2.4 swap god. I have done a 2.4 swap and I simply found it very discouraging having to dig through 1000 posts, having everyone’s opinion included, something’s being fuzzy due to questions by noobs, and people answering without knowing what they were talking about.
I learned by USING THE SEARCH FUNCTION!!! and filling PurpleNeon’s pm box on a daily basis. I felt it would be nice to have all the information in one spot and unable for people to pollute it. With that said…

IF YOU FEEL LIKE SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT OR IS MIS-INFORMATION IN ITSELF PLEASE PM ME AND I WILL RESEARCH IT AND CHANGE IF NECESSARY.

IF THERE IS ANYTHING THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO ADD, PLEASE PM ME. I WILL EVALUATE THE INFORMATION AND ADD IT IF IT IS NECESSARY TO THE HOW-TO.


Also, where ever possible, I have tried to describe things in my own words. There are a few copy and pastes in it, due to the fact I did not have a better way to say it. They are few and far between. I can’t even remember where they are. And if you see something you wrote, thank you for your quote.

At this point I need to know:
1. What else you would like to know about the 2.4 and the swap itself?

2. Does everything make sense? Do I have to re-word anything to make it better understandable?

3. Do I have to simplify anything like make more step by step???

4. Does the layout look good???
5. What else would you like to see included in this how-to???

Feel free to be honest with me, and I will do what I can to make this the best 2.4 swap how-to on the internet...

Thanks for you help...
Jeremy

I am also in need of some pictures of parts. If you have good, out of the car pictures of the following list, please pm them to me so I can better illustrate parts. I will change this list as I get what I need.
PT water inlet pipe (with O-Ring preferably)
2.0 DOHC coolant hard lines. (By themselves and installed on motor)
A good picture of a non-modular clutch mounted on the motor
A good picture of a modular clutch sitting in transmission and picture of the drive plate mounted to crank.
A good picture of a crowbar installed into the k-member, like you were going to pop the ball joints.
Last edited by BlackRhino on Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

User avatar
BlackRhino
Neon Mechanic
Posts: 357
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:03 pm
Location: Great falls, mt

Post by BlackRhino » Sat Jun 07, 2008 1:54 am

This is the most complete 2.4 swap how-to: online.

HOW TO: SWAP A 2.4 INTO YOUR NEON

Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for any and all injury, death, break down, problem, or any action that may have caused engine failure due to following these steps.

First off, I would like to say that this swap can be as easy or hard as you make it. Let’s get real, pulling a motor is not fun, I recruited a friend to stand around just so I could cuss at him. If you do not have the tools to do the job, don’t even think about it. There are a few tools that you will need that most people do not have. Also if you do not have a torque wrench, have no clue what a torque wrench is, or do not know how to use one. DO NOT DO THIS SWAP. Expect for this swap to take anywhere from 6 hours for the elite to 15+ hours for someone that has never done a swap before, however this is only if you have all your ducks in a row. Expect a week or more if you don't. The swap took Josh and I about 20 hours. Expect to run into some problems, remember this motor was never designed to go into a Neon. Also, expect to have some extra cash on hand if any problems do arise.

This is close to a step by step How to as I can make and is a work in progress. I have pulled information from personal experience and many other sources on the internet, including but not limited to, the org, 1gn.com and most of all Russ AKA PurpleNeon on the org. He is a wealth of info and knows more about the 2.4 swap then anyone I know. In all attempts, I have tried to use my own words when describing something I have researched. If, for any reason, a part is unclear, or does not make sense please PM me and I will try to explain it, and try to add it or word it in the how to.

With that said, this How To: directly explains how to swap a Chrysler 2.4 N/A motor into a 95-99 Dodge/Plymouth Neon. Also please use fsm, Chilton's, or other service manual for proper torqueing patterns and torque requirements.

I will include information and pricing sections at the bottom, further explaining things like using SRT-4 internals and turboing a 2.4. at a later date.

PARTS LIST
For further explanation of why you will be using these parts over others and information on each part please read Why do we use ____ Part??? in the Information section.

1. 2.4 liter DOHC from a 1995 – 2002 Chrysler made vehicle.
2. 2.0 Transmission from a Neon.
3. 2.0 DOHC intake manifold.
4. 2.0 DOHC Exhaust Manifold.
5. 2.0 DOHC Coolant hardlines.
6. 2.0 DOHC PCM
7. 2.0 DOHC wiring harness.
8. 2.0 Underdrive pulley.
9. PT Cruiser water pump inlet. And o-ring. PN#'s 4621491AB inlet, 6503180 O-ring
10. PT cruiser alternator brackets. PN#'s 4668446AA upper, 4668445AA lower
11. 2.4 Stratus motor mount.
12. 2.0 to 2.4 side motor mount adapter.
13. 24lbs injectors OR Second gen neon, 58psi fuel pressure regulator.
14. DOHC hood.
15. EGR block off kit.
16. 2.0 DOHC TPS and IAC solenoid.

OTHER THINGS YOU MAY WANT TO PICK UP.
New clutch
New thermostat
New timing belt
New timing belt tensioner and tensioner pulley
New oil pump. You can use the srt-4 pump witch flows more oil but you will also need the oil pan and oil pickup tube.
New water pump
Booger bushings
Motor mount inserts
Semi-solid – solid bobble strut
2001 - 2002 PT Cruiser Power Steering bracket.
2.0 DOHC cams.

2.0 REMOVAL

1. Remove Battery, and battery tray. This should always be done first. Set PDC up and out of the way.

2. Jack car up and place on jack stands, does not have to be too high, just high enough to get wheels off the ground. Remember to chuck rear wheels, and set e-brake.

3. Drain all fluids. IE… Oil, Coolant, and transmission oil. Remember to replace drain plugs and close drain cock on radiator. Please recycle used oil and fluids appropriately…

4. If your car is equipped with a bobble strut, unbolt it from the K-Frame while you’re still under the car.

5. While fluids are draining, remove front wheels.

6. Remove cotter pin, along with nut cover, spring washer. (DO NOT reuse cotter pin.)

7. Have a buddy get into car and hold brakes while you use a 32mm Axel nut socket to remove the axel nut… This will have to be done with air tools or a breaker bar…

8. Remove clevis bolt from knuckle. This is annoying because one side is 15mm and the other is 18mm. Check for wear, if it shows any wear get rid of it.

9. Unbolt end of Tie-Rod from steering knuckle.

10. Insert long pry rod into k-frame and push down on the lower control arm until ball joint pops out of the steering knuckle. This may take some bouncing on the pry bar, just be careful.

11. At this point you should be able to move the knuckle around until you can get the axle out of the steering knuckle. Have a friend hold the one end that just came out of the knuckle and do not allow axle end to hit anything or hang.

12. Slide under car and pop axle out of transmission, using a large flat blade screwdriver or other prying device. Do not allow this end to hang or knock into anything, or get contaminated with dirt or grease. I would suggest wrapping a t-shirt around the axel stubs. Set axles aside, as you will not need them for a while.

13. If you would like, you can now pop the ball joint back into the steering knuckle and loosely put the clevis bolt back in, and put tires back on vehicle. This comes in handy if you are using a chain lift, or will need to move car while the motor is out. Completely up to you. It will also allow you to drop the car back down and, if you are short like me will, be easier to reach things in the engine bay.

14. Remove hood. 4 bolts, 10mm. This is optional you can find other ways of keeping it out of the way; however I have seen some nasty pictures of what the hood latch does to people’s heads.

15. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses. If your car is equipped with an auto transmission, also disconnect the two coolant lines that lead to radiator.

16. Remove radiator fans.

17. Remove radiator. Set somewhere safe.

18. Disconnect wires from starter.

19. Remove PCM. Set somewhere safe and away from immediate work area.

20. Follow PCM harness, you will find two plugs, a white and black one. One will lead to the motor, the other to the front clip wiring harness. Disconnect both at this time.

21. Disconnect shifter cables from transmission. Use two flat blade screwdrivers to carefully pry upward, using equal amount of force on both sides. (DO NOT damage the bushings if you do not plan on replacing with either $140 dollar shifter cables or booger bushings)
Then remove the 2 clips that hold down the shifter cables to the shifter cable bracket. Remove the Vehicle speed sensor, located on the top back of the transmission near where the bobble bracket connects to the transmission.

22. Disconnect heater hoses. Some coolant will still remain.

23. Disconnect throttle body linkage. If you own an ATX then disconnect the auto-kick down cable at this time as well, along with the cruise control cable and servo.

24. Disconnect clutch cable if you own a manual transmission.

25. Disconnect vacuum hard-line from Throttle body that goes in between intake manifold and leads to evap purge solenoid. Remove evap purge solenoid as well at this time. It is mounted on the passenger side motor mount. No need to remove hard-line now if you plan on reusing it, it may snap.

26. Remove hose leading from thermostat housing to over flow bottle.

27. Properly bleed fuel system, by removing gas cap and using a nail or screwdriver to push in shroder valve on fuel rail. Caution, may squirt fuel; use towel or eye protection.

28. Remove fuel line from fuel rail and upper hard fuel line, located on the firewall. Push in on white parts of clips and slide off.

29. Disconnect power steering reservoir from back of head.

30. Disconnect power steering pump from front of motor. Both the pump and reservoir can now be moved to back corner of engine bay, hanging over passenger fender.

31. Disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust at the collector/doughnut. If you own an aftermarket header any longer then the pacesetter, you will want to remove it from the back of the head at this time.

32. Bolt chain to back of block.

33. Remove front motor mount and motor mount bracket from motor and radiator support for clearance.

34. If your car is equipped with A/C, unbolt it and use a metal hanger to hang it from the lower radiator support. DO NOT let A/C pump hang from hoses.

35. Loop other side of motor chain through middle two intake manifold runners and stick bolt through chain.

36. Connect hoist to engine chain and slightly tighten.

37. Unbolt passenger side and transmission motor mount bolts. The motor is now free, so be careful.

38. Carefully remove motor, you will need to lower motor to clear the transmission mount bracket. Removing the transmission mount bracket from transmission will further help getting the motor out. Twist and tilt motor so that the transmission is facing down a bit to get it completely out.

39. Lower motor to the ground, allowing it to stand on the oil pan.


PARTS NEEDED FROM 2.0

Now that we have the motor out and sitting on the ground, we need a few parts off of it.

If you just pulled a 2.0 DOHC you will need to remove the:
1. Intake manifold
2. Exhaust manifold
3. Starter
4. Coolant hard lines
5. Wiring harness
6. Alternator
7. Thermostat housing
8. Knock sensor
9. Throttle position sensor
10. IAC solenoid

If you just pulled a 2.0 SOHC you will need to remove the starter and alternator. (You can use the wiring harness, but you will have to do further wiring mods to make it work.) Even if you do not plan on using the SOHC wiring harness, I would suggest removing it, you may need the wiring plugs later in the swap.


REMOVAL OF TRANSMISSION FROM 2.0

Now that you have all the parts off the 2.0 that you will need, it’s time to crack the transmission. Below is a list of how to remove the 3 different types of transmissions and what you will need from each.


MODULAR CLUTCH
If you have a modular clutch, you will have to remove the inspection plate on the transmission to gain access to the 4 clutch to drive plate bolts (DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT LOSE THESE BOLTS) after removing all 4 remove all bolts holding the transmission to the motor and separate motor from transmission. You will further need the drive plate and drive plate bolts, and transmission shield, which is bolted to the block with one 10mm bolt.

NON-MODULAR CLUTCH
If you have the non-modular clutch, just remove all the bolts holding the transmission to the block, and separate. You then will have to remove the flexplate, clutch, then the flywheel to gain access to the transmission shield.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSON

If you own an automatic transmission you will have to, once again, remove the inspection plate from the bottom of the transmission and remove the 4 torque converter to drive plate bolts. (DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT LOSE THESE BOLTS) After that, remove the bolts that hold the transmission to the block and separate transmission from block. You will further need the drive plate and transmission shield.

Now would be the best time to get the 2.4 block on a motor stand.
Also it would be a good time to completely strip the 2.4 down to the bear block.

YOU MUST ALSO REMOVE THE 2.4 HARMONIC BALANCER USING THE CORRECT 3 JAW PULLER.


REMOVING THE 2.4 BALANCE SHAFTS

Image

let’s talk about the 2.4 balance shafts.

As with the Chrysler 2.0, the 2.4 is internally balanced, meaning there is no need for a harmonic balancer, or any other type of balancer. However, Chrysler being the innovators they are, decided to put what they called balance shafts in the 2.4. I’m telling you now, YOU DO NOT NEED THEM, and they’re robbing power from your new motor, due to parasitic loss. It’s your choice whether to remove them or not, however, most that are serious and want some decent power remove them.

So you ask how I remove the 2.4’s balance shafts.

1. If you have the motor on a motor stand, flip it around, oil pan up. If you do not have a motor stand, you can get creative with the engine hoist and do it from below.

2. Remove oil pan.

3. Remove oil pick up. DO NOT LOSE THE O-RING.

4. Start off buy cutting the chain, using what ever you have handy. I used a Dremal tool with a cut off wheel.

Now you have 2 options at this point. You can leave it how it is, and you will regain the power lost by the chain slowing the crank down, or if you’re serious about power you can do a few more steps and completely remove the balance shafts and lose some weight. YOU WILL HAVE TO SPEND 25 MORE CENTS AT ACE’S IF YOU DO DECIDE TO REMOVE THEM COMPLETELY. If you just want to regain the power and not remove them completely stop here.

5. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the balance shafts in place. They’re long, so just keep cranking they will come out. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THESE BOLTS, THEY ARE TOO LONG IF YOU TRY.

6. Go to the hardware store and get a 1/4-20 set screw I used a 3/8 inch length.

7. See picture: where the green arrow is use Allen wrench to slowly insert set screw.

NOTE: THIS HOLE IS NOT TAPPED, THE SET SCREW IS THE PERFECT SIZE TO TAP THIS HOLE. IT WILL TAKE SOME TIME AND A STEADY HAND. GO VERY SLOWLY AND IF IT SEEMS LIKE YOU CANT GET ANY FURTHER BACK OUT A HAIR AND TRY AGAIN, I HAD TO USE A LONG 6MM SOCKET TO HELP TURN THE ALLEN WRENCH TO KEEP IT GOING.

Image

8. After getting setscrew in place, remove, and use pipe cleaner to reach up and remove any metal filings that may have came off.

9. Use plenty of red loc-tight to ensure set screw stays in place.

10. Replace oil pick up tube (don’t forget that o-ring)

11. Install new oil pan gasket or reuse if it looks good.

12. Re-install oil pan using correct torqueing procedure.

13. Flip motor back around. Make sure you lock your stand in place if using a motor stand.

You have now removed the balance shafts; have a beer.

INSTALLING CAMS, WATER PUMP, OIL PUMP, TIMING BELT AND TENTIONERS

You should, at the very least, install a new water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner. Remember to properly torque all bolts to their proper tension.

1. Start off by removing the timing belt cover.

2. IMPORTANT: ROTATE MOTOR UNTILL MOTOR IS IN TIME, AND BOTH CRANK AND CAM TIMING MARKS LINE UP.

3. Take off timing belt by loosening tensioner wheel.

4. Remove idler pulley.

5. Remove cam pulleys.

6. Take back timing belt cover off.

7. Remove water pump and replace with new pump.

8. Remove timing belt tensioner and idler pulley and replace with new one. ***Please note that you have options here, please see bottom information section for details, your options are to use the stratus or SRT-4 tensioner and idler pulley.***

9. Remove oil pump and replace with new. When installing a new oil pump, make sure to pack inside of pump with Vasaline, this will help build oil pressure with your new motor.
***Please note that you have options here, please see bottom information section for details, your options are to use the stratus or SRT-4 oil pump.***

Ok, while the timing belt is off, you will now have to choose between 2.0 cams and the stock 2.4 cams.

2.4 cams are designed for low end torque, as are their intakes. The 2.0 cams edge out the 2.4 cams for power. If you have 2.0 cams, run them. They were only profiled like this to get the heavier mid-sized family cars like the stratus going. If you plan on swapping to 2.0 cams, or any after market cams, follow these instructions.

1. Take off valve cover. Go hose it off with degreaser if you like.

2. Use your service manual to properly remove cam caps.

REMOVING THEM IN ANY OTHER ORDER COULD WARP CAMS AND CAM JOURNALS. TAKE NOTE OF ARROWS ON CAM CAPS AND LAY THEM ON A TOWEL, IN ORDER, AND FACING SAME DIRECTION THAT YOU TOOK THEM OUT TO INDEX HOW THEY GO BACK IN THE HEAD.

3. CAREFULLY LIFT CAMS STRAIGHT UP AND OUT OF THE HEAD.

4. Clean and inspect 2.0 cams use brake clean, and lint free cloth.

5. Using plenty of cam lube or new motor oil to lube all cam journals and lobes.

6. Install new cam seals on to 2.0 cams.

7. Lower cams into place. BE VERY CAREFUL AND GENTLE. MAKE SURE TIMING HOLES FACE UP, THEY ARE ABOUT 6 INCHES AFTER THE CAM GEARS PAST THE FIRST SET OF LOBES.

8. Replace cam caps in proper direction and toruqe sequence as you removed them.

HOW TO PROPERLY ROTATE CAM MAGNET WHEN USING 2.0 CAMS.

9) Wipe off cam magnet and surrounding area with a rag. Using a sharpie make a line at TDC of the magnet going from the surrounding metal all the way on the magnet like seen below.
Image

10) Remove cam magnet from intake cam it should look like this.
Image

11) Using a Dremel with a cut off wheel and cut the 2 locating nipples off making sure that you have completely removed them and the spots are smooth.
Afterwords it should look like this.
Image

12) Take magnet and reinstall it 90 degrees in the clockwise direction. The line you made in step two should line up with the mating surface of the cam magnet surround and the head.
Using your finger to hold the magnet in place reinstall the cam magnet bolt, using a dab of blue loc-tight. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THIS BOLT. Remember you are connecting plastic to metal and the plastic will snap. Hand tighten and then give it a another 1/4 turn to snug it up. Correctly installed it should look like this.
Image


IF YOU DID NOT USE THE 2.0 DOHC CAMS RESUME INSTRUTIONS HERE…

17. Re-install back timing belt cover.
(If you are using the SRT-4 timing belt tensioner, you can cut your NA 2.4 inner timing belt cover or use the combination of covers listed below in the information section)
18. Re-install cam gears.

19. Re-install new timing belt idler pulley.

20. Re-install timing belt. Follow these instructions.


HOW TO TIME A 2.4

NOTE THAT THIS TIMING PROCEEDURE DIRECTLY EXPLAINS HOW TO TIME A SRT MACHANICAL TENTIONER. WHICH IS RECOMMENDED TO BE USED OVER THE HYDROLIC VERSION...

1. The crank pulley should already be at TDC from earlier.

2. The cam pulleys should be relatively close to in time from earlier, but may need some moving around if you installed the 2.0 cams.

3. Set the exhaust cam pulley 1/2 notch before (down) timing mark on intake cam timing mark.

4. Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner. You may need to rotate the tensioner by turning the tensioner pulley clockwise until it moves over.

5. Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align marks and take up slack in the belt.

6. Insert a long 1/4’’ drive extension end into the square opening, located in the middle of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate of tensioner pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE. The tensioner pulley will move against the belt and the tensioner setting notch will eventually start to move clockwise. Watching the movement of the setting notch, continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the 1/4’’ drive extension to prevent the top plate from moving, torque the tensioner lock bolt to 220 in.lbs. Setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after lock bolt is torque.

7. Rotate crankshaft CLOCKWISE 2 complete rotations to verify timing.

IF YOU GO PAST THE CRANK TIMING MARKS THE SECOND TIME AROUND, DO NOT ROTATE CRANK COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. GO AROUND 2 MORE TIMES AND GO SLOW WHEN APROCHING TDC.

DO NOT EVER, EVER, EVER ROTATE THE MOTOR COUNTERCLOCKWISE. IT WILL MAKE VERIFICATION OF TIMING IMPOSSIBLE.


8. Verify that the spring tang is within the little window. If so, then the timing belt install is complete. If not, you will have to repeat step 6-7 till correct.

9. Install outer timing belt cover.


YOU CAN ALSO "FINE TUNE" YOUR CAMS AS SEEN BELOW. THIS IS OPTIONAL.

1) Find 2, 1/4'' drive short extensions like shown below.
Image

2) Insert one of these extensions into the timing holes on each cam. Like so...
Image

3) Even with the timing marks close you will notice how off the timing marks can be...
Image

4) Using a good flat ruler or what ever you can find that is known to be flat, and place it on top of the extensions.

5) Very carefully tweek the cam sprockets till the flat ruler lays flat on both extensions. Like below.
Image

This is not as accurate as using a dial however it is better then eye balling it.




Time to take the motor off the motor stand. You are now going to have to work on the motor while it is being supported by the motor hoist, so be careful.


TIME TO INSTALL THE TRANSMISSION


I will break this down into how to install each transmission.
It is also highly recommended to use a new clutch if possible.

NON-MODULAR CLUTCH
1. Install transmission plate.

2. Install flywheel to crank, use new bolts.

3. Using alignment tool, align new clutch plate and flex plate, and install bolts.

4. On the transmission side, make sure you have cleaned the inside of the bell housing the best you can. Make sure to wipe off transfer shaft, fork, fork pivot point, and pivot point on fork.

5. With a clean hand, wipe a very minute amount of white lithium grease on transfer shaft of transmission, and pivot point.

6. Install new throw out bearing.

7. Position block low to ground and lift transmission into place. Replace top transmission bolts along with back bolts. The lower ones and front ones will come later.

MODULAR CLUTCH
1. Install transmission plate.

2. Install drive plate using plenty of blue loc-tight.

3. On the transmission side, make sure you have cleaned the inside of the bell housing the best you can. Make sure to wipe off transfer shaft, fork, fork pivot point, and pivot point on fork.

4. With a clean hand, wipe a very minute amount of white lithium grease on transfer shaft of transmission, and pivot point.

5. Install new throw out bearing.

6. The drive plate will only line up one way. Find out what way it lines up, and mark back of modular clutch and back of drive plate at one of the holes that line up.

7. Install new modular clutch into transmission, onto the transfer shaft.

8. Position block low to ground and lift transmission into place. Replace top transmission bolts along with back bolts. The lower ones and front ones will come later.

9. Having a friend turn motor over using crank. Line up the holes, using the marks you made in step 6. Insert and hand tighten all four clutch to drive plate blots using plenty of blue loc-tight.

10. Tighten the absolute hell out of these four bolts using a criss-cross pattern.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
1. Install transmission plate.

2. Install drive plate, using plenty of blue loc-tight.

3. Install torque converter to drive plate. Tighten the absolute hell out of the four bolts using plenty of blue loc-tight.

4. Position block low to ground and lift transmission into place. Replace top transmission bolts along with back bolts. The lower ones and front ones will come later.


FRONT MOTOR MOUNT INSTALLATION AND MODIFICATION

Ok, the transmission is on, now we have to take care of the front motor mount.

You will be using the 2.0 front motor mount bracket, however it will not work without some modification due to it hitting the 2.4’s oil pan. You will have to cut the front motor mount bracket, as seen below, for it to fit.

Image

Ok, now that the front motor mount is taken care of, you can install it,along with the clutch inspection plate. Start all 4 bolts for the front motor mount, two in the block and two in the transmission. Tighten all 4 bolts down using blue loc-tight.

Ok, now install the starter,and that will be the last of the transmission bolts as well.

INSTALLING ACCESSORIES

Now that all that fun is done, lets move on to getting the rest of the block ready.

1. Install PT alternator lower and upper alternator brackets. Install alternator just like the 2.0 mounts.

Image

2. Install PT water pump inlet tube, using proper O-Ring.

3. Install 2.0 knock sensor. There are two ways to do this. You can remove the 2.4 knock sensor and use that hole for the 2.0 knock sensor. This, however, will require you to cut the 2.0 intake manifold middle support bars too. You can also remove the 2.4 knock sensor and install the 2.0 DOHC knock sensor right about where the 2.0 goes. You will have to lengthen the knock sensor wires on the harness, but that’s easier then cutting those support braces.

4. Install cam position sensor plug facing down.

5. Install 2.0 DOHC coolant hard lines.

6. Install 2.0 DOHC intake manifold. Don’t forget to bolt the hard lines to the intake manifold and to install your EGR block off plates.

7. Install 2.0 DOHC thermostat housing; make sure to use a new thermostat.

8. Install 2.4 side motor mount bracket.

9. Install 2.4 side motor mount adapter to 2.4 side motor mount bracket.

NOTE: That I have not installed the fuel rail and injectors yet, to prevent damage to fuel rail from chains while lifting the motor.

WIRING HARNESS Thanks iblue.

You can do the wiring harness many ways. Do the obvious ones first if you not familiar with how the wiring harness connects. If you run into problems with plugs not fitting, you will have to go back to your old 2.0 motor and get the plugs that fit, make sure to clip them about 6 inches back on the 2.0, then cut the plug on the 2.4 wiring harness and SOLDER new plug into place, making sure to match wires up using the same color wires. Either shrink wrap or electrical tape all soldered connections. IF YOU ARE NOT GOOD AT SOLDERING, FIND SOMEONE THAT IS.

Below are instructions on how to do all wiring modifications for the 2.4 swap at the PCM plug. This only includes how to swap the coil pack wires and injector wires.

1. Locate big black clip that plugs into PCM it will look something like this.

Image

2. Take small flat blade screwdriver and pry bottom pin protector plate out and then up. Be careful not to snap this, just be gentle. The other side has the same clip and is not accessible; I had to play with it for bit to get the other side to come loose.

This is where you pry.

Image

After you get the bottom plate off, this is what it should look like.

Image

3. Ok, now look at the picture below.
There are small silver tabs that hold each pin in place. I have a green line pointing to some of these tabs each hole whether it has a pin or not.
By taking a small screwdriver in one hand and gently pulling back, you will be able to use another small screwdriver to push that pin down and out of the connector, allowing it to be pushed back into the connector in a different location.

Image

This picture shows you where each pins number is.

Image

4. Now that you know how to remove the pins and where each pin is, you are going to have to move some wires around.

Find pin 2 and 3
Pin 2 should be Black and Grey
Pin 3 should be Dark Blue and Tan
Remove both wires and switch them. Put pin 2 in pin 3's spot and pin 3 in pin 2's spot.
You just swapped the outer 2 coil pack wires. See it’s easy.

Now let’s take care of the fuel injector plugs.
There has been a recent discovery that the commonly exepted way of swapping the injector plugs is not the correct way. This is the new way and the way it should be done. Here is the link that shows why. viewtopic.php?t=318427

It's going to get a little more confusing but just don’t read ahead, and go slow. Do exactly as I say.

1. Move pin 7 to 16
2. Then take 16's original wire and move it to 17
3. Then take 17's original wire and move it to 13
4. Then take 13's original wire and move it to 7

So after your done.
Pin 7 should be White/Dark Blue
Pin 13 should be Tan
Pin 16 should be Yellow/White
Pin 17 should be Light Blue/Brown

You just moved all the injector plugs down one. It will now appear stock up front. You now will NOT have to extend the injector plugs or move them down one. Just install the injector plugs where they normally go.


INSTALLING 2.4 INTO CAR

1. First we are going to have to do some things up in the engine bay. Start off by CLEANING YOUR DAMN ENGINE BAY! Make sure all lines, like transmission shifter cables, throttle body linkage, power steering assembly and wiring, are all out of the way.

2. Bolt chain to block low on the back of the block and through the intake manifold like before. This will allow you to tilt the block at the right angle to install motor, if you do not have a tilt box for your engine hoist.

3. Lift 2.4 in the air, high enough to clear the radiator support.

4. Tilt motor transmission side down.

5. Lower motor into engine bay

BE CAREFUL OF HEATER LINES!!!

6. Set motor all the way down on the ground.

7. For ease of install, install transmission mount that you took off transmission while taking 2.0 out into its place running bolt through and getting it close to all the way through. However, do not tighten it all the way.

8. Lift motor off ground, lining up transmission to the transmission motor mount you just installed. Start the bolts that hold it in place, after getting all the bolts in, tighten them all down. Now tighten transmission motor mount threw bolt.

9. Lift motor more until the new 2.0 to 2.4 side motor mount adapter is lined up with the passenger side motor mount. Slide new bolt that came with adapter, and fully tighten nut on back of new threw bolt.

10. Get front motor mount bolts started into the radiator support. Get the front motor mount through bolt started and tightened down most the way. Tighten front motor mount bolts down now and then tighten the through bolt.

11. Re-install bobble strut. If you had an automatic transmission, you are doing a MTX swap also. You will have to get a lower bobble bracket from a guy that makes one that bolts around the K-member. Here is his dealer post viewtopic.php?t=313836 he makes lots of things that may make your swap easyier.

12. Install exhaust manifold and reconnect exhaust. If using a different manifold, modifications may have to be made to downpipe for it to work.

DO NOT RUN CAR LONGER THEN 30 SECONDS WITHOUT EXHAUST HOOKED UP TO MANIFOLD. YOU MAY BURN THE EXHUAST VALVES.


13. Install 24lb. injectors using small amount of Vaseline on injector o-rings OR 2 nd gen 58 psi fuel pressure regulator.

ONE OR THE OTHER, NOT BOTH.

14. Install fuel rail. And fuel line.

15. Install injector wiring harness.

16. Install coil pack. And connect wiring harness.

17. Install new spark plugs gapped to .035’’.

18. Install spark plug wires. Make sure to use DOHC spark plug wires as the SOHC plugs are different.

19. Install throttle body, and connect wiring harness.

20. Install clutch cable. Don’t forget the dust cover.

21. Install transmission shifter cables, or kickdown cable. Good time for some new booger bushings. Don't forget to reconnect the Vehicle speed senso, located at the back of the top of the transmission near where the bobble strut connects to the transmission.

22. Install throttle body linkage.

23. Install heater hoses. Also reconnect brake booster vac line and evap vac line.

24. Install PCM.

25. Reconnect motor wiring harness to PCM. Don’t forget those two clips that go from the PCM wiring harness to the cabin wiring harness and motor wiring harness.

26. Install thermostat housing hose from thermostat housing to coolant overflow tank.

27. Install radiator.

28. Install lower and upper radiator hoses. You may need to cut about a half an inch off one of the hoses, we did not have to. If you have a half radiator the hoses work fine. If you have Automatic transmission, do not forget to hook up the other two coolant lines.

29. Install A/C and all A/C lines.

30. Install under drive pulley.


POWER STEERING

Ok, now on to installing the power steering stuff. This is the most debated part of the swap, and can be the hardest as well.
You can:

1. Use the PT power steering bracket, which will bolt to the 2.4 just fine, however the power steering pump will sit 1/2 inch in. You will have to make a spacer that will move the pump 1/2 inch, some people use washers,some get spacers machined. Now the PT bracket will not allow for adjustment so you will have to slot the two mounting holes so you will have adjustment.

2001-2002 PT Cruiser power steering bracket 4668468AA $7.09

Here’s what it looks like after it has been slotted and then pump installed to bracket.
Note that the bottom pic is of a slotted srt-4 bracket with a power steering pump attached. The above pic is of a 01-02 PT bracket which allows more room for adjustment. You get the idea.

Image
Image

2. Modern Performance offers a powdercoated 1/4 thick steel super strong 2.4 swap bracket with pivot bolt and slots.
All new bolts, hardware is included, this is a great piece that requires no modifications.
Image
http://www.modernperformance.com/motor- ... -1984.html

3. Some people make custom brackets like seen below.
Image

After figuring out how you’re going to mount the pump, re-install the reservoir to the back of the head.

31. Install accessory belts.

32. Install battery tray. And snap PDC back onto the battery tray.

If you plan on removing your power steering, you can do a few things. Some people simply cut the lines where they come out of the rack and pinion. Some drain the rack and plug the holes. Some install a manual steering rack. There are also some custom setups as well.


FINISHING UP

Ok, now that the motor is all wired and complete, its time to re-install the axles. Depending on whether or not you decided to put the car back down on its wheels, installing the axles will be a bit different. However, I will assume if you were able to get the car back together, and sat it on its wheels, you will be able to get it back. Don’t forget to swap out the axle seals while you are at it. Also, do not forget to use a new cotter pin. Once the axles are in and you have the wheels back on the car, you will need to refill the transmission. If you own a manual transmission you have a few options on what to fill the transmission with, since they do not make the original MTX fluid any more, and if you can find it, its 16 bucks a qt. I use ATF+4 in my manual transmission, and it works fine. It allows you to drain it and see any impurities in it if you ever come down with problems. You can also use some different weight oils.

Now it’s time to fill the motor with oil. You will have to fill the motor will 5qt’s of oil. Also, you will need to fill the radiator until full; it will require different amounts of coolant depending on if you have an automatic transmission or an aftermarket radiator. You may also have to burp the system by taking the cap off, after you have ran the motor and let it cool, and squeezing the coolant hoses.

At this point, you should be ready to start the car. However, first you should go back over all the plugs on the wiring harness and make sure all vacuum lines are hooked back up. Also, do not forget about your grounding straps. If you would like, this is a good time to upgrade them to a better system. Personally, I used 8gauge wire to ground my block in different areas. I have read too many posts of people’s grounding straps have fallen off or rusted through, and it causing problems after 10 plus years.


STARING CAR AND PROBLEM SHOOTING


Ok, go ahead and put the battery back in and connect it. Get in the car and turn the key to the ON position to prime the fuel rail. You will hear the fuel pump kick on. Once the pump quiets down, go ahead and try to start it. Just crank it in no more then 10 second intervals. Wait 30 seconds in between attempts to allow the starter to cool.

IF YOUR CAR STARTED

And is running well, CONGRAGULATIONS!!!
Go around engine bay and look for any leaks from water outlet, heater lines, radiator, radiator hoses, fuel lines, power steering lines. If the motor sounds like it’s running well, let it idle until the motor warms up. Check for any codes. If any, try to take care of them at this time. Go ahead and shut car down and try to restart. If it starts back up, awesome. Try to put it in gear and see if it will move. If so, awesome, you are done, drink a beer.

IF YOU’RE CAR STARTS BUT DOES NOT RUN WELL.

If it just sounds like the idle is choppy then shut off and check your cam magnet. Did you rotate it clockwise and as close to 90 degrees as you could? How about timing? Are you sure that you timed it correctly? It also may be a clogged injector, or you did not have a good soldering connection. Did you rewrap your wiring harness after soldering or did you just let the wires go all over the place? Let it run if it doesn’t sound too bad, and see if you can get a code to throw.

IF YOU’RE CAR DOES NOT START.

Do you have fuel and spark?
Did you remember all the grounds?
Did you switch the to outer coil pack wires?
Did you move the injector plugs down 1?
Did you time the motor correctly? If you have doubts you probably need to take a second look.
If your using 2.0 cams did you rotate the cam magnet?
Is your crank sensor good?
Try turning the cam sensor around.

If it still won’t start hit the boards.


INFORMATION SECTION

***PLEASE NOTE, ALL PART NUMBERS CONTAINED IN THIS SECTION MAY HAVE BEEN SUPERCEDED AND HAVE DIFFERENT LETTERS AT THE END... THE DEALER COMPUTER OR WEBSITE SHOULD KNOW THIS AND GET YOU THE RIGHT PART***

WHY DO WE USE ______ PART????
This section is design to un-clutter the how to, and further explains why you will use certain parts and not others.
1. 2.4 liter DOHC from a 1995 – 2002 Chrysler made vehicle.
The list of vehicles that this motor is found in is:
1995 – 2000 Stratus, Breeze or cirrus
1996 – 2000 Voyager and Caravan
2001 + PT Cruiser, Stratus and Sebring.

Please note: All 2.4 motors that were made 2001+ have a different manifold mounting set up, port design on the head, different oiling system and different oil filter locations. This how to embraces 1995-2000 2.4 motors. If you choose to use a 2001+ motor, you will be on your own.

You can find 2.4 motors in various places for various prices. Some have claimed to be able to get a 2.4 for 50 bucks from certain junkyards that do specials on the weekends if you can carry it over 10 feet. You can find them in most junkyards for 300 to 1000 bucks. You can also find them on e-bay from various vendors, some will even come with warranties.

2. 2.0 Transmission from a Neon.
We use the Neon transmission because they work just fine and the computers are happy with them.
You can use any of the three common Neon transmissions.
The 3.55 will give you better gas mileage, and will help you off the line a bit better.
The 3.94 will allow you to stay in gear a bit longer and make better use of the increase in tq.
The 3 speed automatic found in Neon’s will work just fine, it seems to crave the extra tq.

3. 2.0 DOHC intake manifold.
You will need to use the 2.0 intake manifold, due to clearance issues with the 2.4 intake manifold. The 2.0 intake manifold will also give you a bit more of high end, due to the 2.4 intake manifold being made for low end torque to get the mid-sized cars, like the Stratus, up and going.

4. 2.0 DOHC Coolant hard lines
You will need to use these, due to the fact that 2.4 and SOHC will rub on the bottom of the intake manifold and cause a leak eventually.

5. 2.0 DOHC Exhaust Manifold.
It works, what can I say? You can use the stock 2.0 DOHC exhaust manifold or aftermarket, your choice. Longer is better for N/A setups.

6. 2.0 DOHC PCM
You must use a PCM from a Neon!!! You must use the correct PCM for your transmission. You may also use any of the aftermarket PCM’s, like the Mopar Performance or AFX.

7. 2.0 DOHC wiring harness.
You should use a wiring harness from the same year as your car.
If you own a 95 you must use a 95
If you own a 96 you must use a 96
If you own a 97-99 you must use a 97-99
If you own an automatic transmission, you must use a wiring harness from your year and transmission type.

You can use a SOHC wiring harness,however, you will have to change the cam positioning sensor plug and extend the coolant temp sensor plug, as it needs to be long enough to reach passenger front side of the head.

8. 2.0 Underdrive pulley.
Some 2.4’s are able to use the stock 2.0 crankshaft pulleys, however, most will hit the passenger side frame rail. So just get an underdrive pulley and reap the extra benefits.

9. PT Cruiser water pump inlet neck. And o-ring.
The PT water neck will better position the lower radiator hose so it does not pinch the hose. It also better positions the coolant hardlines.

Part numbers for these are:
PT Cruiser water pump inlet neck 4621491AB
PT cruiser water outlet neck O-Ring 6503180
Image
10. PT cruiser alternator brackets.
These will allow you to mount your 2.0 alternator to the 2.4 block. You must use the 2.0 alternator.
Part numbers 4668445AA, 4891533-AA

11. 2.4 Stratus motor mount.
We simply use this mount because the 2.0 will not work and the solutions for the 2.4 bracket were figured out first.
Image

12. 2.0 to 2.4 side motor mount adapter.
Once again we use this part for the mere fact that it’s what works with the swap. They can be ordered from a few different places includeing modernperformance.com , TOOMANYNEONS, Lorenzo.

Image

13. 24lbs injectors OR Second gen neon, 58psi fuel pressure regulator.
You will have to use one or the other, not both. It is easier to use 24lb injectors and more advisable.
You can use Accell 24lb injectors from modernperformance.com or you can also use 05+ ford mustang GT injectors witch will run you about 40 bucks.
Ok the N/A 2.4 motor also has 19lb injectors stock just like the 2.0, however the 2.4 PCM sends a fatter wider pulse to the injectors causing them to inject more fuel then the 2.0 PCM does. And since we use the 2.0 DOHC PCM, we need more fuel. 24lb injectors provide the extra fuel that the 2.4 needs.

14. DOHC hood.
If you are swapping from a SOHC to a 2.4, your hood will not fit. You must use a stock DOHC hood or DOHC stock style made of fiberglass or carbon fiber. You can also use a CNNP Racing Cowl Hood. You may also have to cut the bracing out of the bottom of the DOHC hood for clearance in certain installs.

15. EGR block off kit.
The 2.4 EGR system will work with some modification, however, it will just be easier to get an EGR block off kit. You will have a cleaner engine that way. You may throw a CEL light by doing this. Neongoodies.com sells an EGR block off kit that comes with a resister that will prevent the CEL light from coming on. Lorenzo also sells the resisters.

16. 2.0 DOHC TPS and IAC solenoid.
Although the DOHC and SOHC TPS and IAC solenoid read the same info and send the same signal back to the PCM, they are not physically alike and were made to clear their respective intake manifolds. You can use the SOHC TPS and IAC solenoid but it is a very tight tight squeeze. Trust me.

17. 2.0 DOHC cams.
The 2.4 cams along with the intake manifold were designed for low end torque to get the mid-sized cars up and going easier. 2.0 cams will edge out 2.4 cams for power. However if you plan on turboing your 2.4 leave the 2.4 cams. If you do plan on replacing the cams, don’t forget the cam bearings.


SRT-4 PARTS AND YOUR N/A 2.4. HOW TO BUILD IT CHEAP
There are many srt-4 parts that will fit and work on the N/A version of the 2.4. However, using one part may require you to use other parts alongside it to make it work. I will explain as we go.

You do not have to use all these parts together, as in you can use the timing components but not the oiling system. It’s up to you.

You can buy these parts used if you like,I just included the new prices.

ALL PRICES WERE PULLED FROM http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ ON 4/25/08

TIMING COMPONENTS
You can use the SRT-4 timing belt by itself, and not use the other timing components.
You can use the SRT-4 timing belt tensioner, however, you will have to use the SRT-4 timing belt idler pulley as well. This set up works better then the NA version of the timing components and can handle much more hp. You can also upgrade the bolt for the idler pulley to a 10mm bolt for more strength. If you swap over to this version of the timing components, you will no longer be able to use the timing belt cover that came with your motor. You will have to use this combination of covers, SRT inner, outer lower Stratus cover, and
outer upper Stratus cover.

Timing Belt 4621844 $71.42
Timing Belt tensioner 4781570AB $74.28
Idler Pulley 4781569AB $37.74
SRT inner timing belt cover 4781593AA $47.26
Stratus outer lower timing belt cover 4663459 $8.79
Stratus outer upper timing belt cover 5093132AA $11.10
Inner cover to block screws 6502926 $0.36 not sure how many.
Self tapping timing cover screws 6101952 $0.81 not sure how many.

OILING SYSTEM
This is one of those things that if you use one, you use them all.
You can use the SRT-4 oil pump which flows 3cc more oil and is better for turbo applications, however you will also have to use the oil pick up tube, oil pan and oil pan gasket along side it. The oil pan gasket also has a crank scrapper built in.

Oil Pump 4884390AB $78.33
Oil Pump Pickup/Screen 4792304AC $28.35
Oil Pan 4884385AE $94.77
Oil Pan Gasket 4777994AA $27.54
Oil Filter Connector 4777998AA $9.88
Oil Filter Connector Gasket 4884000AA $5.63
Oil Filter Connector Screw 6102041AA $0.28
Lower Gasket Set 5093452AA $29.24

SRT-4 INTERNALS
Please note switching to SRT internals will lower compression to 8.1 to 1 and is only ideal for turbo applications.
Stock srt-4 pistons fit in any year N/A 2.4. HOWEVER, YOUR BLOCK MUST HAVE A GOOD STOCK BORE. Make sure you have a machine shop check clearances and hone block.
The cool thing about this is that its dirt cheap, compared to other aftermarket forged pistons and rods.

The rods and pistons come in a set and will handle right around 500hp.
Please realize that these are low compression pistons and they will yield a lower compression ratio of 8.1 to 1.
They will install just fine to your stock N/A crank as long as the crank is within stock tolerance.
You are not able to use the srt-4 crank, it has a different trigger wheel.
The following list is everything that you will need to build a bullet proof 2.4 block capable of handling up to 500hp.

Rod and piston assembled with pin 4884247AD (you need 4) 78.33 each 313.32 total
Rings 5093441AA 27.82 total Set is for all four pistons.
Main bearings 5012582AA 7.98 Total
Rod Bearings 5093448AB (you need 4) 6.08 each 24.32 total
TOTAL COST OF REBUILD 373.44 THAT’S RIGHT YOU CAN HAVE A BUILT BLOCK THAT WILL HANDLE 500HP FOR LESS THEN 400 BUCKS.

OTHER SRT-4 PARTS THAT WILL FIT THE N/A 2.4

You can use a SRT-4 valve cover with minimal mods. There is one hole that will not line up with the 1995-1999 head. It will have to be plugged so dirt does not get in the head. $40.46

The SRT-4 headgasket will fit any 2.4 blocks that are 2002 up. There was an oil port change that year. $11.22

And the SRT-4 Turbo-fold will fit the N/A 2.4 just like the 2.0

Rev 1.1
Last edited by BlackRhino on Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:23 pm, edited 11 times in total.
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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BlackRhino
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Location: Great falls, mt

Post by BlackRhino » Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:25 am

And there you go guys...

This will be stickied... I have already spoken with Case about it...

I will leave this post open for post for a period of one week or until Case gets back from Neon 2008...

Please leave comments, corrections and anything else here for now. We can get it ironed out within a week and then all posts below the how-to will be deleted and the How-to will be locked.

Please do not leave questions about the swap itself. That is what the board is for.

All I want to know now is...

1. What else you would like to know about the 2.4 and the swap itself?

2. Does everything make sense? Do I have to re-word anything to make it better understandable?

3. Do I have to simplify anything like make more step by step???

4. Does the layout look good???

5. What else would you like to see included in this how-to???

6. What do you think...

IF YOU FIND ANYTHING WRONG OR MIS-INFORMATION POST UP AND LET ME KNOW SO WE CAN GET THE MOST ACCURATE INFORMATION IN IT. I AM NOT A 2.4 SWAP GOD, SO IF I MESSED UP SOMEWHERE LET ME KNOW. AFTER ITS LOCKED IT WILL BE DIFFICULT FOR ME TO EDIT...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

ShaZam508
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Post by ShaZam508 » Sat Jun 07, 2008 2:37 pm

You got my vote for one of the sickest posts ever.
Big Turbo SRT swapped NYG.

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DOHCRT
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Post by DOHCRT » Sat Jun 07, 2008 4:19 pm

The pic of the front motor mount bracket looks familiar... :lol:

Good write-up.

I8yourVtec
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Location: Chester, Va

Post by I8yourVtec » Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:41 am

Found this in a google search. Awsome right up. I have it saved.
2005-Flame red srt-4--Stage 2 w/ toys...many other mods
1995 Plymouth nyg acr coupe-- 1 of 63. For Sale- PM for details

WTB:RT or ACR transmission. Va,Nc or Md areas prefered.

97redneon
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Posts: 61
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Location: niagarafalls

Post by 97redneon » Sun Jun 08, 2008 5:42 pm

ALL I CAN SAY IS........THANKS

I have been saving and saving, to get the 3k it would cost to get the Modern Peformance Top end and bottom end.

Still dont have cams, UDP, and PT valve train stuff, but based on that, i can afford to get the stuff now.

THANKS FOR HELPING US "semi-clueless folks out.
saved me from asking a lot more questions.
new engine in da works- 2.4swap, 10.5:1 pistons, eagle rods, kirk longtube, crane valve springs, 2.4 valve train, MPX underdrive, Lorenzo Overdrive, ported and polished head, - crane 18 and boomba 2.4 gears. Hope it will be a daily driver or at least a weekend rice hunter.

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dawm
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Post by dawm » Sun Jun 08, 2008 8:01 pm

what about priming the oil system, i didnt see that step in there anywhere.
2018 Jeep Compass Trailhawk, 02 Subaru Impreza Wagon
Gone but not forgotten:
97 Expresso Coupe, 02 R/T, 95 SC, 98 Sport, 98 R/T Turbo, 03 SXT, 98 R/T, 04 Base2SRT, 96 Coupe, 99 R/T
http://www.detroitneonowners.org / http://www.dawm.co

I8yourVtec
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Post by I8yourVtec » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:29 am

more pics would have been nice for some people. But besides that, AWSOME!
2005-Flame red srt-4--Stage 2 w/ toys...many other mods
1995 Plymouth nyg acr coupe-- 1 of 63. For Sale- PM for details

WTB:RT or ACR transmission. Va,Nc or Md areas prefered.

DistilledWater
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Post by DistilledWater » Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:26 am

Oh my God, this is the best 2.4 swap how-to. Sticky this and don't erase it ever. I'm glad I visited this section. forget my 2.0 motor project. 2.4 in the works now.

jakkal
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Post by jakkal » Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:30 am

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anything about changing the firing order or the injector sequence until the trouble shooting section.

Great How-to, I'm anxious to stuff a 2.4 into my car. Thanks for the effort of putting this together!

fattirebicycles
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Post by fattirebicycles » Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:15 am

Thanks for the gratuitous plug! :up:
402-276-3806. 13 neons at the house currently. At least 30 others since 2008.

jakkal
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Post by jakkal » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:49 pm

I skimmed through, must have skipped over the wire fixing. I did notice that at the beginning it says 95-02 engines are OK and later it says 95-01 are the ones to use. Are there some 02s with the older style head and some with the new?

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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:52 pm

First off guys thanks for being supportive and not ripping on me for the little mistakes... Thanks for bringing this to my attention...
dawm wrote:what about priming the oil system, i didn't see that step in there anywhere.
Yeah I do need to get that in there... It's my understanding, correct me if I'm wrong you just pack the oil pump with Vaseline right???

I8yourVtec More pics are in the works... I have a list up top on the first post of what I need for now... Tell me what pics you guys want and I can work on getting them...

fattirebicycles not a problem...

john doe I have a 95 engine harness out in the garage I can work on getting that done... may be a few days...

jakkal Thanks for pointing that out I will fix it... Lots of this was written at like 3am...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

I8yourVtec
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Posts: 2430
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 2:16 am
Location: Chester, Va

Post by I8yourVtec » Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:55 pm

im in the middle of a 2.4 swap. I took pics of basically every little thing ive done.

If i decided to go into photobucket and dig some out, more than welcome
2005-Flame red srt-4--Stage 2 w/ toys...many other mods
1995 Plymouth nyg acr coupe-- 1 of 63. For Sale- PM for details

WTB:RT or ACR transmission. Va,Nc or Md areas prefered.

User avatar
BlackRhino
Neon Mechanic
Posts: 357
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:03 pm
Location: Great falls, mt

Post by BlackRhino » Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:11 pm

I8yourVtec yeah that would be great... do you have a link to your gallary and I can just re-host them to make sure they stay up... would that be ok???
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

I8yourVtec
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Posts: 2430
Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 2:16 am
Location: Chester, Va

Post by I8yourVtec » Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:15 pm

uh..theres like 35 pgs
2005-Flame red srt-4--Stage 2 w/ toys...many other mods
1995 Plymouth nyg acr coupe-- 1 of 63. For Sale- PM for details

WTB:RT or ACR transmission. Va,Nc or Md areas prefered.

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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:44 pm

Thats fine... I can rumage...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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boost junkie
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Post by boost junkie » Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:34 am

[rant]
Why does every post have something to do with 56k? Nobody uses 56k anymore and if they did they must surely know that their connection is slow as hell.
[/rant]

Nice writeup. If this is stickied perhaps some other posts can be unstickied or archived. This forum has way too many stickies!

john doe
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Post by john doe » Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:48 pm

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318427 Thread on why the pins are the swapped the way they are.
Last edited by john doe on Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
95 SOHC ATX Sport Coupe: 3.55 MTX swap, 2.4DOHC swap, SuperD brackets, twiztidklown1 filled mounts, Vitor bobble, Booger Bushings, Depo Projectors, Prothane bushings, KYB GR2's, AMM 90-less lower, Mopar ECU, Hedman header, AFX UDP, Crane springs/retainers, SS valves.

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LilRed
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Post by LilRed » Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:28 pm

This is an excellent write up, i think it solved every question of mine before i annoyed everyone in this section for answers lol. will print this out when i start my swap next week, thanks!

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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:52 pm

LilRed wrote:This is an excellent write up, i think it solved every question of mine before i annoyed everyone in this section for answers lol. will print this out when i start my swap next week, thanks!
This is exactly why I wrote this how-to... perfect example...

as far as the firing order deal goes I'm going to wait to see what some of the guys who are the swap gods to chime in about it and see what really what...

I may try to get just the steps on a post so if someone does want to print it out It wont take up 34 pages...

I'll see If I can get something like Case has for the downloadable key dance codes so you guys can just click on the printable version and you can have it on your computer and it will be printer friendly...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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Post by PurpleNeon » Wed Jun 11, 2008 3:58 am

FWIW, I could never figure out why the injector bump went 1-2 2-3 3-4 & 4-1 either. I tried every way of looking at it that I could, and it didn't make any sense. I just figured somebody knew more than I. BUT, I will say, it would be really difficult to defend, considering it DOES NOT keep the 1/4 and 2/3 pairs paired the same, so either it wasn't timed right stock (highly doubtful), or it is not timed right now.

That said, I'd like to hear of any real benefits of either way... but it will be something I will probably change, and play with on my 2.4 at some point when I have nothing better to do.
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Greenman
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Post by Greenman » Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:47 pm

Dear god PLEASE sticky this thing and archive it and make 5 hard copies. I have it saved in PDF form and the 2.0 removal section saved my butt when I pulled mine. Just printed the 2.0 section and taped it to the hood.
99 Neon Coupe SOHC (sold) - 98 Neon R/T (2.4 Swap)
Feedback Thread ---> viewtopic.php?f=36&t=410067

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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:09 pm

It will be stickied and acrhived... the problem is once its there I cant edit it... So I have to go threw Case and would have to have him unlock it every time... so I still need to fix some things and then it will get done...

Need to figure this injector swap thing and a few other things figured out first...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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Post by john doe » Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:38 pm

deleted for neatness
Last edited by john doe on Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
95 SOHC ATX Sport Coupe: 3.55 MTX swap, 2.4DOHC swap, SuperD brackets, twiztidklown1 filled mounts, Vitor bobble, Booger Bushings, Depo Projectors, Prothane bushings, KYB GR2's, AMM 90-less lower, Mopar ECU, Hedman header, AFX UDP, Crane springs/retainers, SS valves.

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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:07 pm

In my head that seems like it works... after looking at the sign waves...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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LilRed
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Post by LilRed » Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:43 pm

any chance someone can post pics on how to modify the cam sensor when using 2.0 cams instead of the 2.4

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Post by john doe » Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:47 pm

deleted for neatness
Last edited by john doe on Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
95 SOHC ATX Sport Coupe: 3.55 MTX swap, 2.4DOHC swap, SuperD brackets, twiztidklown1 filled mounts, Vitor bobble, Booger Bushings, Depo Projectors, Prothane bushings, KYB GR2's, AMM 90-less lower, Mopar ECU, Hedman header, AFX UDP, Crane springs/retainers, SS valves.

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PurpleNeon
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Post by PurpleNeon » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:18 am

LilRed wrote:any chance someone can post pics on how to modify the cam sensor when using 2.0 cams instead of the 2.4
It's the cam magnet, and it's stickied at the top of the engine swap board... this board. Complete with huge pictures.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=289563
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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:07 am

Yeah I knew I should have taken pics of that like 2 days ago when I did it... I have an extra thats on the 2.4 cams... I'll mod it for you guys, with a before after and then how to install them correctly in the head...

ON ANOTHER NOTE: I WILL BE ON VACATION TILL THE 22ND, I WILL HAVE MY LAPTOP, HOWEVER IM NOT SURE HOW MUCH I WILL BE ABLE TO GET ON TO MAKE CHANGES... I HAVE A GOOD LIST NOW GOING... BUT KEEP IT COMING LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU WANT.
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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Post by PurpleNeon » Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:34 am

You install them the same as any DOHC cams, just the intake cam gear is upside down, and the cam magnet gets rotated 90* CW. It's already both shown, and explained...
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Silence may be golden...
But duct tape is silver.
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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:06 pm

yeah but for the sake of the how-to being a little more compleate I will add it...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:56 pm

Ok guys made some more revisions inluding...

New oil-pump packing.

Revised injector wiring to new correct way.

A detailed how-to w/pics showing how to rotate the 2.0 cam magnet when using 2.0 cams.

A detailed mini-how-to w/pics showing how to fine tune your cams.

What else???

I still need to get out and figure out the 95 wiring harness and how to swap the pins on it... Give me a few days...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

sirvaliant_98
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Post by sirvaliant_98 » Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:01 pm

blackrhino i have a 95 dohc that i have done the pin swapping on. I didnt take pics of the process, but if you would like I can in the next couple days. let me know via pm.
CURRENT- 1998 acr platinum. Built 2.0 sohc, hahn super 16g.
SOLD-95 sport coupe MTX with 2.4L swap

Feedback:
viewtopic.php?t=224970

john doe
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Post by john doe » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:10 pm

I'm having trouble finding part numbers. Specificly the alt bracket stuff. I think they should be in the parts list near the beginning.
95 SOHC ATX Sport Coupe: 3.55 MTX swap, 2.4DOHC swap, SuperD brackets, twiztidklown1 filled mounts, Vitor bobble, Booger Bushings, Depo Projectors, Prothane bushings, KYB GR2's, AMM 90-less lower, Mopar ECU, Hedman header, AFX UDP, Crane springs/retainers, SS valves.

I8yourVtec
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Post by I8yourVtec » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:16 pm

please note the 2.4 dipstick..has to be slighty modded to fit with the 2.0 intake manifold.
2005-Flame red srt-4--Stage 2 w/ toys...many other mods
1995 Plymouth nyg acr coupe-- 1 of 63. For Sale- PM for details

WTB:RT or ACR transmission. Va,Nc or Md areas prefered.

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BlackRhino
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Post by BlackRhino » Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:25 am

john doe wrote:I'm having trouble finding part numbers. Specificly the alt bracket stuff. I think they should be in the parts list near the beginning.
The part numbers are purposely located at the bottom in the information section to unclutter the how-to...

10. PT cruiser alternator brackets.
These will allow you to mount your 2.0 alternator to the 2.4 block. You must use the 2.0 alternator.
Part numbers 4668445AA, 4891533-AA
I8yourVtec wrote:please note the 2.4 dipstick..has to be slightly modded to fit with the 2.0 intake manifold.
Will do... going to change a bit of the how-to in that section. To include to cut the middle support so the knock sensor is in the stock 2.4 location and to get the oil dip stick tube to fit properly... I'm going to the jy tomorrow to get some things to button up the front of my 2.4 so i can get some good pics from there what to do...
Have a Question about the 2.4 swap???
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202
LenAyala wrote: I think you need to work on your ADD as well. It'll keep you from blowing your car up.

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Post by CruzCorp » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:32 am

Just a question, but water pump and timing parts are the same from 2.0 to 2.4 or no?
The how-to says there are option in info section but none on that topic. Maybe I missed it.

Great Thread!!!

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PurpleNeon
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Post by PurpleNeon » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:44 am

Nope. All different.
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